I just got back from the strip. I have an 89 ef hatch with a b16a and y1 lsd tranny with an itr 4.475 gear. the motor has ctr cams and pistons skunk2 valve springs and retainers supertech valves aebs intake manifold aem rail and reg dc 4-2-1 header with a 2 3/4 inch exhaust that dumps before the back seat and iceman short ram and exedy flywheel and N1pully it has a pr3 and a vafc.its untuned I messed with the vtec engagement it seemed to like 4700 fuel pressure is set a 55 psi at WOT. It ran a best of 15.51 at 91 mph going through the trap at 8200 in third it would bang the limiter just as i crossed the line. im not happy but im not disapointed eather. I know I need more seat time this is the first time to the strip in 7 years my best reaction time was like .112 I was leaving the line at 3000 to 3500 it had a small amount of wheel hop but the front tires suck. what would you guys sugest as my next upgrade other than tuning because I know I need it tuned

 

You should convert over to OBD1 and then get your car tuned.
The PR3 + Vafc isn't going to support your cam profile. Timing and A/F is Key.

 

to get rid of the wheel hop, you will need some stiffer engine mounts.

 

^what he needs is an aftermarket traction bar.

and of course a tune lol.

 

fully built 2 liter like whats in my car and a itr trans with a 4.7 final drive

 

key question: what was your 60' time?

 

With that high of fuel pressure on a N/A setup, you're probably a lil rich, unless the vafc accounts for that. If you're not converting to OBD1, invest in a wideband or dyno time to set the vafc correctly. I personally don't like em, but to an extent, they work. As mentioned, a true tune will "Wake Up" that setup. What gas were you running and did you do any adjustments to timing as well, or is it set to stock?

 

a set of track tires should DEFINATELY be your next upgrade unless you wanna just run on drag radials

 

so do I need to chang the inserts on my hosport mounts. I have a place racing front crossmember. my 60 foot was in the 2.1 to 2.2 range witch I think could be brought down to 1.5. The reason the fuel pressure is at 55 psi at WOT is because when I got the car it was set at 25 at idle and 35 at WOT i read that 55psi would give me a better spray pattern for better fuel atomization on a stock injector. It has stock cam gears on it that and a 62 or 65mm throttle body are the last two parts I think I need before I get it tuned. I was running pump 93 but I didnt bring an extra can so whan I go to the gas station I had to fill it up my passes were made with a little over 3/4 tank

 

I was wrong my 60 foot times were all in the 2.4 range my best reaction time was .119 the last 2 runs were 15.51 and 15.50 at 90.4 I tried shifting into 4th for the last 100 foot. I could still feel it pull. I think with some more track time and a lower fuel load it could get in to the high 14 range the way it sits. with better tires and a tune low 14 or high 13

 

cut your 60' down to 2.2 and youll see 14's (theoretical)

 

The high fuel pressure might give you a better spray pattern, but won't help if it's running overly rich in the process. Switch back to 36-38 psi static with the vac line off the regulator at idle and make another pass. That's should be something you could try at the track.

 

Your trap speed of 91 is a good indicator that you are not making the power you should. Get the car tuned before throwing parts at it.

 

I know I need a tune but there isnt anywhere around here to have that done. You have to know someone that knows someone that thinks he might know a guy that can tune it. The olny other parts I want/think I need before I have it tuned are cam gears and a 62 to 65mm throttle body. I can try droping fuel pressere and see if the trap speed comes up. What kind of times should this setup run would it be good for a low 14 run

 

You think that his problem is being to rich so you want him to remove the vaccum line from the regulator and INCREASE the fuel pressure to max? I definately don't think he has any issues with his fuel pressure. Just because someone didnt run as fast as they thought people start looking for "fixes" to a engine that he thought was running perfect before he got his #'s posted.

 

OP also, get rid of that "short ram intake" if anything you actually decreased your power with that. Either get a full TRUE cold air intake or put your stock airbox back on. All you did with that is increase the hot air the engine picks up. short ram intake= hot air intake

 

I have ran 15.4 at 90 with a '90 Civic Si that still had original D16a6. Had full bolt ons which included Skunk 2 exhaust and short shifter, DC Sports 4-2-1 header and an Injen SRI. My buddy has a CRX with stock B16 swap and he usually runs around 14.6-14.8 on street tires.

 

I was cutting 2.20 through 60ft though, that helped my times a lot.

 

Not sure if you know how the FPR works, but you have to pull the vacuum line off to set it at static (idle) correctly, you then RE-CONNECT it back and make a run. Even if you drove with it off, you're only going to pull in a tiny bit more air, and at full throttle, the differnce the map sensor will see is insignificant, car will idle a few hundren rpm higher. Not to mention, having the vac line off the regulator will not give you a huge increase in pressure. The regulator will only max at what it's set at, which in the case here was a static pressure of 55psi. Thus my original reason of trying the pressure that the ECU is originally factory tuned to.

As for the short ram, if it's over 75-80 outside, it will make ZERO differnce having a true cold air. Dyno proven that for every 10 degrees cooler you gain 1hp. And those few hp you could gain, they are as easily lost from other miniscule factors.

 

Several years ago I had a EF hatch with a very similar setup except I had the stock B16 pistons, chipped OBD-0 ecu and Mickey Thompson drag radials.
I was very inexperienced in launching the car but ended up with 1.9-2.0 60ft
times and ran 14.6-14.8 et's. Slicks and a good supporting clutch would be great. If not, then a good set of drag radials and more practice would be also beneficial.

 

So......85-90+ degree air is the same or worse than 150+ degree engine bay temperatures? Hell I can print you off a dyno graph that says a pipe I invented will add 15hp, hell.....people acutally believe in GROUNDING KITS. A "short ram" intake is one of the absolute most backwards "mods" you can do.

 

I have not seen anyone ask this, but what is the elevation you are running the car at? That makes a huge difference on your times. When I used to run my Honda at the track at 3800 Feet of elevation I was not real happy with my times, but when I took the car with the same setup to a track at sea level I would run a half second faster. I would get the car tuned and get better tires and a traction bar.

 

I had a 91 si with a b18a1 with cai and header and a buddy ran a 15.1 in it.

 

The track is 935ft above sea level. I think I just need more track time the times were coming down but we got rained out before 8pm I olny got 10 to 12 runs in and really all I was wanting to do was work on my reaction times since it had been a couple years not going to the strip. the way my short ram is setup its very close to the back of the head light and my filter has a cone in the middle of it I figured it would pick up cool air coming around the head light.

 

i went last sunday with my b16 ef. ran 14.3 in the 1/4 @ 101mph. my buddys em1 with his stock b16a2 ran 17 somethin lol he was pissed. of course it burns oil like a ****