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D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

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Old Sep 7, 2010 | 09:18 AM
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osubckys06's Avatar
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Default D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

So I picked up a 97 hatch with a blown motor (bearing end caps shot thru the main).

also picked up a clean D15B7 block for free, and am using the original D16Y7 head from the 97.

everything is plugged in, and mounted.

I have fuel in the cylinders, and the motor is making compression (not sure on numbers, still have to do a leakdown test)

and I am getting spark.

The car is still not starting.

All I can think of is the ignition timing being totally wrong.

Any ideas?
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 12:46 AM
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Default Re: D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

Timing belt is on time?
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Old Sep 8, 2010 | 04:00 AM
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Default Re: D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

yeah def sounds like a timing problem
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Old Sep 13, 2010 | 07:57 AM
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Default Re: D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

UPDATE...

Cylinder 4 was making 0 compression.

I did manage to tear the head off in under 1 hour with basic hand tools

I'm worried the the valves may be bent on cylinder 4, as this was the cylinder that went on the original D16Y7 motor. punch the rod thru the block, and bearing cap went thru the oil pan.

when running the compression test, I can feel air escaping around the park plug well on cylinder 4.

as for the timing, it would appear I am off by 180*
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Old Sep 18, 2010 | 09:05 PM
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Default Re: D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

Update...

Threw the D15 head on today... and couldnt find the bolts for the distributor, so I used a C-clamp... Car starts, kinda runs, then dies.

Its idling way too high though.

sounds like around 3500rpm.

going back tomorrow to work on fine tuning the timing, and checking the throttle position sensor.
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Old Sep 20, 2010 | 07:31 AM
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Default Re: D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

car runs and drives now.

but the ECU is not getting a signal from the crank speed fluctuation sensor.

I had JB welded it to the D15 block after measuring the sensing distance from the D16 block.

Will an OBD1 ECU solve my jumping idle issue?
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Old Sep 23, 2010 | 08:12 AM
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Default Re: D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

Update again...

Bypassed the CKF sensor, got rid of the CEL but still had the jumpy idle.

Went back to my mechanic days, and checked the FIV... and it is shot. the valve keeps opening and closing without input from the coolant temp sensor.

I blocked off the valves 2 openings with a cut up aluminum soda can for now... Until I can order a new FIV assembly.
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Old Sep 25, 2010 | 07:08 AM
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Default Re: D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting

Originally Posted by osubckys06
Update again...

Bypassed the CKF sensor, got rid of the CEL but still had the jumpy idle.

Went back to my mechanic days, and checked the FIV... and it is shot. the valve keeps opening and closing without input from the coolant temp sensor.

I blocked off the valves 2 openings with a cut up aluminum soda can for now... Until I can order a new FIV assembly.
The "FIV" is known as the fast idle valve. It doesn't respond to any sensors, its fed by regular coolant. Its a simple plunger and is known to back out. When it backs out it will induce a large vacuum leak that will cause your idle to be excessively high. There is no need to block it off or order a new one. Remove the end cover plate and then take a pair of needle nose pliers and screw the end piece back into the housing. Replace the cover and problem solved.
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