Hey,

I'm currently in the planning stages for a ST class EG hatch. From what I can see the EF guys are running a Redshift chip or something similarly simple. Do such options exist for EG's? Most of what I've seen is Hondata/Crome/Neptune which are potentially overkill and in a grey area for legality. Thanks

-Nigel

 

That redshift chip is the same thing as running Hondata or eCtune. Except that they are probably using TurboEdit or some other OBD0 ROM editor to program the OBD0 (88-91) EPROM chip.

If running a modified/chipped ECU isn't legal in the ST class, this redshift chip isn't legal. If it is legal to run a modified ECU then you need to get a chipped OBD0 ECU and tune it with TurboEdit or have a base map made from a reputable tuner. Redshift's prices are a bit steep for their chipping services.

Look at Xenocron.com for some OBD0 ECU tuning options.

Or you could ship me your ECU and I'll chip it for you.

 

"1. Reprogrammed ECU (via hardware and/or software) may be used
in the standard housing. Traction control parameters may not be
altered. Altered engine controllers may not alter boost levels in
forced induction engines. Alternate software maps which violate
these restrictions may not be present during competition, regardless
of activation."

This is the rule, and I've been told the Hondata is out because it doesn't all remain in a stock ECU housing (Something about a blue box?). Another thing to consider is that this is just a D15 that will have I/H/E and an underdrive pulley as this is all the rules allow for. So I don't need any crazy amount adjustability, something just to help get a bit more out of it. Thanks

-Nigel

 

If your running an EG chassis (92-95) and you are required to keep a stock appearance OBD1 ECU you could run a Hondata S300, eCtune Pro w/Demon or a Neptune RTP w/Demon. Both of these options are concealed inside the ECU case.

If you can get your hands on an old Moates ostrich and hulog for cheap. They can be altered to fit inside a stock case as well. With that setup you can run eCtune, Crome Pro or the free version of Crome & freelog (the free stuff has a few bugs... ) You could always opt for the tune and chip method that doesn't require anything other than your ECU having a chip socket added and a burnt chip.

Here is one I did up for a local track car last spring. i also have my tuning ECU setup this way.



Both boards are secured to the cover. The Ostrich board is top left, hulog is bottom right and that huge battery pack has been replaced by a smaller disc style lithium battery. None of this is noticeable from the outside of the ECU case.