Negative Camber
I went to get an alignment today for my 94 EJ2 and was told that I needed a camber kit. I am no suspension expert so I was wondering with the following specs do I need a camber kit?. I just don't want my tires to wear out like crazy. Thanks.
i don't get why your initial camber angles, which were quite negative, were made even more negative for the final readings.
and why the hell do you have -3 degrees caster at your LF wheel?
and why the hell do you have -3 degrees caster at your LF wheel?
Your camber and caster is completely messed up on your front left wheel. Negative caster is not good at all. Find whatever is broken/bent and fix it. The rest of the numbers look fine, I assume the car is lowered a little?
What should I look for on the left side that is throwing my numbers out of spec? Do you think a bad UCA can be the reason why my left numbers are dramatically off? Thanks
Last edited by UrbanAdolescent; Aug 11, 2010 at 07:27 AM.
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camber kit is not a solution, its a cover up.
something is up with your FL suspension. worn balljoint, bushings, or bent control arm or knuckle.
a little car history would help determine exactly, but only taking a VERY close look would know for sure what needs to be replaced.
but really, your car will drive fine. no need for a camber kit. i would just be concerned about why the front left is so far out compared to the others.
something is up with your FL suspension. worn balljoint, bushings, or bent control arm or knuckle.
a little car history would help determine exactly, but only taking a VERY close look would know for sure what needs to be replaced.
but really, your car will drive fine. no need for a camber kit. i would just be concerned about why the front left is so far out compared to the others.
I bought the car a week ago for my younger brother from an elderly couple. Everything was stock on the car until I installed skunk2 pro c coilovers. Vehicle is clean title but I'll need to take a look on the bottom left siide for any visible damage.
is this a refutable alignment shop? cuz i'm still curious as to why they adjusted the camber even further negative. maybe the person working the rack didn't know what the hell he was doing. just a thought
Adjusting toe affects camber.
I agree with all of the others here...you might want to bite the bullet and replace the upper control arms, the lower control arm bushings, replace the lower ball joint - the upper comes with the new upper control arm - ...check the uni-body for damage and then make sure you installed the coilover kit correctly...meaning both side are exactly the same...might want to replace tie rods while you are at it.
All of those potential areas affect caster, camber and even toe...these are all safety related components!
I agree with all of the others here...you might want to bite the bullet and replace the upper control arms, the lower control arm bushings, replace the lower ball joint - the upper comes with the new upper control arm - ...check the uni-body for damage and then make sure you installed the coilover kit correctly...meaning both side are exactly the same...might want to replace tie rods while you are at it.
All of those potential areas affect caster, camber and even toe...these are all safety related components!
Last edited by meb58; Aug 12, 2010 at 04:30 AM.
Finally got to take a look at the FL suspension and everything looks ok except the UCA looks like this. Anyone have some input whether this looks regular? Thanks
sure, it looks a little tweaked. havent looked at a eg/dc recent enough to tell, but i do know theyre supposed to be symmetrical and swappable between left and right. and that doesnt look like it. but it could be the shading.
you could take it out and compare both sides...
you could take it out and compare both sides...
CAMBER DOES NOT I REPEAT DOES NOT KILL TIRES!!!!! toe killes tires
i have living proof a buddy has been running -6.5 camber in tha rear for about 4 months an tires look new still
if toe is good the tires wont drag while driving invest in tie rods an rear traler arm adjustments
i have living proof a buddy has been running -6.5 camber in tha rear for about 4 months an tires look new still
if toe is good the tires wont drag while driving invest in tie rods an rear traler arm adjustments
sorry, i thought they were. it does look like they have separate part number L/R. im not as familiar with EG stuff, the aftermarket **** ive seen looks like theyre symmetrical.
it actually doesn't. although adjusting camber does affect toe, this does not work vise versa.
this is because of the placement of the tie rod joint in relation to the upper ball joint
this is because of the placement of the tie rod joint in relation to the upper ball joint
Last edited by el crapitan; Aug 21, 2010 at 07:08 PM.
CAMBER DOES NOT I REPEAT DOES NOT KILL TIRES!!!!! toe killes tires
i have living proof a buddy has been running -6.5 camber in tha rear for about 4 months an tires look new still
if toe is good the tires wont drag while driving invest in tie rods an rear traler arm adjustments
i have living proof a buddy has been running -6.5 camber in tha rear for about 4 months an tires look new still
if toe is good the tires wont drag while driving invest in tie rods an rear traler arm adjustments
not to mention the havoc it wreaks on your bearings, which were never meant to handle lateral pressure
Last edited by el crapitan; Aug 21, 2010 at 07:59 PM.
I've probably done over 1000 alignments, If your toe is way out of whack like his was, it is going to affect the camber a little bit when you bring it back in, that's why his camber went from -2.8 left side and -1.5 right side to -3.0 and -1.7. I know its not much, just saying



