Mugen 26mm vs ASR 32mm Rear Swaybar
Well wasn't really planing on upgrading the suspension but since ITR Expo might be here in CA might as well start. So my question is which one is better Mugen or ASR. If any other bar is better please let me know.
There really is no better bar, like there is really no better suspension.
What is better is what your needs are for the vehicle and what you want the car to do for you.
Now to define that, What do YOU want the car to do for you?
What is better is what your needs are for the vehicle and what you want the car to do for you.
Now to define that, What do YOU want the car to do for you?
So that's a good start you want one for good hadling, ok, do you want the car to stick or do you want the rear to come out a bit when cornering. In other words how do you want the car to rotate in turns?
I gotta go but I'll be back later.
I gotta go but I'll be back later.
Yeah it sure does hopefully I can figure out everything I need to know suspension wise before itr expo. Is there an FAQ where i can read up on this somewhere?
and yeah sure does suck chamber kits didnt arrive in time cars still on jacks has been there for two weeks now. oh good news though found two people that i have delt with in sells that own itr's that are considering about going
and yeah sure does suck chamber kits didnt arrive in time cars still on jacks has been there for two weeks now. oh good news though found two people that i have delt with in sells that own itr's that are considering about going
Drive on track first. If and when you need more rotation, then look at the RSB.
Otherwise, use tire pressure to your advantage. More pressure in the rear = more rotation to a point.
Otherwise, use tire pressure to your advantage. More pressure in the rear = more rotation to a point.
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Good point but I dont want to sit on it for a year. I would go out and track right now but I have no time atm going to school so cant right now. So ITR expo being around the corner and perfect timing say it will be in summer time frame I rather just wait till then. I also feel that itr expo would be a great way to start something Ive been wanting to do every since I got an ITR. So that being said I want to spend money on the car and rather spend it on suspension/braking upgrades then cosmetic things.
Listen to dave, you absolutely do not need a 26mm RSB. When you're first learning the car you're doing to want it as close to stock as possible until you're able to start pushing the car to it's limits. Then slowly start upgrading to suit your driving characteristics/limitations/etc. I would be using stock springs/struts as well, I know that's not a very california thing to do but this whole thing is a learning process and you won't be doing yourself any favors throwing on a set of motons.
Save your money on seat time, the mods are a total waste for right now. If you take heed to this advice you'll thank me later. Expo is not even set in stone for CA anyway, hit some local events first. Seat time will always be your most valuable mod.
Save your money on seat time, the mods are a total waste for right now. If you take heed to this advice you'll thank me later. Expo is not even set in stone for CA anyway, hit some local events first. Seat time will always be your most valuable mod.
Where is the in car of "Move Over" at VIR with Mugen RSB installed?
Rene, that part will TOTALLY change the driving dynamics of your car. If you have very little seat time, I would highly recommend spending the money on additional track time vs. a rear sway bar that will most likely just get you in trouble.
Rene, that part will TOTALLY change the driving dynamics of your car. If you have very little seat time, I would highly recommend spending the money on additional track time vs. a rear sway bar that will most likely just get you in trouble.
Where is the in car of "Move Over" at VIR with Mugen RSB installed?
Rene, that part will TOTALLY change the driving dynamics of your car. If you have very little seat time, I would highly recommend spending the money on additional track time vs. a rear sway bar that will most likely just get you in trouble.
Rene, that part will TOTALLY change the driving dynamics of your car. If you have very little seat time, I would highly recommend spending the money on additional track time vs. a rear sway bar that will most likely just get you in trouble.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R87O_xZF7ZM
whoa, that's the first time I saw that. I don't know if that would be my favorite spot in the world to spin given the speed you're carrying at the top of that. Either way I hope the OP is listening.
Yes, good old up hill esses + lift throttle oversteer + Mugen RSB = not a pretty outcome.
This video is a great reference for those who think they want a Mugen RSB.
Steve, that is NOT a very good spot to spin at all. Easily done at 100+ MPH
This video is a great reference for those who think they want a Mugen RSB.
Steve, that is NOT a very good spot to spin at all. Easily done at 100+ MPH
We're getting OT in fun talk. OP stay away from anything but the stock RSB for now. That money could easily be spent on a whole weekend, which will make you 200% quicker at expo right out the gate.
Yeah I am listening seems like I will be going back to stock suspension as well. That's going to be another week the R is going to be down... Unless I can find a stock ITR suspension by tomorrow. Anyways any difference between the stock usdm suspension vs. a stock jdm suspension?
98 spec R had heavier 16" wheels and a 23mm rear sway, so the JDM car springrates were tuned around that. The JDM cars also had slightly more rear camber in stock trim as well.
Put it simply, they balance out for the most part.
i'm trying to think of a simple way to put this. when you get enough track time that you start wanting the car to behave differently, more rotation, stability, less roll, just the ability to actually state what it is you want to fix, then you can do upgrades since you actually have a goal in mind of what to address. before this point if your suspension is stock or you have a koni/gc package or whatever, you're still learning to drive and hone in on keeping your lines and brake/throttle points. once that's second nature you start noticing the brakes, suspension and tires much more. if you're one of those guys who grew up driving crazy on back roads it won't take you long at all to get the hang of track driving. the biggest difference on the track is how uniform everything is compared to back road rally. on the track you practice the same circuit over and over. it's a different experience.
OP I'm not trying to still your thread but, I have a question that will help you as well.
What is the effective spring rate ratio thing that differs between the rear wheel to front wheel. I know you take the spring rate and multiple by 1.?? for each. I ask because was going to put the JDM 23mm RSB (I don't have one at all and their about the same price) and have heard that running a stiffer bar can have an effect on your rear effective spring rate? Thanks. I can start a separate thread if the OP will like.
What is the effective spring rate ratio thing that differs between the rear wheel to front wheel. I know you take the spring rate and multiple by 1.?? for each. I ask because was going to put the JDM 23mm RSB (I don't have one at all and their about the same price) and have heard that running a stiffer bar can have an effect on your rear effective spring rate? Thanks. I can start a separate thread if the OP will like.
IMO, Kevins spin in the esses began because he missed the turn in point of the first of the esses. Trying to fight and keep the car on track was also a no-no. But maybe in the end, the RSB prevented him from saving it.... who could really say?
Other than that, I'd say DaveB is spot on.
Other than that, I'd say DaveB is spot on.
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