Hi,

My race car came with an OBX LSD, is working but I have some concern with it. I'm thinking of changing it for something else.

What are people using on there race car? Quaife? MFactory? etc?

Thanks,

Bolivar

 

#1- clutch type

#2- anything but OBX
https://honda-tech.com/forums/road-racing-autocross-time-attack-19/obx-lsd-buyer-beware-1249085/

 

I use an MFactory helical in my car. About 90% of the transmissions I build use an MFactory. Mix of Quaife, Wavetrac, Kaaz, and Mugen in the other 10%.

 

mfactory

 

Base on this OBX is a peace of SH....

In that case MFactory has a better price than quaife. Is there any difference to consider Quiefe over MFactory?

 

clutch type

 

Any reason why the OP should go with a clutch type and not a helical?

 

OBX is not a piece of sh**. But it is a piece of sh**.

You're just not getting the whole story. The casing, the gears and housing are all perfectly fine and functional. The problem with the OBX diff is that it is assembled by monkeys, pipe smoking monkeys who don't assemble it correctly.

If you want to save some money you buy the OBX diff (with plans to rebuild it), buy the correctly Belleville washer kit and OEM honda carrier bearings and voila, you have have a rock solid diff. I've been racing (and winning) with mine for 2 years.

Check out this site:
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread...hlight=obx+lsd

This site for the belleville washers and more How-To:
http://rbryant.freeshell.org/obx_washers.htm

Now you have a rock solid diff for under $400.

 

Edit: 7/20/2015. I was wrong... OBX Diffs are garbage even if you do the rebuild. Aquifina et al, are correct. The problem beyond the casting and hardware that I did not detect and didn't account for was the rotational runout. The excessive run out on my OBX diff caused premature wear on the ring-gear and pinion of my final drive. However the diff itself didn't fail, it did do the job.. but ultimately it resulted in me buying another FD when I wasn't planning to.

 

OK maybe the OBX is not that bad, but the question will be...wish one will give better traction going out of corners? OBX? Quaife? MFactory?

I know that probably a clutch type lsd will be the best for road racing, but I want something that does not need maintenance and special oils, etc.

 

rice classic. The OBX is cast. I can post pictures of now worthless OBX's if you'd like.

r wannabe. MFactory is forged and Quaife is billet. MFactory's runout is better than the Quaife. MFactory is cheaper. Actual short term performance (not longevity) of the Quaife and MFactory on track will be very similar.

 

1.0 way? 1.5 way? 2.0way?

Brand?

 

You do road racing? What do you have on your car?

 

DE's. MFactory helical. If you use a clutch type you'll want a 1-way.

 

see, now I was thinking that (1 way) but why would you not want any braking benefit. Aren't there plenty of ways to bring the steering around?

 

There's not much braking benefit on a FWD car for adding lockup. Ask anybody who's tried to road race a Mk5 VW. You want to free that front end up to turn it in under braking.

I don't know much about helical diffs on FWD cars, but I know people that race Mini's which come stock with a Torsen HATE it and immediately want a clutch-type. I know clutchers require service, but I've heard so many bad things about helical diffs that it might be worth some in-depth research. I also know that on our Camaro, the Torsen is GARBAGE. We have been working all season to try and get a clutch-type in there.

Do helical lockup equally on deceleration and acceleration? That's a problem right there. Don't they just work equally in both directions based on delta torque between the two wheels?

 

Helicals only work when the wheel speeds differ as you guessed. Split is equal until the torque changes (i.e. wheel spin and cornering). They work great in a FWD, but for racing a clutch type is the best way to go, especially if you'll be racing in the rain/snow/ice where the helical will not function (just as it doesn't function when one of the drive wheels lifts). A helical (MFactory, Quaife, OEM ITR, etc) function a little differently than a Torsen, but the principal is the same.

 

That's what I was guessing...

I used to own a Mini and it was awful in the rain. I just raced the Camaro at Trois-Rivieres in Quebec and there's a slow corner with a very slick patch of concrete right on the apex but only wide enough for one wheel. The car would basically free-wheel through there thanks to our diff. I figure it would be WORSE in a FWD car in the same situation.

 

But what setup changes would you make to a RWD car when moving from a Helical/Torsen to a plate style diff? I also suffer from some "one tire fire" coming off corners at autocross using a helical diff. I've been approaching it from a suspension setup point of view, trying to limit roll through larger front sway bars and higher front spring rates, as well as increasing the droop in the back, but so far I have not resolved the issue. I'm looking at possibly going to a plate/clucth style rear diff.

 

1.0way Kaaz

I also really like the ATS in a B series J's racing car i drove.


Nothing better then a clutch type for racing, so that's what I've run.


And the maintenance isn't bad, once a year i check and re-build it typically (a year being 10 race weekends).


"special fluids" Not much more special then needing transmission fluid. I run motul and it's about as easy to find as Redline....

 

IF I can choose all over again I might really settle with a MFactory 1way LSD instead of the Quaife ATB that I got now. That's if they did really make one for my Honda Fit back then. After I drove a civic with it I like the 1way even MORE!

Tough choice for me, if it's simply a track only car then no doubt it's gonna be a clutch type LSD in there. FF/MR/FR whatever it is.

 

For some reason the distributor of motul does not have transmition oil, but I think they are going to have it soon. Wich motul oil you have?

I currently run Redline MTL, if I change to a clutch type lsd should I change to some other spec oil?

 

You don't "need" special fluid for plate type lsd's. This is just a sales pitch from the lsd manufacturer, trying to force you to purchase their own branded oil.

What you normally run in your tranny (be it MTF, Torco, Redline or whatever) is 100% usable. You would only add some "friction modifier" if you can't stand the plate chatter (non-applicable on a track only car), or if you want to fine tune the aggressiveness of the plates.

For Motul, most use the Gear FF.

 

I've been looking into getting a plate type LSD but am a little scared of having to rebuild it every season.

I've heard that the Carbonetic Carbon Type LSD has a longer life then most regular plate type LSDs but a racer I was talking to a couple of weeks before had mentioned that it took a couple of laps to build heat and get the LSD to start working.

Does anyone know if this is true? Do the Carbonetic Carbon Type LSDs have a longer warm up period then most Metal Type LSDs? What's the life like on these compared to something like the KAAZ or MFactory in real world applications?

 

Listen to this guy, he clearly knows what he's talking about.


edit: 2015... once again, don't buy the OBX diff.