well guyz yet again im back. Check it out this time. It was time to change my clutch because my old one was slipping. I went and pulled the tranny and changed the clutch, resurfaced the flywheel and got new everything. clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearring. Changed it out and went to start car. while car is on the car goes into all gears no prob except for reverse. no clutch goes in all but i have to step on clutch for reverse and when i let go i hear like it rubbing trying to grip but nothing. i look at the fork for the slave and it moves and has awesome pressure from stepping in clutch but y the hell does it go into gear without the clutch. everything was perfectly fine before i changed out the clutch. only reason i changed is cuz it was slipping please. guyz i need this **** running asap. its a b series hydraulic. i have a six puck act clutch and pressure plate.

Please Help me anyone.;
Feel free to call me 813-220-3061

 

i ran into that issue when i my buddy didn't put my axles in right, he set them in place right but didn't get the snap ring set

 

Thanx for ur input but i dont have to push my clutch in to put it in gear while car is on. That is my problem.

 

car goes into gear no problem. I can put it in first and get out and try to spin tire and wont budge. put it back into neutral and it spins fine.

 

The clutch pedal may need to be adjusted.

 

nope tried that. i would assume u needed to adjust the pedal if it didnt go into gear at all.

 

no1 else? 1 person on this site. r u serious lol. thanx anyway

 

A misadjusted clutch pedal could prevent the clutch from either fully disengaging with the pedal down (difficult to shift) or fully engaging with the pedal up (possibly your problem).

 

thanx for ur in put but i can move the slave to the point where its not touching the pressure plate and the car will stlil go in every gear without stepping on the clutch.

 

So yea the flywheel was cut too much and they didnt even it out on my 2 step clutch. I had it cut to oem spec and stil the same thing. Nothing has changed.

It cant be throw out bearring because the cat is still as if the tob is clutch on the pressure plate but its not. its a brand new mc and i have it all way out to give the more pressure but its not affecting anything. The car stays disengaged. regardless if the clutch is pressed or not.

Clutch cant be put in wrong as the springs and such will hit the flywheel. everything was torqued fown to spec also. Clutch was aligned. Remember ive taken this trannsmission off like 9 times in 3 days thinking i have done something wrong but its the same thing over and over.

I have tried 2 different clutches and same thing on both. The one im using now is the exact same part number and clutch as my old one that was worn out.

Still stumped over here...........

 

maybe your flywheel is cut too much.. you said they cut it too much, but then you got it cut to oem spec.. if it was cut too much to begin with, how can it be back to oem spec? i wanna say you need a new flywheel...

 

I have a type of flywheel tha is called a 2 step. When u cut it u need to cut it in 2 different areas to get it the factory spec. First time i got it cut they only did it on the top part and not the second step so i got it cut again in both and made it so its the factory spec now.

 

had this on a friends d15 turned out his flywheel wasy turned so many times it was 2MM thinner then a new one and it wouldn't grab at all.

also try turning the clutch disc with the alinment tool befor you put the trans back in if it doe this is bad.

then make sure the release fork is not binding on the input shaft of the trans.

also there should be No free play on the release fork to the push rod of the slave cylender.

also try doinf a bleed on the slave it may be holing the release for forword a little.

if the push rod from the peddle to the master is not coming back far enuff it will NOT release the pressure from line and will hold the slave from coming all the way back

the car Most likely Doesn't Have a LSD in it SO make sure BOTH axles ar all the way in if one is out the car wont move at all.

not trying to be an *** this is just a list of things i check at work when this happens.

Most All hondas have a Step in there fly wheels. Now if thay ground the fly wheel for the first part the whole thing would be flat till thay ground the center down .065 to make it in spec. and have the step it needs but it you had NO engagment with a flat fly wheel you will have Less with it steped.

also What Car is it?

does it have a idel shaft fro the drivers side CV if yes did you pull it and if so did you put the axel back in?
Have to ask cuz i had a customer tow in his car from another shop cuy thay tied the axel up above where the idle shaft for the drivers cv went and couldn't figure why the car wouldn't move after thay had just putin a new tranny.

 

its a 2000 gsr. The flywheel doesnt have a step and it was turned to .112 witch is factory spec.

The clutch will not budge when trying to turn it with an alignment tool.

The fork that hold the tob is not stuck on the pp once so ever. I even held it away from the pp and had someone turn on car and the car still went in all the gears.

There is not enough pressure holding the sc in.

car does not have lsd. If i have a motor in mid air and turn it on with out the axles in it it will go into any gear when ever? The axles have to be inside the car for it to not be able to go into gear without the clutch?

 

^OP, I may have misunderstood your problem. If the car does not move when you rev the engine with the transmission in gear and the clutch pedal up, then one of the axles is not inserted fully into the transmission. Both axles must be fully seated into the transmission for the car to move.

 

Yea i got that point boss but will both axles put into my transmission all the way make a difference when i can put my car in gear witout clutch?

 

Yes, if an axle is not fully inserted, the gears could be changed without pushing the clutch. Just check the axles.

 

I made sure both axles are in and still same but another thing i tried was to put it into gear and step on brake to see if motor will shut off from stall and it did.......... but once again i put it into gear without the clutch........ when i put it in reverse the wheels spins backwards and in every other gear they spin forward.... so its going into gear fine........

I think ive tried just about everything other then another transmission but i dont know anyone that has one laying around that i can borrow real fast.....

 

Well tried a different flywheel and same thing. here is a vid of me inside the car reving up as if i was driving goiing thru all my gears without the clutch and also there is a vid of the car in first gear and i give it gas and watch ho the rotor speeds up. its getting power i guess u can say.

 

It was my flywheel. Car drives nice. got to jack it back up and finish putting everything in now. ****ing right doggy

 

So what was wrong with the flywheel?

 

im having a similar problem i have an automotive class and with my flywheel we used like a scotch blue drill bit and cleaned off the surface of the flywheel and now i can put the car in gear without the clutch

 

I fixed my problem lastnight. After further deep under the car, dr shaft wasnt fully locked in place.

Check that

 

hey so your car went into gear without clutch pedal. ? And then it worked when you installed the drive shaft?

 

Yes, once i popped the shaft all the way in, everything worked fine!