Every other Friday there is a street legal drag event open to the public. Last friday was the last event for the season.

With my fresh motor i decided it would be a good opportunity to get some numbers down.



01 B18C5
6000 miles on rebuild with all stock components.
stock 81mm pistons
stock head and valvetrain
stock intake manifold and throttle body
stock flywheel and clutch
stock exhaust with bottleneck removed
stock computer
stock wheels with 195/55/15 Yokohama S-drive
Full weight with spare tire and tools

Mods consist of
-Comptech Icebox with Comptech filter
-98 spec JDM exhaust manifold with 2.5in JDM cat



As you can see i ran a horrible 60ft time. I couldn't get it out of the whole without a lot of wheel hop. Best results were from feathering it out at about 5000rpm but even then significant wheel hop was present.

If i would get my 60ft to a decent 2.2xx i should be able to pull 14.3. I feel the trap speed is about right with stockish ITR's

It was nice to do a little heads up racing but i don't think i'll go again any time soon.

 

I'd be happy with those numbers. I ran terrible, did a 15.4 @ 92 MPH. Traps for like high 14's, 60ft killed me. I was doing like 2.5/2.6 embarassing to say. I learned after those passes that I need to ride the clutch out more to cut the times down. Never had a chance to go back. I had a wiked exhaust leak, a short ram getting mad heat soak, G-Unit subs (2 12" kicker CVRs) in the trunk, a cooler, 2 fold up chairs... Yeah not ideal for the track but I didnt have anywhere to put the stuff while I ran.

 

Those numbers are fine. For test and tune nights the track is usually not prepared. This means that all those V8's are leaving rubber all over the track and usually you have to drive through the water puddle to get to the starting line = NO TRACTION. Your car will not perform as good going down the drag strip on a test and tune night than it would going down a normal city street. It's all about grip. Also, since you're only racing against yourself you could sit on a green light for a lot longer that .958 if that's what it takes to get out of the hole properly. Don't let the lights intimidate you and who cares about who's in the other lane. For the guy that ran 15.4 @92 those numbers are fine too but your mph is a little low which was probably caused by the junk you had in the car. Environmental conditions such as humidity, air temperature, sea level, etc all come into play. When I lived in Northern FL (Gainesville) my car was noticeably slower and ran like **** sometimes from the bad gas. The Type R is pretty gutless in a straight line race and of course are well known for easily getting into a dig. I think you've come to understand why drag racing isn't an easy past time. It takes a considerable amount of work, horsepower, torque, and TRACTION in order to shave a full second off your 1/4 mile time. A full second is HUGE in drag racing. The difference between 14.5 @97mph and 12.9 @ 117mph is a turbo and 8-10 PSI. Drag racing is COOL but not what a Type R was designed for. Take the numbers with a grain of salt and remember that you would pretty much OWN any of these straight line cars on a road course. It's all about application.

 

my best trap on the day was 97 mph
i know theres more in it i just don't have the desire to extract it.

 

14.5 @97 mph is all you would ever get on a stock ITR, on a perfect day with perfect track conditions and driving.

 

thats pretty good for a reasonable stock itr

 

The 1/8th mile mph is jacked. No way you do 79mph in the 1/8th and only 94 in the 1/4 on a clean run. 79mph=100-101mph trap speeds in the 1/4 all day long.

Other than that not bad. FWD's are hard to drag race.

 

Thats not bad. I did 13.3 @ 103 in my ITR. 01 JDM R motor w/ bolt ons.

 

drag tires?

i ran 14.6@97 mph all stock yeaaaaaaaaaaarss ago