Ok, so i've got a 2000 Integra GSR. Bone Stock, 100%.

It has about 122k on it, and its starting to consume(burn) alot of oil... my dipstick and the amount of smoke behind me proves it.

I also did a compression test on it and one cylinder has about 155psi compared to the other 3 which were over 200psi.

I want to pull this thing apart and replace the rings and the rod bearings, and most likely send the head out to have new valve seals/guides installed.

My first question is can i reuse my old rod bolts? I'm planning to replace my rod bearings since i'm going to have to remove the pistons to rering them.

Second question is should i replace my main bearings and oil pump? I'm asking because it's not necessary to remove the oil pump or crank ro rering the pistons... not trying to waste anymore money then necessary.

I'm planning to keep the car for a little while and i dont know if the oil pump is something that fails on these often. this is my daily(however i do beat on her on occasion lol).

Third question is Where would you recommend getting gasket kits from?

Fourth question is where would you recommend getting rings?

Any help would be appreciated, i've never assembled a bottom end before however i'm more then confident i can do it(i've put together an ls/vtec, just didnt assemble the rotating assembly, and i've installed 3 turbo kits, numerous clutches etc...)

Want to get everyone's opinion as to how to go about doing this, my main question though is about the rod bolts. everything else i'm sure i can figure out its just nice to have others input/experience. thanks!

 

You have asked pretty much the same questions i have for my build. So are you going to skip honing the cylinders for the new rings?

Im just posting here so i can come back to this later, since i have the same questions.

 

no i was going to do a self hone on the cylinders.. you can buy a honing tool at any local parts store. This is my dd so i'm not too worried unless i find something i dont like and in that case it will be going to the machine shop..

But with that said, no body has any help on these questions?

 

i would leave the main bearings alone.
if you can do piston rings and rod bearings yourself, valve seals aren't too difficult. the valve guides should be ok as well.
you can't go wrong with oem parts, may even be cheaper than some a.m. companies.
if you are keeping the motor stock, i would reuse the rod bolts as well. i did the same rebuild a couple years back, and aside from all of the obvious seals and gaskets, reused the rod bearings, and bolts.

 

Honest question. How do you determine whether or not you can just rering, or if you have to bore and use the next size bigger pistons? Is 120,000mi not enough mileage to expect that much wear on the cylinder walls?

 

I always thought you needed to remove the crank so you can properly clean the block after honing?

 

I do mean when only honing also just so that clear. not just when boring.

 

You measure the cylinders and the pistons. If there is too much piston-wall clearance or the bore is seriously tapered or out-of-round, then you need to hone the cylinders to correct it and install oversized pistons.

120,000 miles on a well maintained engine shouldn't be a big problem, but 120,000 miles on a poorly maintained engine can be pretty ugly, especially if the engine hase been overheated or had oiling problems.

You need to remove the crank when you hone. Not only would it get in the way, possibly damaging the crankshaft, but if that grit gets in the crank or between the bearings, it won't be pretty.

 

i've never replaced valve seals nor have i ever seen any type of diy on it.. could you explain how its done and what tools are needed to do it? If its not that hard to do i'm sure i can do it myself.

I've only owned the car for the last 15k and i've kept up on oil changes etc on it, i'm not sure how it was taken care of before hand but i'll say that it couldnt of been too good because i dont think i would be loosing compression and burning the oil i am if it was.. my girl has a 98 and hers has alot more throttle response, power and is alot healthier then mine is and has more miles....

I'm going to examine the cylinders upon removing the pistons to check for any abnormal wear, cracks(which i think i would have other problems if they were there) and check them for roundness

I've never done a self hone before but i've got a few friends who have done it with success(i know people who have used the self honing tool with the stones and another who had one with ball bearing looking things on it and he used that to smooth out the cylinders.

If i remove the crank i'd probably be inclined to replace the main bearings as well and after reading what you said and actually putting some thought into it lol, you are correct with saying i should remove the crank before doing any honing to assure there is no contamination or possibility of hitting the crank.

thanks for all the help so far.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/i-will-making-12-2%22-4-piston-kit-97-prelude-104753/ valve stem seals
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-acura-28/revenge-pink-cadillac-124483/ bottom end
http://www.team-integra.net./section...?ArticleID=405 main bearing codes

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=113 plastigaging

that should do it

 

thanks for the help, anyone have any opinion on what type of rings i should use? and does anyone know if i can reuse my rod bolts and main bolts or should i replace them? if i replace the main bolts with arps does the block need to be align bored?

 

up for more answers

 

up for more insight

 

anyone have any input?

 

Can i reuse the stock rod bolts?

What brand rings would you guys recommend?

What brand bearings?

Would you recommend doing a valve job on the head? after doing some reading i dont think i'm going to replace the valveguides just the seals and i should be able to do that myself.

 

I just did a similar job on a friend's car. Except he went with P30 pistons and ARP rod bolts. I used a bead hone to hone the cylinders, and the crank was still in. Just rotate the crank til it's below the bottom rim of 1 and 4, hone those two, spray the cylinder walls and crank with brake cleaner, then rotate the crank and repeat on 2 and 3. You'll just polish the tips of the oil squirters a little bit. Btw, dont be afraid to use a lot of cleaner. The one I did broke in well, with no burning of oil, and runs really well.

 

Clevite bearing are good, and the stock rod bolts can be reused if they aren't stretched out of spec.

 

thanks for the response. when ordering aftermarket bearings how is it you know what size bearings to order? also with your friends setup is he just using a itr computer? or is he obd1 with a tune? i was thinking about throwing in slightly higher comp pistons and putting on a skunk2 im. but i need my car to pass md emissions and they will scan the car so i cant have it thowing codes... do you think it would read ok if i had a stock 2000 itr usdm ecu? or would they be able to tell that its not the correct computer?

I was told i could use the bead hone and keep the crank in by a few people, one is a mechanic friend of my dads..

This is just my daily but while i have it apart i figured for a few extra bucks why not give it some pep lol.

any info is appreciated. thanks!

 

bump

 

you would probably have to plastigauge the bearing journals i would let a machine shop do this, it shouldn't be too expensive

 

I"m in the middle of my rebuild as well. For the most i'm using all OEM parts. I've had issues with aftermarket seals leaking. Esp if you do any kind or racing / spirited driving. For reg DD driving (no racing etc.) aftermarket seals are ok.

Since yours will be a DD:

Reuse your old stuff, rod bolts etc. I'm doing the same thing on my spare motor.
Gasket kit - Napa seems to sell ok stuff. Not a big fan of Autozone and Advanced auto.
Rings - OEM seems to work best / work the longest.

 

i know you have to plastigauge them, what i was asking was is there any way to know from just the color code of the original bearings or would i still need to plastigauge and check them?

This is my daily but she does see a little abuse from time to time lol.. are you saying that you would buy a seal kit from honda? would a felpro gasket/seal kit be ok? anyone have experience with that?

I plan to keep this car for a while and would like this to last me. I plan to do the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, oil pump while its apart. and Put a clutch in it as well. I figured id replace the headstuds and might as well throw in arp's while its apart. I really wont know what size headgasket to get until i pull the head off and see what condition the cylinders are in. Hopefully its nothing a quick hone cant fix and i can use a stock 81mm headgasket.

You like all oem honda rings as well? they seal the best and hold the best compression?

 

{This is my daily but she does see a little abuse from time to time lol.. are you saying that you would buy a seal kit from honda? would a felpro gasket/seal kit be ok? anyone have experience with that? }

I use 99% OEM stuff for the rebuild. I suppose the felpro is ok. I like Honda OEM stuff, it works and holds up really well to my abuse. If it breaks i look for stronger / alternative stuff.


{I plan to keep this car for a while and would like this to last me. I plan to do the water pump, timing belt, tensioner, oil pump while its apart. and Put a clutch in it as well. I figured id replace the headstuds and might as well throw in arp's while its apart. I really wont know what size headgasket to get until i pull the head off and see what condition the cylinders are in. Hopefully its nothing a quick hone cant fix and i can use a stock 81mm headgasket. }

I believe the manual says when to replace the head studs due to stretching. I'd have to look. Also, i look for longevity as well.

{You like all oem honda rings as well? they seal the best and hold the best compression?}

Yes i like all OEM honda rings. It serves it's purpose. If they fail fast enough i will reevaluate and possibly look for alternatives. Otherwise OEM FTW.

 

well i guess now that i've got some input on some things i've got to price out the different gasket kits, rings, etc...

I never really got an answer on using itr pistons to bump the compression and skunk2 im and a usdm itr ecu? I need something that will have no cel's and will be able to pass emissions when they plug into the diagnostic port.

thanks!

 

So, i'm about to do a parts order... I need to get some last minute input from a few people as to their input from EXPERIENCE and not just what they have heard..


I'd like to know if I should buy the ARP Headstuds or new OEM Honda Headbolts?
Should I get an OEM Honda Headgasket or a Cometic?
What brand Gasket/Seal kit should I get?
Would you use OEM Honda Bearings or ACL Bearings?
OEM Honda Rings? or Aftermarket Rings?

I would like you to know that this car will be my daily driver, HOWEVER I do enjoy beating on it on occasion, taking it though some turns, and some rather 'spirited' driving from time to time... I'd like the parts to be able to handle this and be able to last me another 100k-150k Plus miles... I'd like to not have to do this again in the next 10 years lol...

Any Experienced Input would be much appreciated.. I have decided just to do an OEM build and not change the intake manifold and pistons as i stated earlier in the posts... I just want something I can drive that is reliable and still fun... The more I thought about modifying it the more I wanted to do so I figure its just best to leave it stock lol...

Thanks in advance!