D15B7 block, D16Y7 head in 97 hatch - not starting
So I picked up a 97 hatch with a blown motor (bearing end caps shot thru the main).
also picked up a clean D15B7 block for free, and am using the original D16Y7 head from the 97.
everything is plugged in, and mounted.
I have fuel in the cylinders, and the motor is making compression (not sure on numbers, still have to do a leakdown test)
and I am getting spark.
The car is still not starting.
All I can think of is the ignition timing being totally wrong.
Any ideas?
also picked up a clean D15B7 block for free, and am using the original D16Y7 head from the 97.
everything is plugged in, and mounted.
I have fuel in the cylinders, and the motor is making compression (not sure on numbers, still have to do a leakdown test)
and I am getting spark.
The car is still not starting.
All I can think of is the ignition timing being totally wrong.
Any ideas?
UPDATE...
Cylinder 4 was making 0 compression.
I did manage to tear the head off in under 1 hour with basic hand tools
I'm worried the the valves may be bent on cylinder 4, as this was the cylinder that went on the original D16Y7 motor. punch the rod thru the block, and bearing cap went thru the oil pan.
when running the compression test, I can feel air escaping around the park plug well on cylinder 4.
as for the timing, it would appear I am off by 180*
Cylinder 4 was making 0 compression.
I did manage to tear the head off in under 1 hour with basic hand tools

I'm worried the the valves may be bent on cylinder 4, as this was the cylinder that went on the original D16Y7 motor. punch the rod thru the block, and bearing cap went thru the oil pan.
when running the compression test, I can feel air escaping around the park plug well on cylinder 4.
as for the timing, it would appear I am off by 180*
Update...
Threw the D15 head on today... and couldnt find the bolts for the distributor, so I used a C-clamp... Car starts, kinda runs, then dies.
Its idling way too high though.
sounds like around 3500rpm.
going back tomorrow to work on fine tuning the timing, and checking the throttle position sensor.
Threw the D15 head on today... and couldnt find the bolts for the distributor, so I used a C-clamp... Car starts, kinda runs, then dies.
Its idling way too high though.
sounds like around 3500rpm.
going back tomorrow to work on fine tuning the timing, and checking the throttle position sensor.
car runs and drives now.
but the ECU is not getting a signal from the crank speed fluctuation sensor.
I had JB welded it to the D15 block after measuring the sensing distance from the D16 block.
Will an OBD1 ECU solve my jumping idle issue?
but the ECU is not getting a signal from the crank speed fluctuation sensor.
I had JB welded it to the D15 block after measuring the sensing distance from the D16 block.
Will an OBD1 ECU solve my jumping idle issue?
Update again...
Bypassed the CKF sensor, got rid of the CEL but still had the jumpy idle.
Went back to my mechanic days, and checked the FIV... and it is shot. the valve keeps opening and closing without input from the coolant temp sensor.
I blocked off the valves 2 openings with a cut up aluminum soda can for now... Until I can order a new FIV assembly.
Bypassed the CKF sensor, got rid of the CEL but still had the jumpy idle.
Went back to my mechanic days, and checked the FIV... and it is shot. the valve keeps opening and closing without input from the coolant temp sensor.
I blocked off the valves 2 openings with a cut up aluminum soda can for now... Until I can order a new FIV assembly.
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Update again...
Bypassed the CKF sensor, got rid of the CEL but still had the jumpy idle.
Went back to my mechanic days, and checked the FIV... and it is shot. the valve keeps opening and closing without input from the coolant temp sensor.
I blocked off the valves 2 openings with a cut up aluminum soda can for now... Until I can order a new FIV assembly.
Bypassed the CKF sensor, got rid of the CEL but still had the jumpy idle.
Went back to my mechanic days, and checked the FIV... and it is shot. the valve keeps opening and closing without input from the coolant temp sensor.
I blocked off the valves 2 openings with a cut up aluminum soda can for now... Until I can order a new FIV assembly.
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