hey guys well here i go again struggling with my accord. first off:

94 Accord ex sedan
f22b1 5spd
little over 200k miles
no major engine mods just basic I/H/E

here is the loonng story, i drove my car for about a block away from my house when it just dies off on me in the middle of the street. I ended up pushing my car back to my house. First though was that the fuel pump gave up since I've read that they tend to give up after 150 k, but turns out its good. Then i thought it could be a short on my alarm that activated the kill start, but my car cranks. I changed the alarm relays anyways and still nothing. Next I check for spark and I didnt have any so I thought it was the distrubitor, replaced it and same symptoms. So then I called the local Honda dealer and they told me to check my check engine light with the key on to see if it turns off, if it stayed on my ECU was bad. With my luck my light did stay on and even after jumping the two pin connector it didnt flash. So I took out the ECU and one of the resistors is fried so no im sure thats my problem. so here is my questions:

is there a difference between auto and 5spd ecu and models (ex, lx..etc)?
does it have to be from a 94-95 or will a 96-97 fit too?

also i saw a prelude in the junkyard and I know that with h22 swaps you change the ECU aslo, would a prelude ecu work on my stock fbb2b1 engine? would it make a difference performance wise?


thanks alot guys

 

You can just solder in a new resistor if your board isn't burnt up.

 

the board is burnt up where the resistor was so i do need a new one.

 

well you need one for a manual trans, obviously, just match the part number up online and order a new one.

 

well im planning on getting it from the local junkyard, so it does have to be from a 5spd accord 94-95 only?

 

OBD1 94-95 5spd VTEC ECU. 96+ is OBD2.

How badly is the board burnt? Post pics. Sometimes they can be saved even when they look really bad.

 

oh yeah i forgot 96+ is OBD2 haha my badd

Well the board is pretty burnt around where the resistor was, it even made a burn mark on the metal cover. Here are sum pics, not the greatest but do the job. Oh and the ecu smells all kinds, even after 5hrs its been out of the car.

I'm getting another ecu from a local junkyard for $60, i just don't remember if its 5spd.

 

That's actually not half as bad as some of the ones I've fixed. However if you can get a JY one for $60 I'd go that route. May want to get someone you know that can solder to replace the 220uf Capacitor in your new JY ECU. They seem to be starting to burn up on a more frequent basis now. They are getting old!

 

cool, thanks GhostAccord, im going to the JY tomorrow to make sure its a 5spd, i know its a 95 vtec for sure though because I got the distributor off of it today, thinking that was my problem.

 

just an update, I got my JY ECU yesterday for $60 and my accord started right up. i got it off of a 95 accord vtec auto, so i guess it is compatible with 5spd car. i drove it around and i have no problem shifting or any problems what so ever. it even starts up faster, i had like a 3 second lag before. Im going to add a grounding kit to see if it helps out more too. thanks guys

 

everything works
speedo and everything. arent there sensors on the auto tranny that the 5spd doesnt have. i swapped my from a auto tranny to a 5spd and i needed to buy a 5spd ecu cause there are so many sensors that the auto has that the 5spd doesnt. but i have a 6th gen
when i did the swap my speedo and vtec didnt work with the auto ecu

 

yup on my 5th Gen all the gauges work and it doesn't seem like its on limp mode. It drives, idles, and shifts like before. I'm not sure if the speed cuts off early though,I've only driven it up to 65 mph but doesn't seem like it does. :-)

 

i have a P14 in my 95 5sp its chippd but works just fine but i also have my head shaved intake full exhast h23 TB. but i love it cuz the top speed limiter was takin out athe the rev limiter just gotta watch my right foot

 

Where did you get a chipped P14? Do you know what tunable parameters you have access to (aka, what kind of chip is it)? Is it just the rev limiter and speed limiter that were removed or can you actually take it to a tuner and have it tuned?