Hey guys and girls, I can't seem to find a rotor that's OEM fit that can put up with my pads, which are Dixcel (AP Racing) that I got from Hong Kong a year or so ago.

These pads are so aggressive that they warp top of line OEM replacements (not genuine Honda) within a few weeks of use. And no, I don't track, and I break them in with a series of progressively longer stops starting around 20kph.

Suggestions? Genuine Honda?

TIA!

Current pics of a few of my rides:

 

if they are a true track compound they

A: won't work till the rotors are really hot
B: are designed for the track where rotors are changed as needed

if you want a good street pad try the axxis ultimate or hawk hp+

 

They feel stronger than OEM even at low temperatures. Lots and lots of dust.

Maybe a good slotted rotor? I don't prefer drilled or cast holes, those rotors are noisy.

I might just switch to Hawk street pads, which I have on my G.

 

HP+ work great up front. I still have plenty of dust, but on resurfaced OEM rotors, they rock. HPS aren't bad either. They have less dust, but aren't as aggressive. I use them in the back. There are many combinations of good pads that people mention frequently. There was a thread on that not too long ago. Just have to search and find it.

 

HP+/HPS f/r also as recommended by BlueR

 

Your rotors probably aren't warping; they are accumulating uneven brake pad deposits on their surface. Proper bedding can prevent that, although you need to be going a lot faster than 20 kph to get the brakes really hot. Follow the procedure described in the technical white papers on the Stoptech website. And make sure that, after you have completed the procedure with your hardest stops, you don't touch the brakes all the way home, so you don't scrape off the uniform layer of brake pad deposits you've built up on the surface of the rotors.

 

Tirerack has a quick summary of different manufacturers' recommended procedures: http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/tech/....jsp?techid=85. It's interesting to see how widely they vary.

And I advise against PBR/Axxis Ultimates on a daily car that doesn't get cleaning on a weekly basis. The level of brake dust is way up there IMO. I also advise against your clear corners, but that's also in the IMO category

 

Not to be rude, but don't you think having a pad this aggressive is pointless if you don't track. It seem costly to keep buying rotors for no reason. I would definitely recommend a more mild street bad! Good Luck

 

ultimates are dusty........like really dusty and very aggressive on rotors for a street pad. like rotors are throw aways with one set since you will grind down a good 1/16th of the rotor. they are my favorite street pad though, the hp+ is another great one. i've been on ultimates for over a year and one thing i have noticed is they seem to outlive the hp+ in mileage.

 

the ultimate's create and insane amount of dust....like 2 days of normal use and the wheels are black...but they do stop the car well...

to the OP....try a set of real brembo blanks or slotted rotors?

 

Sounds like pads are the issue. Not the Rotors.
I use autozone rotors for track use and if they warp or crack, it is part of the sport.

<< Has 2 sets of pads & rotors. 1 for track use & 1 for DD.

 

duralast rotors here. 2 year warranty and just switch them out when needed.

 

I have the PBR Ceramic pads on all 4 corners. Maks crazy dust. Just driving home after cleaning, black everywhere. But they stop good.

HOw much you guys pay for the PBRs?

 

Thanks again for the advice guys, I'll look into stoptech's procedures and maybe give them a shot with another set.

I know I should of bought HPS or HP+ instead (I've got HPS on my G) but I thought at the time it would be interesting to try full race pads since they really weren't that much money.

As for the clear corners, yeah they are kind of out of date - they came with the car. I could just spray them orange.

 

From the StopTech site:

When a system has both new rotors and pads, there are two different
objectives for bedding-in a performance brake system: heating up the
brake rotors and pads in a prescribed manner, so as to transfer pad
material evenly onto the rotors; and maturing the pad material, so that
resins which are used to bind and form it are ‘cooked' out of the pad.

The first objective is achieved by performing a series of stops, so that
the brake rotor and pad material are heated steadily to a temperature
that promotes the transfer of pad material onto the brake rotor friction
surface. There is one pitfall in this process, however, which must be
avoided. The rotor and, therefore, the vehicle should not be brought to
a complete stop, with the brakes still applied, as this risks the
non-uniform transfer of pad material onto the friction surface.

The second objective of the bedding-in process is achieved by performing
another set of stops, in order to mature the pad itself. This ensures
that resins which are used to bind and form the pad material are
‘cooked' out of the pad, at the point where the pad meets the rotor's
friction surface.

The bed-in process is not complete until both sets of stops have been
performed.


Bedding-in Street Performance Pads

For a typical performance brake system using street-performance pads, a
series of ten partial braking events, from 60mph down to 10mph, will
typically raise the temperature of the brake components sufficiently to
be considered one bed-in set. Each of the ten partial braking events
should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration (about 80 to 90% of the
deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to engage the ABS),
and they should be made one after the other, without allowing the brakes
to cool in between.

Depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction will
seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade
somewhat by around the fifth stop (also about the time that a friction
smell will be detectable in the passenger compartment). This does not
indicate that the brakes are bedded-in. This phenomenon is known as a
green fade, as it is characteristic of immature or ‘green' pads, in
which the resins still need to be driven out of the pad material, at the
point where the pads meet the rotors. In this circumstance, the upper
temperature limit of the friction material will not yet have been reached.

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the
longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This
first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when all ten
stops have been performed - not before. The system should then be
allowed to cool, by driving the vehicle at the highest safe speed for
the circumstances, without bringing it to a complete stop with the
brakes still applied. After cooling the vehicle, a second set of ten
partial braking events should be performed, followed by another cooling
exercise. In some situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are
normally sufficient.


Bedding-in Club Race or Full Race Pads

For a typical performance brake system using race pads, the bed-in
procedure must be somewhat more aggressive, as higher temperatures need
to be reached, in order to bring certain brands of pad material up to
their full race potential.

We typically recommend a set of ten partial braking events, from 60mph
down to 10mph, followed immediately by three or four partial braking
events, from 80mph down to 10mph. Alternately, a set of eleven stops,
from 80mph to 40mph, or a set of seven stops, from 100mph to 50mph,
would be approximately the same. As with street pads, each of the
partial braking events should achieve moderate-to-high deceleration
(about 80% of the deceleration required to lock up the brakes and/or to
engage the ABS), and they should be made one after the other, without
allowing the brakes to cool in between.

Again, depending on the make-up of the pad material, the brake friction
will seem to gain slightly in performance, and will then lose or fade
somewhat about halfway through the first set of stops. This does not
indicate that the brakes are bedded-in, except where race-ready pads are
being used. This phenomenon is the same as that which occurs with
high-performance or street pads (except that, when race-ready pads are
used, they do not exhibit green fade, and they will be bedded-in after
just one complete set of stops).

As when bedding-in any set of brakes, care should be taken regarding the
longer stopping distance necessary with incompletely bedded pads. This
first set of stops in the bed-in process is only complete when the
recommended number of stops has been performed - not before. As a
general rule, it would be better to perform additional stops, than not
enough. The system should then be allowed to cool, by driving the
vehicle at the highest safe speed for the circumstances, without
bringing it to a complete stop with the brakes still applied.

After cooling the vehicle, a second set of the recommended number of
stops should be performed, followed by another cooling exercise. In some
situations, a third set is beneficial, but two are normally sufficient.

Racers will note that, when a pad is bedded-in properly, there will be
approximately 2mm (0.1 inch) of the pad edge near the rotor, on which
the paint will have turned to ash, or the color of the pad will have
changed to look as though it has been overheated.

In summary, the key to successfully bedding-in performance brakes is to
bring the pads up to their operating temperature range, in a controlled
manner, and to keep them there long enough to start the pad material
transfer process. Different brake system designs, pad types, and driving
conditions require different procedures to achieve a successful bed-in.
The procedures recommended above should provide a useful starting point
for developing bed-in procedures appropriate to individual applications.