hi im new here and i own a honda prelude 92 and wanting to make it faster and better in handling what do you advise me to do????

 

h23a motor w/ LSD tranny
koni/ground control suspension

 

H22A red top.

 

depends on what kind of racing you gona be doing really

 

?????

 

Get an H22a or H22a4

 

I wouldn't bother with the hassle of OBD2 that goes along with the H22a4 or either of the red tops.

 

There are 4 different red tops.

So your recommendation is an OBDI black top?

 

Yeah, the red top H22's are over priced and it seems unlikely that if you went all motor with a black top and a red top using the same parts the red top wouldn't make any more power. Also in terms of durability, closed deck>open deck.

I guess though if he wants to keep the motor stock and has money to burn the Euro R full swap would be the best.

 

Some red tops have a port&polish. Some red tops come with 11:1 pistons. That alone will give you more power. Sure you can do a P&P + pistons on the black top, but by that point, you will have spent the same amount as purchasing a red top. Doesn't that defeat the purpose?

 

Pistons, p&p, camshafts, intake manifold, and Euro R trans gearing plus LSD! It would cost a whole bunch of $$ to match part for part of a Euro R.

 

H23a vtec has a good bit of power stock, but its harder to swap in than just an h22.

 

Well for one you cut out a chunk of words out of what you quoted from my post...

I didn't mean build the blacktop to match the euro r, that's a waste of time to take a motor apart to gain so little. I meant building both motors using forged pistons, aggressive cams, rebuilt valve train, a real header and exhaust and having a CR of 12:1 or higher. If someone were to rebuild both motors with the same parts you most likely wouldn't come out with more power with the red top, it only has more stock for stock.

 

True. I read your post again, now I understand your angle. Sorry bout that. A lot of guys think the Euro-r is over priced. But I think it really is a factory built work of art.

 

I don't think this applies to the OP's question. However, the question was quite vague, so who knows.

 

if your fully building the motor.. no point in grabbing the type s really as the end result will be nearly the same, just stick with a 93-95 h22, they are all obd1 and will plug right in.. just wire in vtec, its one wire pass it through the firewall to the ecu and your good to go. If your keeping it stock or doing a semi-build with a lot of head work and want the best motor for base then yea.. id prob deal with the odb2 issue and grab a red top... If you dont know what i just said, you have a lot of reading to do. spend a few months on the forum and read read read before doing anything to the lude. research is your friend. If you dont know what it is, look it up!!

but anyway, h22 swap is a good way to start, much better base than an h23. Not that you cant make great power with an h23.. but they make more parts and overall its just more fun to drive imo, ive owned 4 h23's and i just swapped my first 95 h22 swap from japan in and i have to say its nice compared to the h23, stock. and even nicer turboed. If you can get an odb1 h22 with the h22 type s tranny with LSD, limited slip differential in it, thats the way to go. most hondas put most of the power to the right front tire, with an LSD installed both tires will spin, putting more power to the ground. You can have all the horsepower in the world but if you cant use it theres no point. Good tires are a must. Honestly, the first thing i wish i did when i bought my prelude was build the transmission. Get an OBX or Quaiffe LSD, Carbon coated synchronizers, a light flywheel like an 8lb fidanza flywheel and a decent clutch. I like the stage 2 competitionclutch, very close to oem so its drive-ability in a daily driver is excellent.

If you have nothing done to your car, grab a cold air or short ram intake, cat back exhaust system, a test pipe to replace the catalytic converter (unless you have to pass emissions in your state, then get a high flow cat or make a friend who can pass you..shhh ) and a nice set of exhaust manifolds, or headers. dont cheap out and get name brand on the exhaust and u will be happier with the end result.

a good cheap entry suspension setup would be some Eibach pro springs and some blue tokico struts. Traction bar will help out and also stiffen the front end a bit. 3 point firewall strut bar for the front. removing a/c or power steering helps a little, but dont just take the belt off the power steering it needs to be removed or it wont handle right. you could block off the egr valve (if you dont have to worry bout emissions). grab some suspension technique sway bars for the front and rear, that will make a huge difference. Replace all of your upper and lower ball joints if it has not been done, get some nice energy suspension bushings kit for your car, and some energy suspension engine mount inserts.

If this is your first car build then start small and work your way up, especially if your not used to driving anything fast. do all of that and you will have a fast ride for a while.. then later down the road ull get used to it and want more, then comes time to upgrade, then do it over again and so on and so on. Ive seen a lot of people spend a bunch of money and get their cars built and install a turbo kit for a bunch of horsepower ,jump right in and try to show off then dont know how to drive the car and handle it and get hurt and hurt others. its always best to work your way up. Its been 4 years since ive been working on hondas and there is always more to learn.

 

Is he doing a V-6 swap?

 

f22 for boost

h22 for n/a

 

depends on what he wants if he wants pure top end...if hes doing quarter mile or road racing as in where his power band should be...get what im trying to say?

 

So... Is an H23 better for road racing? And an H22 is better for drag racing?

 

well im not a fan of vtec motors personally i would rather torque and mid range over top end waiting for vtec to kick in so personally i would say yes i would rather have an h23 in a road course *hint* why i own one instead of jumping on the h22 banwagon

 

It's not a bandwagon. It came in my car.

The H23A1 has the same peak torque as the H22A4.

 

Maybe similar, but what makes the difference is where the torque is applied. The h23 has a much better mid-range torque

 

I used to have an H23a1 and yes dyno graphs show its peak torque coming about 1k earlier but both motors have such a wide, flat torque band anyway I actually don't notice much of a difference. I didn't like it because the falloff was noticeable until 5500 where vtec would be there to take over. The only motors I'd imagine not feeling anything until vtec kicked in would be the smaller displacement B series and even once when I rode in an DC5 it felt weak until about 6k.

 

tq get's you around town like to the mall......
hp and tq wins you race's........
in stock trim the h22xx motor will rock a h23/f22 non vtec motor all day even if they have the same tq or if it comes at a lower rpm.....in other words who cares about tq down low.........


now if you want argue all out motors (12.0.1cr or more) then a vtec motor means nothing at all...
a non vtec motor can perfore just as good

but stock for stock a h23 non vtec motor is only better than a h22 motor in getting the car around town too the mall.....or if you only race in 1st gear...........to win races you hp and tq not just tq below 5000rpm