Just trying to set my base timming before i do my turbo tune. At 0* (middle of 3 marks on crank pulley) my distributor is as far as it can go towards the fire wall.

Dont think this is normal. Engine is a d16z6 and im not sure wht the dizzy came off of. but the car has always run really well and good gas milage.

Setting timming with a 700.00 snapon light with digital advance and all that jazz.

I did jump the service connector but i am usinbg a p30 base. I have not copied over the timming maps from the p28(wasnt sure if i should do that.

I guess i havent tried setting my first 3 or 4 colums for the same timming setting either .

Any ideas ?

Thanks

 

up for answer!

 

If you set the timing light to 16 degrees, the white mark lights up right?
And if you set the timing light to zero, the red marks match up?

 

get it warm, then unplug the IACV, then time it

 

Yea at zero its on the middle mark. at 16 it goes to the white mark but is no pefectly on it.(i do for some reason have 2 white marks for advance)

I did let it warm up . but i will try the iacv trick.

I was just concerned that it had to be fully advanced to get to 16.

Thanks

 

if you are no where the middle of the slot, i dont mean perfect but close, make sure your cam timing is dead on. you may be off a tooth one way or the other.

 

My tuner set mine to 16 degrees

 

I would not do this. This SHOULD (assuming everything is operating correctly) put your idle around 500rpms +/- 50 which is too damn low. You should set timing at normal warm idle which in most cases is ~700rpms. You do need to bridge the service connector and make sure the heater blower isn't on, headlights off, no A/C, etc.. You should be in the middle of the travel on the dist leg as mentioned above. Since you have a Z6, you need the Z6 cam gear as well. I am not 100% but I think the Y8 and the Z6 crank pullies are the same. Also, verify your cam timing is correct, one tooth is worth ~12 degrees if memory serves me correctly.

 

I think your on to somthing here. I will check that tomorrow. Thanks

 

You sir are incorrect. By unplugging the iacv it drops the idle to 500, which puts it low enough where there is no timing adjustment made by the computer, thus getting the actual timing dead on

 

What it does is it puts it BELOW the rpm point reccomended by the manufacture for setting timing. Thus giving you an incorrect setting. That combined with the CEL you will then have causing the ECU to "ignore" certain parameters makes it the INCORRECT way to set timing. Do you see anything in the Helm that says to unplug the IACV to set timing? Nope, only to set idle. Consider me incorrect by your standards but I am correct according to the manufacture of the vehicle.

 

There are many manuals that state to set the timing that way

 

when i unplug my iacv my car just dies so i dunno how to do that i just fully warm it and jump the connector. but yes whatever you can do to get it close to 750 rpm. i still recommend jumping service connector so ecu dont adjust the timing while your trying to read it. i dont use a andvanced feature (i use 0 degrees advance) when i use my light, honda has marks for you already they are as follows


|--- | --- |---------------------------|
18 16 14 ................................ 0


AS far as colors hard for me to say i have seen diff cranks have different marks on them color wise. and i have had distributors that i had to drill out a bit i to get to 16 degrees still dont know the reason to this day. but 16 degrees rocks

 

Show me one thats backed by Honda, such as a HELM, that says to set the timing this way. Please.

 

Most of the time it WILL die. You have to disconnect the IACV and then work pretty hard at stabilizing the idle at 500rpms. The car is not meant to idle this low which is why I can't understand why someone would think this is the "correct" way to set timing.

 

Honda DOES NOT state to unplug the IACV.

 

just get a steady idle and it be the idle you will use into the future and set it from there. Its not THAT scientific.

 

well when my gun is at 0 its on the middle mark. when i put it to 16 its on the white mark ( i have 2 on my pulley for some reason).

Your diagram is confusing

 

The closer TDC mark is for the d16y-series engine. They run at 14 degrees to compare to 16 degrees on the older years d-series.

 

no its not thats what the marks look like in real life. but if you are on the center mark when your gun is set to 0 thet means your ignition timing is 16 degrees so your goood . and again i dont know which one of the timing marks has been painted white so colors dont help




after looking at that pic it makes more sence what you are saying. so heres whats going on, the white mark is 0 degrees. when u set the gun to 16 its suposed to hit the white mark, becouse teh gun is doing the 16 degrees advanced. basically 0 + 16 = 16. when i do my timing i set my gun to 0 and look for the 16 degree mark on the crank just a different way of doing it. but sounds like you are set to 16 degrees which is correct for anything but the y series (thanks da dude) i didnt kno of that

 

Cool. still concerned that the dizzy is all the way advanced it get to the 16*
Just checked the cam timming and it appears to be fine. I didnt have time to pull the crank pulley but i used a steel rod down the sparkplug hole to find tdc and it looked like the belt is a bit stretched but deff not off a full tooth.

Kinda wierd

 

12 degrees actually....

 

If the dist is a reman unit, they typically aren't 100% correct when the put the sensors back on the shaft. I went through 5 reman units trying to get one I could even get to set to 16 degrees once for my B series. It was annoying to say the least. Is the dist a 100% OE Honda unit?

 

hard to say . when i got the motor there was no distributer on it and a friend had one lying around . so who knows.

Car runs fine in boost. got 400km on it now daily driving and it seems fine......just no power above 5000 rpm. i was reallt hoping the cam timing was off lol . But it is running stock exhaust.

Thanks again for all the replies

 

How do you associate something as "Running fine in boost" and then make a statement that it has "no power above 5,000rpms".... Wouldn't that be "in boost"? Sounds to me like its not running correctly. Is this setup tuned? running a basemap?