Hello. I've got a few noob questions for you marvelous people out there.
I'm driving a 1990 cb3 (2 liter carb with 4 speed auto).

a) When I'm going at a steady speed and accellerating gently, I can sort of rev it 4-500rpm without gaining any traction. It's as if the gearbox is 'cluctched' - when it dumps the clutch I can feel it clearly. Seems to happen most frequently when I'm having to follow other cars at around 80-90km/h and have to readjust throttle all the time. Does this mean I should change oil and stuff in the gearbox, or is something broken, or maybe it's supposed to be this way? If not the last, can I fix it myself without sophisticated gear?

b) The black plastic things stuck onto the doors is starting to rust at the ends. I was told I could just remove them. When I do, how many holes and stuff would remain that needs sealing?

c) Is there a simple way to test if my fan in the engine compartment is working? Yesterday I was parked uphill in P for 5 minutes, and the engine temp indicator went off the charts. Dropped almost immidiately when I started driving again though. Thermostat most definetly works, but not so sure about the fan.

Hope you guys can help me out. My first Honda.

 

I'm taking a guess that 80-90kmh is about 50 - 60 mph for us USDM guys. do you feel the slip more towards the 80km range. At that speed the torque converter should be locking up and unlocking if you slow down some. when you accelerate again it locks up then you can feel the car move faster. when was your last service on the transmission and how many miles you have on the car? More info needed to help you on that part. As for the fan on your radiator. Check your fuses first, then your relays, A quick easy way to see if the fan works is to uuplug it. then connect a wire to the pig tail on the fan motor and on the other end connect it directly to the battery if the fan spins you know it works (no wrong way to hook it up, the worse you could do is reverse the polarity and the fan spin backwards) and it's something else in the system. Another way to check that is to cycle the fan. Start your car hold the rpms at or around 2,500 with the transmission in park when the engine hits normaly operating temperature the fan should come on. If the engine is cold it may take a few minutes, watch your temp gauge. I don't have a wiring diagram for the year accord.

 

I don't know when the transmission was serviced last. I know the car got some major servicing done in the second half of 2009, but the guy who sold it to me couldn't quite recall what had actually been done apart from replacing the belt driving the camshaft (google translates it into toothed belt, which sounds silly). Anyway, that was supposedly done at around 235.000km and the car's now done 265.600km. I've only had it for the last few months though, and all I've done is replace the braking tubes attached to the front calipers, repair the headlamp adjustment and widened the rear arches (to fit 225/45/17 tires).

On my way home just now I tried to find out where the event actually occurs. And what I found was that no matter what rpm, I would experience the 300rpm rise before it'd lock. However only between 2000 and 3000rpm was it noticeable. Specificly between 2200 and 2500 you can actually feel it as if you'd just dumped the clutch on a manual. At 4000rpm (around 150km/h) you can't feel it at all and it's only noticeable on the rev counter. What I did to see this was to quickly liftoff and reapply roughly the same amount of throttle I had when I was going at a steady speed. About a second later, I'd feel the locking in.

What would I do to check the torque converter and if nessecary replace the oil or whatever needs to be done?

As for the fan - it's dark outside now (9pm), so that'll have to wait till tomorrow.

A bit more details regarding the car can be see in this thread (I created before buying the vehicle):
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ighlight=neiro


Sorry if my explanations don't make sense, but I don't know the english names for all the technical stuff, and google isn't doing a very good job translating them.

Edit: Here's an image of the car in case that helps somehow:

 

Every few (3 to 5) oil changes it's a good idea to just drain what you can out of the tranny and refill with the honda ATF. That being said it is possible the damage is done if your fluid is really black/burnt or some joker put cheapo motomaster ATF in it.... Mitchell on Demand recommends lubegaurd for the honda tranny's when they have issues. I've never used the product so I can't say either way...

 

Okay. I'll replace the fluids next week just to be sure. Any filters or the like in the gearbox that needs attending while at it? (there's one on many Opel cars)

 

There isn't a filter for the trans that you can replace. There is a screen in it but the only way to get to it is rebuild the trans. So you'll just need to drain and fill. On the trans there is a drian bolt (3/8 square hole in the bolt). You'll drain from that bolt, fill thru the stick/hole where you check the level. As stated before if the fluid is really bad you'll need to do this a few times, drive a few miles in between.

Where are you located?

 

Thanks for this marvelous information.
I'm from southern Denmark.

Anyway we educate car mechanics at work, so I can probably borrow a lift there and just do it some day after work. And if not, my manta will just have to leave the garage for little while and I can do it there.