Alternator Problem?
My car couldn't start this morning. I got new battery, new starter, new dizzy, new water pump/timing belt/tensioner, new spark plugs/wires, changed fuel filter couple days ago.
Car started once i got home.
Did the battery test, got a 12.63V when car is not started, and 13.89-13.43V when started with AC/lights/radio on, I turned off my AC/lights/radio and got 14V.
There is fuel going to the engine.
So my dad did his own test by pulling out the negative from the battery and the car kept on running, and he told me that it should've died out.
Couple days ago when on the freeway, i notice that my car sometimes struggles and my RPM would drop a bit when on gas and sometimes I've got 300-400 low idle at a stop.
No CEL either.
And I've notice that after finish with work, while my car is under the hot sun, it has a rough start, I'll probably resolder the main relay to fix this problem.
My car is a 1995 civic LX auto with 120,XXX miles on it.
Please help! Thanks!
Car started once i got home.
Did the battery test, got a 12.63V when car is not started, and 13.89-13.43V when started with AC/lights/radio on, I turned off my AC/lights/radio and got 14V.
There is fuel going to the engine.
So my dad did his own test by pulling out the negative from the battery and the car kept on running, and he told me that it should've died out.
Couple days ago when on the freeway, i notice that my car sometimes struggles and my RPM would drop a bit when on gas and sometimes I've got 300-400 low idle at a stop.
No CEL either.
And I've notice that after finish with work, while my car is under the hot sun, it has a rough start, I'll probably resolder the main relay to fix this problem.
My car is a 1995 civic LX auto with 120,XXX miles on it.
Please help! Thanks!
Also, when i came home from work today and the car started up easy. So i just let the car idle while i did the testing then i turned the car off and when i started up the car again it struggles to start. Then i let it run for another ten minutes and turned it off and again it was harder to start.
Check your timing advancement by the distributor. Sounds like you have a few issues I had a while back. I'm still having the starting issue though. Do you have to wait for the fuel pump to prime? When you turn the ignition to ONI it turns the radio on, ONII turns on the accessories and primes the fuel pump, START turns over the motor. When you are on ONII, do you have to wait for the fuel pump to prime? That's the main issue I'm having. I have to wait for the ONII to prime the fuel pump. I have a new main relay, and when the car is warm it starts right up.
I dont have to wait for my fuel pump to prime and i am getting fuel into the engine.
One thing i notice is that my exhaust sounds like its back firing.
One thing i notice is that my exhaust sounds like its back firing.
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I've researched resoldering the main relay... It honestly looks like a pain, just get a new one. Honda updated all their main relays and have stronger solders OEM style (hence the new part numbers).
yeah i wouldve gone that route if ive seen loose contacts, even though i have experience with soldering.
The backfiring suggests that the ignition timing is off or the engine is misfiring. Check the ignition timing with a timing gun. Did you install OEM plugs, wires, cap, and rotor?
Your alternator voltage output is a little low. Without load, you should read about 14.5V across the battery posts and it should not drop below 14V under load.
Your alternator voltage output is a little low. Without load, you should read about 14.5V across the battery posts and it should not drop below 14V under load.
The backfiring suggests that the ignition timing is off or the engine is misfiring. Check the ignition timing with a timing gun. Did you install OEM plugs, wires, cap, and rotor?
Your alternator voltage output is a little low. Without load, you should read about 14.5V across the battery posts and it should not drop below 14V under load.
Your alternator voltage output is a little low. Without load, you should read about 14.5V across the battery posts and it should not drop below 14V under load.
I bought a brand new dizzy last year, along with NGK V-power plugs and non OEM wires.
My alternator reading without load was around 14.2V but never below 14V, and with load was about 13.89 with 13.33 would be my lowest reading.
Would you suggest to change out the alternator? I've got 121,xxx miles on my civic.
Ima check my ignition timing tomorrow.
I bought a brand new dizzy last year, along with NGK V-power plugs and non OEM wires.
My alternator reading without load was around 14.2V but never below 14V, and with load was about 13.89 with 13.33 would be my lowest reading.
Would you suggest to change out the alternator? I've got 121,xxx miles on my civic.
I bought a brand new dizzy last year, along with NGK V-power plugs and non OEM wires.
My alternator reading without load was around 14.2V but never below 14V, and with load was about 13.89 with 13.33 would be my lowest reading.
Would you suggest to change out the alternator? I've got 121,xxx miles on my civic.
How do the spark plugs look? Have you inspected them recently?
Sorry OP for the threadjack... but I want to catch Ron while he's here... I've seen you posting around HT and you seem pretty knowledgeable with these cars.
I have a starting issue and I am stumped on it. Help please?
I have a starting issue and I am stumped on it. Help please?
Spark plugs looks normal. Will be going to Napa tomorrow to have the alternator tested.


