Lowering Spring Install Difficulty?
Hey guys, I'm looking to install my h-techs on my car, I'd rather not pay someone else to do it when I'm pretty sure that I can. The only thing I'm worried about is stripping bolts, and the level of difficulty - it has happened quite a few times on my car. Should I be worried about stripping bolts on 16 year old rusty suspension?? And, I do have plenty of simple tools that came in a kit, but no one to really help me so I'd be doing it myself.
Does this sound about right --
1 - 1 big bolt to remove the suspension from the control arm + brake line bolts.
2 - 3 bolts on the top hat of the strut.
3 - 1 bolt on top of the strut to remove the spring after its been compressed.
4 - Repeat process backwards.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/5th-gen-accord-bilstein-shock-install-how-lots-pics-2188254/
Does this sound about right --
1 - 1 big bolt to remove the suspension from the control arm + brake line bolts.
2 - 3 bolts on the top hat of the strut.
3 - 1 bolt on top of the strut to remove the spring after its been compressed.
4 - Repeat process backwards.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/5th-gen-accord-bilstein-shock-install-how-lots-pics-2188254/
Sounds about right. Remember to remove the lower fork, then u can remove the shocks, in any case, follow that guide.
When I did this on my 96 Accord, I wasn't able to put on a spring compressor, if you're buying/renting, look for one with small finger/hook. I had to do it the dangerous way, used an impact wrench to take it out without any spring compressor.
Upon before taking it apart, try to make a line from the top hat to the shock body, so you know how it lines up when u put it back on. I had trouble lining up the notch with the bottom fork. Made installation hard for me, when though i sorta "eyed" it.
I live in Southern CA, and didnt need to worry about rust. But if you do live in a rust prone state, i suggest spraying everything down with penetrating oil before you start.
(I did the lowering with Eibach Pro-Kit by myself)
When I did this on my 96 Accord, I wasn't able to put on a spring compressor, if you're buying/renting, look for one with small finger/hook. I had to do it the dangerous way, used an impact wrench to take it out without any spring compressor.
Upon before taking it apart, try to make a line from the top hat to the shock body, so you know how it lines up when u put it back on. I had trouble lining up the notch with the bottom fork. Made installation hard for me, when though i sorta "eyed" it.
I live in Southern CA, and didnt need to worry about rust. But if you do live in a rust prone state, i suggest spraying everything down with penetrating oil before you start.
(I did the lowering with Eibach Pro-Kit by myself)
I just did my springs on my S2000 the other week. I have never done any suspension work on cars, only bikes. I was scared at first, but after finding a write up and following the directions it was cake.
You will most definitely have trouble with at least one bolt but I got all mine off with the help of a breaker bar (cheater-bar, whatever you want to call it) and no damage to the stock parts. This was on a 200,000 mile car!
My advice would be to take your spring/strut assembly to a mechanic and have them use their REAL spring compressor. It won't cost much and it'll be A LOT quicker and much less time consuming. Plus, some of the rentable "compressors" are cheap and frankly dangerous.
I had one release the spring against my leg and I'll just say it didn't feel good... Unless you want a nice scar to show off I'd stay away.
Thanks for the kind words guys!! I'm still debating whether or not I want to spend the money or just save up for the car I should have had in the first place...
Its always nice to have a older car that runs like new! One cause they get more rare by the years, two everyone appreciates a older car built correct, and three build it if thats what your into to. Otherwise just buy a luxury car and call it good!
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I personally say do the suspension (Do something cheaper and effective like GC coilovers with good struts/shocks) and maybe do some wheels and call it a day if you are truly saving up for the GT. You'll enjoy the look and the ride AND can add a little bit to the sale price (depending on the wheels and who is buying it). Plus it won't have cost you much.
I guess though if you are close to having a good amount of money for a nice GT you should just save for that.
Well I think he wanted/wants to replace it with a similarly aged Mustang GT, so it's more I guess about which older car he wants to have money to modify more.
I personally say do the suspension (Do something cheaper and effective like GC coilovers with good struts/shocks) and maybe do some wheels and call it a day if you are truly saving up for the GT. You'll enjoy the look and the ride AND can add a little bit to the sale price (depending on the wheels and who is buying it). Plus it won't have cost you much.
I guess though if you are close to having a good amount of money for a nice GT you should just save for that.
I personally say do the suspension (Do something cheaper and effective like GC coilovers with good struts/shocks) and maybe do some wheels and call it a day if you are truly saving up for the GT. You'll enjoy the look and the ride AND can add a little bit to the sale price (depending on the wheels and who is buying it). Plus it won't have cost you much.
I guess though if you are close to having a good amount of money for a nice GT you should just save for that.
Just be prepared when those rear strut bolt head breaks off. They're notorious to break off. You'll need to get new bushings for your lower control arms if they do break. Good Luck.
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