Just recently dynoed my LSV and wasn't able to achieve the numbers I expected after researching the build. (186whp and 129 tq) Just curious if anyone had any ideas what I could do to break the 200+ hp range. Here's the build, any input is appreciated.

B18B block bored .25 over
Shotpeened and polished LS rods with ARP bolts
OEM CTR .25 over pistons and OEM rings
ITR oil and water pump
ITR oil pan and pickup
OEM rod and main bearings
Golden Eagle LSV Kit
Balanced rotating assembly

GSR open diff tranny
ACT 6-puck clutch
ACT Heavy duty pressure plate
ACT Street lite flywheel- 12.5 pounds i think

B16 head bowl blended
Skunk2 Pro intake manifold
Prof. Products 68mm TB (not port matched to IM)
Hondata intake mani gasket
3" short ram intake with 3" Blox velocity stack
AEM fuel rail
MSD 390 injectors
Supertech dual valve springs and titanium retainers
ITR intake valves
Pro 2 cams
Golden Eagle Adj. cam gears
Kidd racing header
2.5 inch test pipe into Greddy catback
Cometic headgasket
ARP headstubs

Tuned on S200, cams at 0 and 0, and 93 octane

My tuner said that his dynojet reads a little low, but how low I am not sure. The motor was also tuned with approximately 250 miles on a fresh build. I was told that it should make more once it was completely broken in. Third thing I was told was that the Greddy exhaust was very restrictive.

I am going to replace the Greddy muffler with a Vibrant muffler and add a glass pack to quiet the thing down. It is extremely loud and annoying. Other than the ehxaust and getting some miles on the motor, I really am really at a loss for what to do other than rip the head off, have it ported and polished professionally, have the IM p&p'd, and bore the tb side of the IM to match the tb. But I'm afraid if I do this I still won't yield the wanted numbers.

I've also been told to step down to a 65mm tb? I'm not sure what to do or if it is what it is? Like I stated earlier, any input is appreciated.

 

Are you sure that you are running pro series cams and not the tuner series? Did you take the time to measure your V2V clearances to know if 0-0 was safe for your cam settings? 0-0 should not have been your final tuned cams settings on either of those cams I mentioned. The Greddy exhaust is restrictive and should be a minimum of 2.5" or more. A CAI will net you better power than that short ram and your TB size is fine but if it's not port matched to the intake manifold, it will cause a lot of turbulence. Who did the "bowl blending" and when was the last time the head had a valve job, who did it and what kind of angles did they use?

 

idk....but i would think those cams should need a few degress seperation,from what i see on here the exhaust needs to be advanced more than the intake. i wouldnt be beating on it until i knew for sure, or you may end up with some bent valves!!! thats also why you may be down on power

 

00Red_SiR- I am sure that they are the pro2's as I bought them brand new in the package. What we were concerned about as far as adjusting the cam cam setting was the clearances with the PCT pistons. I paid a friend of mine to helpput the motor together, and while he is very Honda-savy, he doesn't always catch everything. This is my first build so I think I might have gotten a little ahead of myself. As for the exhaust, it is the Greddy 2.5 inch catback, so what I was going to do was replace the muffler with a vibrant muffler and utilize the mandrel bent piping as opposed to having an exhaust shop crush bend new piping.
The bowl blending was done by the guy who helped build the motor. As for valve work, the only thing that was done was to replace almost all of the components, ITR valves, supertech springs and retainers, and seals. As for an actual machined valve job, nothing was done.
I didn't think that the cold air would make that much of a difference over the short ram, which is why I went with it. However I will add that to my to do list of things to try.
Would the "turbulence" in the IM cause for a major loss in power as well?

4g hatch- As stated above, our concern was the clearances since the motor was not clayed.

 

Probably the most documented fact about using any of the pro series cams is that you can't usually run them at 0-0 cam settings. The number one problem most people run into with those cams is valve to valve contact, not piston contact. If you got lucky and ended up with some pro 2's like mine, you can just BARELY get away with a 0-0 setting but are literally an accident waiting to happen when you start adjusting those gears on the dyno. You need to measure V2V clearance BEFORE you run these cams or bent valves are often the result.

The valve job is one of the most important aspects of airflow on a head. If you replace everything you said and didn't have a valvejob done, I'm willing to bet that you're losing a lot of power there, assuming the valves aren't already bent. Do a compression test at minimum to see how things look, or a leakdown test if you have access to one and someone knows how to use it. More than likely that head will have to come off so you can do some work to it correctly and check the valve 2 valve clearences with those cams.

 

fastlittlecivic69
I was reading your build list and got to the end and was thinking 200-210 sounds about right for a dynojet. Then I was looking for you dyno plot and I realized you listed the values at the top of the page. Do you have the dyno plot to post?

Do the compression test and leakdown that 00Red_SiR suggested.
It is possible a better exhaust and CAI could get you to the 200whp mark. Maybe.
How does the car drive? Nice and strong or not so good?
Port match your IM to the T/B. You have a 68mm TB that is feeding a 64mm hole. NOT GOOD.

 

00Red_SiR- Thank you very much for your input. Taking the head back off was what I was thinking I was going to have to do. Just wanted reassurance that I wouldn't be doing it for nothing.

OH_1fstgsr- Thank you as well. The car actually feels pretty pretty strong. I don't have the dyno plots to post, but I can get them from my tuner and do so. For now I will be doing a compression test and do the intake and exhaust changes. If everything looks good I will take the head off, have the port work and valve job done. Then I'll clay it to check my clearances.

Anything else you would suggest?