Got into a fender bender and need to replace #3 on my 95 accord.

Can I just drill out the spot welds (what size bit is best?) that hold #3 in and remove it?

Since I don't have the equipment to weld, I thought about just bolting the new piece on...Should this work?

Thanks for any help.

 

And here are some pics of the car in question...

Thanks for any help.

 

front bulkhead? The common name for that part is the radiator support.

 

Yes, this is the part I am referring to. Any suggestions?

 

its only spot welded on from what i remember but make sure you reweld it in....unfortunately you will have toreweld it in for best results...i wouldnt recommend bolting it in....the part can be found at honda or certifit

 

It doesn't look damaged enough to replace. A body shop could probably pull it back into shape. If you're creative and patient, you could probably rig something up to push or pull it back into position. I hit someone from behind with my 90 and pushed the right side of the support in some. I was able to use a come-along attached to my Ford van, got the hook on a small piece of wood behind the support, and pull it back into position.

 

That is a easy home fix brotha!! you could easily pull that out. Hook a truck up to it with a strong cable and pull it out slowly. Or if you have a winch. You can try mallets also but I doubt they are strong enough.

 

A truck bumper or solid object in conjunction with and a set of coma-longs or a ratchet strap would pull that back into shape. Or you could drill it out and weld in a new one. Personally, I wouldn't bolt it in. However, it would work and I have seen people do worse.

 

Thanks guys -- pulling it out seems like the way to go. Glad I checked here before I started drilling out the piece.

Anyone know where I can get the measurements for exactly how far it should be pulled out to get it back to factory specs? I hear that on hondas, lining these things up perfectly is important.

And, once I get it pulled out, I should be able to just pop the radiator back under?

THANKS!

 

I have all of the critical frame component measurements and the rad support isn't listed as one of them. Therefore I would assume that it is not as important to have it 100% straight. It doesn't have anything to do with aligning or strengthening any moving components. Just make sure it's as close to 90° to the frame rails as you can get it and you should be good.

If you really want to be sure. I can measure mine and give you the specs.

 

it's really easy to replace that part, and it will ensure that your hood latch and grille align properly with the hood. If you have the eqipment to do it, I'd replace it. Pull the original part back out as close as possible to the original position, then make scribe marks on the outside edges of the old one so you put the new one in the same place. it's best to use a spot weld drill if you can to drill out the welds or you can grind the top of the spot welds off. this allows you to keep the metal intact on the bottom layer that you aren't replacing. You can then drill some holes in the new part and plug weld it in. Bolting it in would work, but welding would def be better.

 

what are some of the cons of bolting a new rad support in? would it even pass inspection?

I know it doesn't look bad in the pics, but it's pretty freaking warped and trying to get the hood latch aligned, and the AC bracket to fit back on seems nearly impossible from bending it...

Maybe a shop could bend it, IDK...

 

The thing with the bend being were it is, is that it's probably not just part #3 that is out of alignment. Part #s 2 & 7 could also be pushed back. therefore you would need to pull them out along with getting the obvious bend out of part #3. Even part #12 could be pushed back as well.

It also looks as though it has been pushed up as well as back.

Part #3 should be level. aka parallel with the lower rad support.

 

You nailed it my man, #2 & 7 are also bent and do need to be re-aligned.. Thanks for the picture and input.

-Matt

 

I recently replaced my core support (radiator support) I have pics with what i did thru the whole process. Mine was bent in the same place had a guy in his suburban back over my hood (car is lowered on teins) I went to a junk yard and bought everything i needed and cut if off the car, then welded it to my car. I painted it with paint I bought from Napa (same stuff the body shop i worked for use) If you want i can post the pics to help you.

 

ghost accord is that your car in the pic? why did you grind the E coat off?

 

I sanded it off because I am simplifying and smoothing out the bay. There were so many holes to be welded and parts to be removed. I decided to sand everything down to bare metal so I could start from a clean surface. It will be getting a new industrial protective coating for sure.

 

pics of the process would be awesome and totally appreciated man! thanks

 

I don't have any pics of the tear down.. I used a air hammer with a wedge and a grinder to grind down the welds on my damaged core support. If you never done the work before take your time and look at all the places that need to be ground down. My welder isn't very big or expensive I paid 90 bucks for it. It's only 110volt flux core welder. As you can see it works fine. The hardest part is not burning through what your welding. As a note what ever you weld it should sound simular to frying bacon in a pan if you have the welder adjusted correcly. Once you remove the old support you can pratice on it to get the welder adjusted right. I'll post the pics of mine and what i did. It's not very indepth but I hope it helps you. If you have any question feel free to pm me. I'm normally online later in the day after work. i bought my paint from napa it's a single stage. you'll notice before welding the new support on i used weld thru primer to help in preventing rust. here is a list of things I used to prep and paint once everything was installed.
1.grinder to clean up welds
2.400 grit sand paper and scotch brite pads to scuff up everything so the paint sticks
3.adhesion promoter- not typicaly needed but I wasn't sure if i missed anything and didn't want the paint to flake off. It never hurts to use it
4.preps all and blue paper towels to clean all sufaces to remove any grease or wax
5.paint with the reducer and hardner
6.painting tape I personaly like the green over the blue or gold
7. At the shop I use real masking paper but didn't spend the money this time and just used old news paper.
8.self etching primer goes over any bare metal after welding is done.
I'm sure I missed something it's easier to do the job than explain it.












good luck with yours, Brian

 

Try using the [IMG] code to show your pics in the thread instead of the [URL] code.

If you edit your post you will see URL at the beginning of your image link & /URL at the end. Both are inside [...] change the URL to IMG and /URL to /IMG.

 

I've seen your work and what you've done to your cd and wanted to say it looks really good. I didn't think about cleaning up the engine bay, before asking the question.

 

Questions are always welcome.
Thanks

 

I changed it.

 

Nice work on the bulkhead replacement

 

I have the same issue as the op here are pics of the damage, my car still runs but the work is to extensive without a garage and a welder.

I had this car for 6 great years and with a split second it's damaged now I have to get rid of it