ive always used 5w-30, it says it on the engine to use, ive always thought, used, heard to use it...but my helms says 10w-30...i seen a dyno where switching from NEW 10w-30 to NEW 5w-30 netted ~5 hp...whats the deal?

 

Nothing but 5W-30 since new in mine and the car runs fine. Granted, I have 28k on a 99 <G>. My dealer says stay with what Honda recommends in the owner's manaul. Did you know that the new IVTEC engine uses 5W-20.

 

5w-30 Mobil 1 for me. Come to think of it I need to change my oil.

 

when i ifrst got my Lude, i put Mobil 1 15w-50 b/c i owned a BMW previous to this and that's what I always used in it. then I realized that it wouldn't run as good with a heavy grade oil, so i switched to Mobil 1 5w-30, and have been using it ever since. now isnce i rebuilt the enigne, i am going to have to start using something else, real motor oil in 5w-30

 

i was using regular 5w30, went to mobil 1 synth 10w30 (felt a little laggy but A LOT smoother) went to mobil 1 synth 5w30 and lovin it.

 

10W30 only.

 

5w30 mobil 1 syn

 

Agip EuroSport Super Synthetic 5w50 5.1 qts

 

Use Moble 1 Fully syn 5w-30 is way to go, that's what i run and i love it, Or use 5w-30Genuine Honda Syn. Oil AKA Castrol Syntech full syn. Oil..

 

5W30 dino

 

5w30 synthetic Redline Motor oil, used mobile one before that.

 

I was using some crap min 5-30 and then swapped over to Mobil 1 Synth 5-30 and noticed a HUGE difference.
I don't think performance changed, but the car runs much smoother and is a joy to drive again!

 

5w-30 synthetic for me.

anybody else run this oil that burns oil kinda when in vtec?

 

5w 30 Royal Purple full synthetic

 

was using mobil 1 syth. but I would burn a qt of oil a every few weeks so I switched to castrol gtx

 

are you using the synthetic?

i see some burning of oil when I'm in VTEC with Valvoline 5w-10 syn.

 

Thats what I had till the guys at the dealership switched it to regular oil during my service. Now I have to put Syntec Blend before I can go back to full synthetic

 

see some qoutes i've compiled from PO.com:

1) "Honda Canada says it's normal to burn 1L/1000kms!!! How crazy is that?"


2) Oil consumption as high as 1 quart between changes (with normal driving) is normal on the H22. Where does it go?

Comsumption through PCV:
The H22's valve cover, despite the baffling, allows oil (vapor and fluid) to be ingested into the intake manifold and the intake plumbing through the PCV lines. This is often remedied by a valve cover breather on the intake side and a catch can on the manifold side. While you will still lose some oil, it will be captured in the catch can. The oil in the intake is not an issue except when boosted.

- Sludge formation:
Some oil is lost through the formation of sludge. If the cylinder wall temps go beyond the flash point of the oil, the oil burns and leaves a residue on the walls that is scraped off by the rings and then settles in the pan (usually sucked up into the filter). A way to rectify this is to go with an oil with a high flash point, which usually means synthetic (though some conventionals are good at this, too).

- Burning:
Some is lost through actually being burned, oil that makes it's way past the rings... either to become sludge or actually get burned in the chamber. This usually shows up as white smoke in the exhaust. This should only occur with significant ring, piston, or cylinder wall damage (usually requires new liners and rings and pistons).

3) "This may not be the case though for a lot of people that burn oil- if you have bad rings, or scored walls, no type of oil will "fix" that, though you can increase weight or change oils to reduce consumption. This is a stopgap, though, that inevitably will lead to other problems. "

4) "For the prelude the speculation is that there is 2 different OEM piston ring makers for a reason. One is good, one is bad."

5) "with city driving and lots I MEAN LOTS of redlining, I won't lose a drop, but since 95% of my mileage is freeway @ speeds of around 80 - 85mph and in 5th gear that puts me at 44-4700rpms CONSISTANTLY, I think it's normal I lose that amount since the engine is spinning so high for just cruising, this also brings into play all of the breathers on the valve cover that feed into the intake manifold, at these higher rpms I think it allows the PCV system to suck up a descent amount of oil into the intake manifold as it also gets consumed, so do any of you drive 80 miles freeway at these RPMs on your h22 like I do and see the same results?"

 

Use Castrol GTX 5w30..... Best oil to ever use for our cars. Why pay $30 for fully synthetic oil when it is going to burn thinner than regular synthetic oil. I have a daily driven turboed 5th Gen and I have used 5w30 for a year now and it has never burned oil.

 

Blue smoke. White is coolant burning.

 

yes, but why does the helms shop book say to use 10w-30 on h22?

 

I went to the Crower site and was surprised that they reccomend 20-50 with their cams. They do not suggest synthetic as they say it wears on the cams... I'm using Castrol 10-30 Syn... (Do not have cams in)......

 

I just emptied out my Moroso catch can. After 3000 miles, with lots of time in vtec, my can captured 2 ounces of oil/gunk...while my consumption was about 1.5 quarts. That said, I'm pretty sure the oil isn't going through the pcv system.

Now running Mobil 1 5w30...switched awhile ago from 10w30 and noticed less drag, so I stuck with it.


[Modified by Kool-Lude, 8:06 PM 9/24/2002]

 

What are you guys thoughts on switching oils? I have heard the argument that once angine has so many miles on it that switching to a sythetic oil is pointless.

Thoughts?

Should I switch to sythetic on my newly installed JDM H22A? I am pretty hard on it.

 

" Most major brand name petroleum oils perform adequately provided your driving conditions are normal and provided you change the oil regularly (remember, short city trips, driver’s ed track events, dusty conditions, and towing are considered extreme). Over the counter additives have been proven to be of little to no benefit, often do more harm than good, and are a waste of money regardless of what you drive and how you drive it. Finally, for those of you who drive your vehicle hard, tow a trailer, drive very short distances, sit idling and in stop & go traffic for long periods, live in a cold climate and/or if your car runs hot, quality synthetic motor oil, synthetic gear lube, and synthetic automatic transmission fluid is a wise investment that will provide the additional protection you require as well as last thousands of miles longer than conventional lubricants."