is there anyway to adjust the idle where it is normal rather than the car shutting off everytime i put it in neutral while driving?

 

that happens to me with my bs sometimes...
i think its my toda flywheel dropping my revs back down too fast and my vafc/stock ecu combo no being able to "catch it" fast enough...oh well
gotta wait for the standalone...

 

i have the Toda Flywheel as well and i know that is part of the problem

 

are you running a standalone ecu?

 

yes....hondata. but it hasnt been tuned and just set at stock

 

hopefully theres your answer...
assuming you have your fuel delivery system all sorted out
i'm saving up for my bottem end and hondata

a tip from my experience so far...
driving with the ac on helps cure the problem alot
kills your gas mileage tho


[Modified by BlueR, 1:56 AM 9/16/2002]

 

thanks

 

one more question.......im using my stock timing belt with 20k on it.....any problems i would run into with the stock belt?

 

spec Cs huh...

most people on here say the stock belt is fine if installed correctly buts thats when disccussing toda bs...

i personally have a PE belt for peace of mind...

if you are going to run a stock belt at least use a new one...

and as always check on them often

 

I'd use a PE belt.

 

i dunno about about taking advice from a hampster

 

First of all. It's "Hamsta" and second of all...those are fighting words spoon smurf.

 

lolz...my smurf will have your hampta for dinner

 

I'm wondering if he misspelled that on purpose???

 

You'll need to use the Hondata to lean out the fuel mixture at idle. Once you do this, it'll have a near stock idle.

 

Toda' belt is available I believe and priced around the same as a PE belt (I could be wrong).

 

Or you can drive with your headlights on all the time, and your inside fan on. (Not necessarily the AC.) Should help a little bit.

 

Well I was experiencing the same thing with my JUN 3's and my clutchmasters 7.5 lb flywheel. Upon deceleration and stopping, the car would shut off as the revs would drop so quickly that the idle control circuit would not be quick enough to respond.

I solved the problem by setting my idle at 1000 RPM with my Hondata. The revs still fall preety quickly, but the car does not stall anymore. I think that it has more to do with the light flywheel rather than the cams


[Modified by canuck-mx6, 6:39 AM 9/16/2002]

 

reduce your inj pulse around 0 load (highest vacuum point) by -18 to 20%, this is the point when you get out of gear while driving where there is no load on the motor and it drops down near or under 1000 rpm. If you're not sure, save your program how it is before tinkering.


Greg

 

OEM belt with 20,000 miles on it AND running Toda "C" cams????

Just for your information - my OEM belt broke after 30k running Toda "B" cams.

I would definately replace the belt with a BRAND NEW unit -OR- get the PE belt.

Timing belts break! Especially when running the Toda B/C cams.

 

Same thing happened to me. Change the belt! I have one for sale if you need one
$135 shipped 2-3 day priority mail.

 

Made sure and purchased my PE Belt from Jeffna

Nick

 

.....play with your idle screw. ccw 2-3 turns will fix it. Make sure you know where it's at in the first place so you can go back to that setting if you change to stock cams again.

 

I didn't realize that there are stronger aftermarket timing belts. What's a PE belt and where can i get one for my b18c1?

 

A PE belt is short for:
Power Enterprise Super Strong Timing Belts,
They are made in Japan for added security from belt slippage and snapping. Its cheap insurance compared to ruining and replacing your valvetrain.
I have one for sale that will fit you B18c1 for $135 shippped. Find a cheaper price advertised price((In the US)and I will beat it.