I know this has been brought up before but I just replaced my master cylinder on my '91 Accord EX, bled the brakes all around twice and still I get a soft pedal. After replacing the MC my pedal doesn't sink anymore so I assumed it fixed the first problem. But the pedal just doesn't feel the same. Is this typical for the older Accords? My rear drum pads are low and I am going to change them but I can;t believe that that this would be the cause especially since the pedal felt better before replacing the MC.

 

Are you losing any fluid at all? Similar situation with my friends vehicle, turned out it was one of the rear wheel cylinders leaking in addition to the master cyl

 

Is the pedal soft or low? Did you bench bleed the MC prior to install?
Take a gander at the pdf I attached. The first page should get you on the right track. As nicolaselias said, check those wheel cylinders.
Drum 'pads' are called shoes. Drum brake shoes and disc brake pads. Ask for drum brake pads and the counter monkey might give you rear disc pads.
While your changing your shoes out, it would be a good idea to change out the wheel cylinders. An old mechanic told me many moons ago to just change the wheel cylinders when changing shoes, because they will leak with new shoes. Wheel cylinders are only about 4-7bucks a pop.
Why did you change the MC out anyway? Low pedal or was it dropping to the floor?
Did you check out the Accord FAQ sticky?
Maintenance: Brake bleeding/flushing

 

Do you have full brake fluid?? Did you Bleed the brake system correctly after changing the cylinder??

 

Thanks all for your input here's some questions answered:
1. Changed the MC because the pedal was dropping after holding for a few seconds at a stop, changed the MC and it is fixed.
2. Yes I did bench bleed the MC before install
3. Not losing any fluid
4. Wheel cylinders in the rear are dry, no leaks
5. Yep, they are called "shoes", sorry my typo
6. Bled the system after the MC install - started with the wheel farthest from the MC and worked inward - like my manual said to do. Bled system again one week later.

I'm thinking that maybe the pedal on the CB7's are just this way, maybe I'm just used to a newer system which are very touchy and really firm. I need to drive another CB7 and see if there is a difference.

 

Are those older shoes adjusted properly? Is the auto adjuster working properly? If not, then the shoes have to travel too far and require more pedal - they will feel squishy. Did you grease them up or check them out when you were in the rears?

I put rears on my 92 about a year ago, greased up everything and put on new wheel cylinder and the pedal was amazing - I did not even touch the fronts.

If nothing else, just bleed it again. I have had this happen before and I could not figure it out. I just too 10 minutes to bleed the lines again and it was all OK.

 

Faulty rebuilt MC. Hope its not a Autozone or an Advanced as they sell junk rebuilds.

 

If the pedal is abnormal air could still be in the lines. The bleeding order isn't important if you are replacing fluid as part of maintenance. But, if you are trying to get air out the bleeding order is important.

I agree with the above suggestion to check the rear shoe adjustment. Is your parking brake handle travel excessive? If you get a ton of clicks that could be an indication that your shoes aren't adjusted properly.

When the individual brake shoe adjusters are 1 or 2 clicks from the shoes touching the drums they are ajusted properly.