I've search a lot trying to find an answer to this. The link in the faq that has the information on sway bars is very helpful but doesn't answer my question. I realize the easiest way to add sway bars to the front of my 96 DX hatch is to just get the EX/HX front LCA's but I'm doing this the junkyard pull a part way and currently they only have one 96 LX civic, but they do have 3 94-99 Integra LS's. Will the front LCA's from these integra fit my 96 hatch and allow me to run the LS front sway bar? If they do fit will I need the integra forks as well? What end links to use (EX/HX or the LS's)? Thanks.

 

No: 12mm vs 14mm bolts.

Stick with model specific parts.

Recommendation: get SI stuff.

 

The sway bar bolts up to the rear section of the front LCA. Buy the DC2 arms and swap the rear sections over - keeping your front EK half and adding a rear DC2 half. They are almost identically shaped and the rear compliance bushings are interchangeable.

 

That's a trick I didn't know yet

However the LS is only a 22mm, I'd still go for SI arms (one piece, lighter) and bar (26mm).

 

True, but with the LS you can choose HX/EX/LS/GSR/ITR. It's not always about fitting the biggest baddest bar on your car but tuning the suspension by trying out different diameters and setting it up the way you want it. that way you're fitting the car to your driving and not the other way around.

 

thanks, yeah I'm not looking to be an autocross star just trying to make the drive a little more fun plus it'll only be a 45 dollar investment for both arms and the bar for the front. Should I use the LS endlinks and frame bushings or the EX/HX?

 

You must use the Integra/EG style endlinks, and stuff an EK compliance bushing up that LS hole.

Phunhaus, I completely agree with you. However I find a 26mm up front on an EK a 'basic requirement' for 'fun' and 'spirited' street and semi-track driving. Honda thought too since they put it stock on the SI, EK4 and 9 (CTR). We'r not talking about 'big ***' 32 rear bars (while stock is 13/15/22).

I swapped my 22mm front sway for a 26mm, and although for the moment the car is strictly speaking out of balance due to my rear bar not being mounted yet, the diff is great in any sence of the word.


- kristo, whose front is tight but whose *** is shaking

 

Hero: This is a write up I did years ago about sway bar compatibility that shows the three different endlink mounting styles. Get the appropriate one for the bar/arm combo.

http://www.jdmuniverse.com/forums/view_ekswaybars.html

I know it's not 100% technical but I wrote it so that more people could understand it in simpler terms. Please don't send me hateful PM's about it simplifying ideas or not going into extreme detail.

 

No I was using your write up and its very good actually. I was just unsure because it says when using EX/HX arms and I was going to use the LS ones. Could I use the back section of 92-95 Civic arms like the LS portion you mentioned above? Thanks for all the help its been awesome. Also is it possible to use 92-95 Civic rear sway bars with 99-00 Si endlinks or are they totally different?

 

The EX/HX are the same as the LS arms as far as the mounting hole goes.

The 92-95 and 99-00 rear endlinks are different. Depending on the arm you're using (OE vs. Aftermarket) you may want an EG/DC2 or 99-00 Si endlink.

 

You can use dc rear sway bars on 96-00 so I have no clue why you wouldn't be able to use eg rear.
But you will need to get 99-00 si hardware and endlinks. Also get the correct size sway bar bushing for sway bar

 

D'Oh. I forgot we're talking about an EK. Yes, you'll want to use EM1 (99-00 Si) endlinks for all factory and *most* aftermarket sway bars. Thanks for catching that 98civdx.

 

I don't agree.

EG/ITR rear swaybar mounting holes are tube-like which are too deep for an SI type endlink bolt to clear fully.

Also EG/ITR swaybar mounting holes and endlink bolts are 8mm while SI type endlink bolts are 10mm.

When using EG/ITR swaybars on EKs (which I don't recommend) aftermarket endlinks should be used, featuring long enough 10mm bolts. The use of ASR swaybar-endlink metal bushings is needed for good fitment of the 10mm bolts.

The common use of EG/ITR swaybars on EKs in the US is I think due to the lack of availability or price of CTR bars.

 

kristo got it, i forgot to add youll need bushings to use them.

CTR bars can be kind of tricky to find at a good price, i belive JHP or someone sells them. Chances are a speed shop or something will be able to get them. I was quoted $90 for a brand new CTR, but i know the owners so...

EVen then, after useing blox adjustable end links, i would prefer to use them over OEM.
They wont last nearly as long though. I broke 3 Honda end links so i have a slight issue trusting them.
The price is good too, i highly reccomend them.

 

This should be due to some element in the setup not being right, like being too low (binding), too soft springs (stress), non-EK saybar (geometry), incorrect geometry due to aftermarket arms, things ...

 

Everything you said is true. Oem 99-00 si sway bars front and rear. 10k/8k lowered to tight 1 finger gap all around, all factory parts, es sway bar bushings,
No aftermarket arms or anything.

Brought it up so he is awear he isn't limited to factory endlinks

 

I'm gonna quote you on this

Thought so. Should be OK...

Have you tightened the endlink nuts under load (like suspension bushings)?

 

Haha ok.
Sure did, everything was installed correctly.

 

Ok thanks for all the help, you guys are awesome. I don't ask many questions on here but mainly answer wiring questions for swaps. I went to the pull a part today and found that 96 Civic and it had a front sway bar! Awesome! the car was a 96 LX 4 door so I'm assuming its the same as the 96-00 EX/HX as written in the above sway bar link. I also picked up a 95 LS rear sway bar as well with hardware (I'm assuming to get this to work I'll need the 99-00 Si hardware). I got front/rear bars and front lower control arms for $40! So hopefully it all goes well other wise I'll put them on craigslist or ebay. I'll let you know my progress, problems or whatever. Thanks again!

 

Why would you need to tighten them under load? They're a ball-in-socket so nothing should bind. If it's a rubber bushing that's bonded to the inner or outer race you've got a point but not with a spherical or ball-in-socket joint.

 

Well, for two (intertwined) reasons (talking about OE SI links):

1. it's so specified by Honda in the manuals (page 18-9 note 4)

"Before tightening the upper and lower mounting nuts on the stabilizer link, adjust the location of the link with the suspension under vehicle load"

2. these ball joints have only a certain effective turn-angle (meaning you cannot turn the connecting rod like more than a third or so of a full circle around the bolt). Had new ones in my hands and tried out turning them so I know. So if the link should be tightened with suspension at full droop whith the connecting rod at the end of its working angle it could be that with the car being lowered the rod should want/need to turn even more beyond its workable point, evidently creating stress on the joint.

At ride heigth the rod should be in the middle of its radius (working angle). So with the arm moving up/down when driving its full radius is available. At full droop one end of the radius is reached, so if the link should be tightened at full droop with the rod at the other end of the radius, when the car is then lowered the rod would want to turn beyond its radius end.

The connecting point endlink-swaybar is most prone to this (experiences the most turning).


One could want to interpret the note in another way but I wouldn't know how. In any case reason #2 stands.


Pic below is not in effect a Honda endlink but it illustrates the working:

"Range of motion of the ball-in-socket constrained link design"



(Where this pic comes from: ) it's like arms and legs connecting to shoulders and hips: restricted movement radius from a ball-in-socket design.


*edit*

I knew there was more on this page (18-9): check the lower left bottom, where it says concerning the ball joints:

"Before tightening the flange nut, position the ball joint Pin in the middle of its range of travel, with the suspension under vehicle load"

Also note the drawing depicting the radius.

It says the same on the rear page 18-22.

This says it all. What note 4 then actually refers to I have no clue.

 

You want aftermarket spherical endlinks and in any case the ASR swaybar metal bushings (see other current topic '96 EJ6 Hatch Rear sway bar possibilities?')

Check my post^^

Check also swaybar? concerning back subframe reinforcements.

BTW a 95 LS doesn't/didn't exist ...

 

. . . but I own a 1995 Integra LS.

 

Dumb me I only checked Civics

So that would be:

#52300-sr3-A01 13mm for: Civic 93-95, CRX 92-97 and Integras LS