I took my 91 CRX si to West Bend Dyno Tuning today to get some baseline pulls. Dyno was a Mustang MD500.

Mods: Stock d16a6, dc 4-2-1 header, greddy sp2 catback, intake

Air/fuel was pretty safe but was jumping around throughout the pull. Thinking it went in between open and closed loop to correct for the ratio...any ideas?

121.4 whp @ 6325rpm and 106.2 ft-lbs @ 5630rpm






Air/Fuel is dark line

 

im not buying it.

 

factory wheel hp at new was only like 90-95 maybe and like 85 ft-lbs. you mean to tell me after 19-23 yrs of driving depending on the year of the car and with only adding a header and intake you gained 30whp and 20 ft-lbs??? I call B/S.

 

Fishy fishy.

 

mustang dynos are higher than a dynojet.

its about right. nothing fishy about it at all.

heres a dynojet plot of my stock A6 with similar IHE mods.

http://www.norcalcrx.org/dyno/tyson_1_3.gif

D16A6's are absolutely under rated from the factory. and once you ditch that choking 4-1 exhaust manifold it really opens up. thats why i advocate all it needs is a 4-2-1 manifold of any quality and brand. a Y8 manifold is just fine.

and its also a reason why the SOHC ZC's are rated much higher than the A6 eventho its the same engine. better exhaust manifold. no surprise.

 

I thought the mustang dyno read lower than a dynojet.

 

And I thought OP said it was a COLD air intake. :-P

 

Like Tyson said, this doesn't look all that far off. The only thing that surprises me is the fact that this was done without a catback exhaust. If that mod was stated, I wouldn't question these numbers one bit.

As a reference, here is my old H4 spec engine as a comparison.

AEM short ram
DC 4-2-1
2.5" exhaust with a couple Magnaflow resonators
Shaved head

 

Dynojet reads higher than a mustang dyno. Those numbers are really high for a mustang dyno. You need to run your car and get a trap speed to back up the numbers. Dynos are a tuning device and nothing more.

 

If numbers are legitimate...

 

its too much. if he said 110 i might have bought it. reminds me too much of an ls swap. maybe a tad short on torque... there are factory freaks however. i had an 88 iroc that had a 305 tpi 5 speed running 13.80s with minimal mods. the 350 guys were pissed...if it is true....cheers dude, you got a sleeper for sure.

 

i honestly was very surprised myself. it has a 2.5" greddy catback but other than that shes stock with 98k on the odometer.

 

As for your actual question I really doubt you'd be jumping through open and closed loop throughout a pull. I mean anything is possible but I doubt it. Your ratio isnt really that much of a up and down (a full 1 difference between the min and max) While in open loop your O2 sensor should read a wave that looks exactly like that anyhow (sine wave). Although it should be alot faster than that and require an osciliscope to see. With a car this old you're probably not going to be able to get a steady AFR without some good tune. Plus your power curve looks pretty steady without any drop offs. I'd say you're about as good as you'll get with a bolt on only engine.

 

really it doesnt matter too much what his base line power is, as long as what he does for mods improves it... you can get a dyno to read what ever you want depending on the information you give the computed such as air density, and temperature

 

here are some pics and a video of the pull











http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZHi5FbBpb8s

 

Very nice build. Those numbers are pretty damn high for a d16a6, good job!

 

Mini MEE!

 

soon my friend....

I recently purchased some goodies. I plan on tearing down the d16z6 and put some high comp slugs in her. I have a zex 59300, comp springs, 60mm tb and chipped p28 awaiting.

Still need to get the pistons, bearings, rebuild gasket kit, intake manifold (blox or skunk2) and some other stuff before i tear into it. Hopefully make around 140-150whp and maybe add a 50 shot on top of that, who knows

 

Numbers do seem high, But that;s not to say that they are false.
Because there are some factory fluke motors.
My buddy has a DA with a stock B18A1, LS Tranny, And an intake. Nothing more.

I had my 89 sedan with an LS swap. (b18a1 as well) We had the same motor tranny combo. I was running 2.25 manifold back exhaust with highflow CAT and a fart can.

He ALWAYS pulled me on the freeway. Every time! It got annoying. Then after popping that motor, he picked up one rebuilt from a noname shop and it wasnt near as fast. It was ware it should have been. Running with the other DA's.

When we pulled apart his blown motor... EVERYTHING WAS STOCK!

 

I buy it! For years ppl have wondered why I've stayed with my trusty ZC SOHC 1.6, it makes great power, and after 6 years of supercharged action, its still runnin strong. Never had any problems layin the smack down on Z6/Y8's, or even B18/B16's. As said in the above posts, its under rated, and in my opinion, still the best out of the D Motors.

Also, Mustang dyno's read lower, as they are optimized for mustangs accounting in factors for drag, weight, suspension, driveline loss, all that good stuff. Dynojets are preferred by most everyone else.

Congrats on the numbers, and if you wanna silence the naysayers, compare your 1/4 mile time to vehicle weight and do the math. It should all add up.

 

My old Mustang dyno'd 301hp and 330TQ on one dyno jet and 312hp and 320tq on another dyno jet SAE corrected.

 

My 105K 91 Si put down 125hp @ the wheels on a dynojet. Mods were nothing more than a DC 4-2-1, AEM intake, chipped OEM ECU and a custom exhaust with hi-flo cat. We did some slight tuning with an SAFC and timing correction to get there, but it was pretty simple stuff.

The a6 is highly under-rated from the factory. A little pnp on the head and a slightly more aggressive cam + some extra compression and these motors will put out respectable hp. I honestly don't even think a vtec head-swap is needed in most cases (plus it adds weight).

 

correct sir and yes that z6 head isnt needed vtec is overrated with these single cam engines. the a6 only needs a cam and it wil surprise many people. the head wont add much weight bro trust me been there done that.


OP could have saved your money on that z6 and put it into a cam which would have been better and even upgrading to a y8 or z6 IM would have been better. also work on your times cause they suck 16.3 come on bro you should be low 15's at least with bolt ons and a cam i was at 14.9 untuned.

 

This is true, Mustang Dyno reads lower numbers

The dyno of the OP must be at a good elevation....i live at 3600ft, and you'd be luck to break 100whp here with that setup

 

Wow. that is good information. What cams you recommend?

thanks!