H22-97 accord swap help
First off, I've already searched for 3 days, and nothing helped. I just finished swapping a 97 h22a4 into my wifes 97 accord. Everything is wired and hooked up correctly. I'm running a chipped p28 with a conversion harness. The car turns over, but won't crank. I've checked all my grounds, it's in time, I'm getting spark and fuel. I'm stuck on what to do next. Any help is greatly appreciated!
The motor,(crank and cams)are in perfect time with each other. One thing I had to do was put the guts from the f-series dizzy in the h22 dizzy. The plugs were different. Would the crank position sensor keep it from cranking? Or is it possible to get the dizzy out of time?
Ok. I took the ckp sensor off the f22. It was working when pulled. It fit on the h22. But I just wonder if mabye I killed it when I sprayed it down with brake cleaner. And when you are installing the ckp sensor there is two magnets. The one on the left points toward the crank and the one on the right points out towards the balance belt gear right?
Yes, They are the CKP and TDC sensors, both are required in order to start the engine.

The CKP sensor is the one on the right facing out and the TDC is on the left facing in. The H22A4 uses the same TDC & CKP sensors as the OBD2 F22B1 & 2 (HPNo. - 37840-P0A-A01) so as long as it's functioning it will work.

The CKP sensor is the one on the right facing out and the TDC is on the left facing in. The H22A4 uses the same TDC & CKP sensors as the OBD2 F22B1 & 2 (HPNo. - 37840-P0A-A01) so as long as it's functioning it will work.
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ok....update, i had the firing order wrong on the dizzy. now it is right. but it still is not cranking. compression tested it also, it was 120, 122, 121, 132. does that sound correct? now it turns over, and sputters a little, but thats it.
Thats too low of compression. All Data software recommends at least 180+psi on all cyl. It's telling you something is wrong with your results.
I was just gonna say if everything is coming in such as fuel and spark.. compression has to take place for the motor to run and you have low compression numbers, that might explain why.
I was just gonna say if everything is coming in such as fuel and spark.. compression has to take place for the motor to run and you have low compression numbers, that might explain why.
damn....that sucks, the motor is brand new.i bought the head, block, pistons and rods from honda. would my timing being off a little cause low comp. i put the f-series throttle body on it, and it cranked, but it was so sluggish that it was hard to drive. also, the timing belt is walking and rubbing the valve cover,(bad tensioner mabye)?
its not broke in yet, i just put it in the car. it is throwing a CEL now but i cant scan it because of it having the p28 in it. when i put the f-series ecu in, it dont throw a code.
does anybody know how to read the code?
does anybody know how to read the code?
Are the valves adjusted correctly?
Did you put the right gear back on the crank that the CPS reads from? <--Maybe during the swap you mixed up the one from the old motor since they look pretty close to the same...
Are you sure the distrib isn't 180 degrees out?
If you spray starter fluid in the intake, does it catch?
Answer those questions and get back to us and we'll figure out your problem and get you going.
Did you put the right gear back on the crank that the CPS reads from? <--Maybe during the swap you mixed up the one from the old motor since they look pretty close to the same...
Are you sure the distrib isn't 180 degrees out?
If you spray starter fluid in the intake, does it catch?
Answer those questions and get back to us and we'll figure out your problem and get you going.
You need to swap Pin A6 and A11 which is the o2 sensor and EGR because its backwards on the Accords when using a P28 Chipped ECU; otherwise, you'll get codes. I was thinking that if you didn't have codes with your Accord ECU and does with the P28, that means you haven't swap those two pins mentioned. Good Luck.
Are the valves adjusted correctly?
Did you put the right gear back on the crank that the CPS reads from? <--Maybe during the swap you mixed up the one from the old motor since they look pretty close to the same...
Are you sure the distrib isn't 180 degrees out?
If you spray starter fluid in the intake, does it catch?
Answer those questions and get back to us and we'll figure out your problem and get you going.
Did you put the right gear back on the crank that the CPS reads from? <--Maybe during the swap you mixed up the one from the old motor since they look pretty close to the same...
Are you sure the distrib isn't 180 degrees out?
If you spray starter fluid in the intake, does it catch?
Answer those questions and get back to us and we'll figure out your problem and get you going.
I haven't adjusted the valves yet. I actually forgot about that, so I will do that tonight. I torqued the head down about 5 more foot pounds and now I got compression of 183 on all four cylinders. And does anybody have a diagram of the ecu pins? I know where I need to pin vtec, but don't know how to read the plugs
It's not the lower timing gear, it's the gear that the balance shaft belts ride on. If you look at the picture above that's posted by Ghost, it's not this gear but the one that goes on after wards. Take a look at
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/...57/index3.html
for more clarification. I'm leswhitt on that board and I fought the issue for over a year. Since then, I've straightened out +/- 12 other folks that got stuck on the same issue.
http://www.superhonda.com/forum/f13/...57/index3.html
for more clarification. I'm leswhitt on that board and I fought the issue for over a year. Since then, I've straightened out +/- 12 other folks that got stuck on the same issue.
You need to use the balance shaft belt drive from the H22A4
This is the one from the F22B1/2,

4671 Hybrid is saying that you need to use the one from the H22A4
They do have different part numbers but I have never counted the teeth on the H22A4 to see if they are the same or not. Nor have I measured the number of degrees between the triggers on the gear. If they have the same tooth count and are at the same degree interval then it won't matter what one you use.
The issue that people seem to have was that they would use a non trigger gear (OBD1) while using the OBD2 TDC & CKP hall effect sensors on the oil pump housing. That won't work without the triggers on both the drive gears.
This is the one from the F22B1/2,

4671 Hybrid is saying that you need to use the one from the H22A4
They do have different part numbers but I have never counted the teeth on the H22A4 to see if they are the same or not. Nor have I measured the number of degrees between the triggers on the gear. If they have the same tooth count and are at the same degree interval then it won't matter what one you use.
The issue that people seem to have was that they would use a non trigger gear (OBD1) while using the OBD2 TDC & CKP hall effect sensors on the oil pump housing. That won't work without the triggers on both the drive gears.
oh, ok...thanks... i have the bs belt gear from the f22 on there. i will switch it out with the h-series. i counted the triggers on both bs belt gears, the h22 gear has one more trigger on it than the f22. it runs now, but drives like a turd. so mabye thats it. also, if you look in the timing/inspection hole on the front of the block while it is running, the flywheel is wobbling. its a brand new fidanza, and i torqued it to spec. has anybody ever seen one warped that was new?
First off, I've already searched for 3 days, and nothing helped. I just finished swapping a 97 h22a4 into my wifes 97 accord. Everything is wired and hooked up correctly. I'm running a chipped p28 with a conversion harness. The car turns over, but won't crank. I've checked all my grounds, it's in time, I'm getting spark and fuel. I'm stuck on what to do next. Any help is greatly appreciated!



