Don't know if you can see it, but the Boot is ripped however..

There is little to NO play in it at all.

Recently, BOTH of my Upper Control Arm Ball Joints took a crap, and my wheel bearings, also took a crap on me. The car's front teetered on the borderline of falling apart so..this is the list of fixes..


2 x Front Spindles from 90-93 Acura Integra
2 x Upper Control Arm & Ball joints from 90-93 Integra (Don't ask me how or why But I don't have ANY Camber issues from doing this.


ORIGINALLY, the problem was an absolutely horrid amount of shaking under acceleration from both sides, and the handling was sketchy, unpredictable and wild, sometimes there was dead travel in the steering altogether. So after I repaired what was listed, the steering is perfect, never better, and the shaking went down considerably..but it's still there.

So I was thinking it's the axle, I know when the inner CV joint goes bad u get shaking under acceleration but here is the thing...If I feather the throttle? Nothing. Infact if I let it accelerate slowly, gradually, with little load, I can get as high as 100mph, and it WON'T VIBRATE. Only when I put load on it, considerable load on it, does it shake. I will also note that if I make a left turn, the vibration happens, not as intense though.

NOW..my front engine mount is going, in fact it's gone, and the bolt in the rear mount keeps sliding out. The rear is now tight, front mount is damaged...now the point..

Could the mounts be causing this vibration by allowing the motor to lean back to far, and mucking up the angle their on? Or is my axle shot? For once I don't have either part hanging around and i need to buy right, and buy wisely the first go around...any opinions would be appreciated.

Car is a 1991 Honda Civic Hatch, DX.

 

No opinions at all?

 

the motor mounts will let the engine rock back and forth, also check the bolts that mate the engine to the transmission. if they are not tight, it will also give you a vibration.

 

ripped cv boot=no grease...replace that ****

 

An engine mount is not going to cause the symptoms you described.

 

I personally hate 'fixing' problems,i.e....changing old broken bits for new 'exact same' bits that are guna get old and broken eventually anyway I preffer to sieze the opportunity and turn a problem into a big-*** excuse to buy new shiny race-ready bits new Hasport shafts and mounts (just to be safe you know ) and your laughing!
I do realise my solution is not the most financially advisable one.....but it means you get Hasport bits

 

Way ahead of you. The Problem was the Axle, and as for the mounts all replaced by stronger, more durable brand spanking new hasport replacements I picked up for 75 bucks. Car's vibraition free, handles like a dream and stops on a dime and i'm no longer hounded by that clunking noise between rolling and launching and shifting jeez..

Problem solved!!

I figured out, and I have to say for a Stock DX with DA-Upper control arms, SKunk2 Lower Control Arms & Tie End Rods, SK2 Coil Overs and as full front end Energy Red Polyeurethane Bushing Kit???? THIS **** CORNERS MAN, next step: ILL tire package.

 

you really put hasport axles on a stock dx?? whaaa?

 

lmao, no, Mounts man. 75 Bucks, they were a steal and are way more durable then the OEM's.

 

New mounts = Groovy
Hasport shafts on a DX = using a bazooka to kill a fly (I know you didnt do it but wudv been something to write about )

Guess when u checked the old mounts had the inserts just kinda broken down?

 

i gotcha...sooo you found a deal on some hasport mounts and used those instead. yea def better than crappy oem mounts..even new

 

They were on their way out, the Shell has 242,000 miles on it, the motor in there now has only 50K, but the previous owner informed me that he had swapped two motors into the car using the same mounts so they were gonna be on their way out. I beat on this thing harder then I do my built cars, and I remember hole shotting out of the Turnpike toll plaza on with a Probe GT and the front mount tore right away. So yea I replaced everything with the hasports, that + the new suspension + the energy bushing kit..things feels brand new..

Now I need good rubber and 2 more hammers to replace the rear rims I have on their now and it's good to go..I can put my N/A Ls-vtec build in here while the other one gets the H. Wanna keep this one looking as bone stock as possible, so after it's swapped...Tints, HID's, paint and i'm gone.