ARP Head Stud Question Searched
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2007
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From: Midlothian, Va, USA
ARP Head Stud Question Searched
Hey Guys, here's my motor setup first:
d16a6 block
z6 head
arp head studs
I have a question about the ARP head studs I installed in my motor; please keep the flaming to a minimum as I do enough self-flaming over this as is, and this was my first and basically unmentored build. Unfortunately, when I built the motor over Christmas break, I was under pressure and did not take as much time as I should have - my dad wanted it back together before I left... I was unable to get all the head studs even, and hindsight being 20/20 I think I should have had the bolt holes chased... I know some of them definitely were not where they were supposed to be because they were a good distance higher than others, and I used channel locks to get them low as possible, stripping the black paint off one of the studs in areas. I also never retorqued after the first heat cycle, so I feel like I've left a significant amount of care out of the build. Obviously, if I was not seeing oil coming out of the mating surface on the passenger side of the block I would not be worried, but since I am I am trying to figure where I went wrong. I reused the studs I bought when I did the mini-me in summer 2008, the engine failed in summer 09, and I reused them in the build I got running when I came home from school this summer. I'm wondering if this could be causing a loss in compression, so as soon as I get my hands on a compression tester, I will do tests on all four cylinders. This weekend I plan on getting a new z6 head, as I was going to do a bunch of work while leaving the current one on there so I would have a car in the mean time. So my question is, when I get the new head going, is this a good plan of action?
1) Have block checked to see if I warped it; chase bolt holes.
2) Have head checked for warpage, resurface as needed.
3) New ARP head studs, follow instructions a little more closely.
4) New headgasket.
I'm really kicking myself for this. When I did the rebuild I wanted to have it completely cleaned up, no leaks, but this has turned into a bit of a nightmare for me, atleast in terms of my goals. I am going to be taking much more time the next time through, and not rushing ANYTHING. Thanks for the advice in advance.
d16a6 block
z6 head
arp head studs
I have a question about the ARP head studs I installed in my motor; please keep the flaming to a minimum as I do enough self-flaming over this as is, and this was my first and basically unmentored build. Unfortunately, when I built the motor over Christmas break, I was under pressure and did not take as much time as I should have - my dad wanted it back together before I left... I was unable to get all the head studs even, and hindsight being 20/20 I think I should have had the bolt holes chased... I know some of them definitely were not where they were supposed to be because they were a good distance higher than others, and I used channel locks to get them low as possible, stripping the black paint off one of the studs in areas. I also never retorqued after the first heat cycle, so I feel like I've left a significant amount of care out of the build. Obviously, if I was not seeing oil coming out of the mating surface on the passenger side of the block I would not be worried, but since I am I am trying to figure where I went wrong. I reused the studs I bought when I did the mini-me in summer 2008, the engine failed in summer 09, and I reused them in the build I got running when I came home from school this summer. I'm wondering if this could be causing a loss in compression, so as soon as I get my hands on a compression tester, I will do tests on all four cylinders. This weekend I plan on getting a new z6 head, as I was going to do a bunch of work while leaving the current one on there so I would have a car in the mean time. So my question is, when I get the new head going, is this a good plan of action?
1) Have block checked to see if I warped it; chase bolt holes.
2) Have head checked for warpage, resurface as needed.
3) New ARP head studs, follow instructions a little more closely.
4) New headgasket.
I'm really kicking myself for this. When I did the rebuild I wanted to have it completely cleaned up, no leaks, but this has turned into a bit of a nightmare for me, atleast in terms of my goals. I am going to be taking much more time the next time through, and not rushing ANYTHING. Thanks for the advice in advance.
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