Hey, i got a bad wheel bearing in my 6th gen. i been brousing through and looking what parts i need to order. im planing on buying 99 cl bearing assy's and just doing both fronts.

ACURA PART - my question is if i buy the BEARING ASSY, FR. HUB UNIT from this link below will it come with the bearing and hub pre pressed and assembled so all i would have to do is remove and then install?

http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/...All&vinsrch=no

HONDA PART - if i buy the assy from this link to my understanding is that u would have to buy bearing and hub - spending another 30$

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...y5=FRONT+BRAKE

 

maybe i'm missing something... the two bearings you have shown, the Acura part and the Honda part are not interchangeable. maybe the complete assembly including the knuckle will interchange between the Accord and CL but the two bearings will not.

in either case the bearing will come as it's shown in the image (#2) ready to be pressed onto the hub shaft. it will not come pre-assembled (...it's a sealed unit so you aren't "rebuilding" it like on older american cars/trucks) and it's not as simple as bolting it on. IIRC, the non-flange type for the Accord will need to be pressed into the knuckle and then the shaft pressed onto that.

 

I'm not sure why you are looking at Acura CL parts...

either way, I believe you are looking at the diagrams wrong.

When looking at the CL diagram you'll notice there are two different hub and rotor styles. hub #3 and rotor #17 do not go to that particular model CL you have selected and aren't listed in the parts which may be why you thought the bearing and hub came together. If you look at hub #24 and rotor #25, those are listed at the bottom of the parts and go to that particular CL you have selected.

all that aside though, if your Accord has stock brakes then using the CL parts won't work. As stated by hondamark35, the bearings aren't the same and will not work. Also, for you're style Accord, the bearing will need to be pressing into the knuckle first, then the hub pressed into the bearing.

 

Thx for the responses. Im going on a trip to florida - 2800 miles and just wanna fix bearing and since I need to replace one I figure why not replace the other. Aswell as do the rotor over hub conversion.
(120k on the car. only reason its bad is because when i did my swap i had to grind axle nut off and heat it because it would budge.)

I havent done much work on breaks and such just lookin to be pointed in the correct direction.

I planed on buying new hubs and bearings for both sides.

I also planed on buying new rotors aswell. (mine do the WOBBLE)


The rotors i was gonna get are here, i dont need nothin fancy.

http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Detai...5131&d=770&p=1

 

ok well .... i really just know the best way to go about changing wheel bearing.
i DO have acces to to press (if i didnt state this b4).
will i need new hub?

plan on getting timken wb ..

and getting new rotors for my breaks.

scrap all the questions about cl stuff...

thx in advance.

 

You shouldn't need a new hub, but I would take the opportunity to put new studs in the hub while it is separate from the knuckle.

Also, may not be a bad idea to change out the lower ball joint while you have the knuckle off the car and the bearing/hub pressed out.

PPS - I used to work at NAPA when I was going to college. The SKF wheel bearings we stocked were the exact same bearing Honda uses OEM. Same manufacturer and part numbers. Might save you a little money if they have them available.

 

if you can find the bearings already pressed into the hub, you'll save yourself some hassle but if the cost is too extravagant, no you don't need new hubs if you have access to a press.

also, its brakes...

what do you mean you plan on doing the ROH conversion? what year is your accord because all 6th gen, AFAIK, come with the rotors over the hub (bearings -> hub -> rotor), as opposed to 4th and 5th gen (1990-1997) bearing -> rotor -> hub. (from inner -> outer) or rotor bolts to back (inner) of the hub as opposed to most other cars where rotors bolt to front (outer) of hub.

if you really have 5th gen, then 98/99 CL front parts are indeed what you need for the conversion (2.3L not the 3.0), but having just gone through the hassle, I instead of spending $300 for the conversion opted for $60 for aftermarketbearings (Tas) and new rotors ($50 each iirc)

 

yeah i kinda figured this out and was like ME <- dumb *** .. lol

 

good tip .

i plan on either letting this car go or i will do a rebuild on it for a project so im not trying to put money thats not needed into it. almost all the suspension needs to be replaced very worn with all the potholes and poor quality roads around here.

 

I pretty much got this figured out .. i was thinking it was a lot more work then it really is, and the lack of knowledge on repairing suspension.

thx for the responses.

 

breaks? Its spelled brakes

 

Thx for the lesson in English... SIR