Wanted something with a bit more style. So I built this one and put a curve in the bar to match the shape of the nose. I've never really cared for the traction bars with the straight bar. We've had it to the track, street flogged it and autocrossed too. Works just fine.











tacked up.

 

nice work!!

 

 

 

 

looks nice. ive been thinking about making a crossmember for my DA. can you jack the car up using the traction bar? and does it take away any ground clearance?

 

How much torque did you gain?
Great looking welds !

 

Great job!

 

looks great, as do your welds!!

 

I appreciate the kind words from everybody.

Bar ends are the same height as the oil pan. The header still hangs lower. Going to make a sort of "grind rail" from the bar to the back of the engine bay to protect the header. I suspect you could suspend the car completely from the bar. Like a Christmas tree ornament. It's well triangulated.

 

Looks good. On a side note, you coming for BOTI at Woodburn again??

 

Thanks man. Yep, comin to BOTI. There's a mid 9 in my hotrod hatch, I know it.

This Rex is my son's car. He's not so much into the drag scene, more of a road course or track car. A lot of the fabrication ideas we have for the car are going to be based around that use. I like a lot of his ideas. He's got a good build going.

 

what length of caster bars did use.?

 

It looks great.
What's the idea of these traction bars?

 

Not sure on the length of the radius rods. I'll have to check. I know we took length off of a 20" rod, and the ones I got from ETD where to short at 16". Thinking about it now, 18" would have been perfect.

For us in this build, to eliminate wheel hop. By eliminating the rubber bushings on the radius rods and hard mounting it all, you eliminate wheel hop. More traction.

 

thanks perfect im going to start on mine this week. i will post pics also..

 

wow that traction bar looks great!

 

 

I noticed that the big bar is not straight but a bit curved.does it make a diffrence vs a straight one like the F-R ones?

 

The curved bit was the important and intentional, design criteria for the design of the bar. We wanted it to match the shape of the nose.

As far as strength compared to straight. The most aggressive force on the bar comes under braking where the radius rods would be, in effect, trying to rip themselves off of the bar. This would pull the bar toward the back of the car (if it could move). As those radius mounts are only 6" or less from the hard welded joints, and that triangulation, my guess it that there is no way it can physically bend. and that's also based on material wall thickness. In addition to not being able to bend, the bar, if it could bend would have to force OUT the frame rails... not likely.

 

Good looking bar.

inb4willumakeme1 posts.

PS - Will you make me one?

 

That is a work of art!!!!! Very nice work.

I've been looking into traction bars for a few weeks now.

 

Teach me to weld and fabricate please. Looks great! Are there any downsides to a traction bar?

 

very nice, i like the curve you put in it. just curious, though... would it be better to weld in a piece of flat stock at these points to strengthen between the stock mounting locations and the added mounting locations?

couldn't hurt, right? assuming it wouldn't interfere w/ getting to those bolts...

 

old post is old... hope the OP located the radius rod mount points on the bar so as to be in line with the LCA's chassis bolt axis. Otherwise binding will result.