Ok. So i have a stock 89 si (d16a6) and im picking up a y8 head


After reading a million threads on mini me swaps


it seems i NEED the following to get it started..



-y8 timing belt
-y8 dizzy
-y8 headgasket
-inatke manifold gasket
-header gasket
-water pump
-vtec wire
-o2 sensor??
-p28 ecu
-obd0-obd1 jumper harness
-head bolt or arp stud kit
-fluids



is that everything i need to do this? let me know thanks

 

help 24-ten welcome!

 

come on someone has done this build...let me know what if im missing something thanks

 

help

 

help me

 

help me plzzzz

 

Heck if I know i've never built one, but if you've read ALL the threads then I say go for it, you'll figure it out if you need anything else if it won't start lol

 

dont forget intake manifold gasket...

 

Just get a gasket set and water pump/timing belt kit. Its cheaper and will probably help out in the long run. and dont forget some wire to wire vtec and o2.

 

oh yeah....ima add that thanks

 

so i also need water pump timing belt and a wire to vtec and a o2 sensor..ok koo

 

im still finishing up on this swap. send me your contact info and ill try to help you out.im in the OC.

 

PM'D

 

when i did this swap i found that the y8 belt for some reason was a tad loose so i was recommended to use a d15b7 belt (92-95 civic dx/lx) and that should be the right size. pulled the engine and never got around to trying it but that's what i was told.

i used the a6 head bolts and one shorter y8 head bolt for the spot nearest the vtec solenoid.

this is the jumper harness i would go with. it already has the wires and connectors ready to go for vtec and the 4-wire o2.

http://rywire.com/store/8891-crxcivi...0f0233782b75b6

 

LOL

Seems like you're on the right track. As stated by "D16SiHatch" there is a difference with one head bolt. Don't forget to remove the oil jet in your A6 block (located slightly above the area where #2 and #3 cylinders meet, I'm sure you've seen it in some of the write ups).

As for which belt to use, I couldn't comment but it would make sense to use the Y8 belt since you're doing this on an A6 block. If in does feel a bit loose, the next belt to try would be a 1.5 DX belt (again as "D16SiHatch" stated). Just for reference:

VX-103 teeth
Z6-104 teeth
B7-106 teeth
A6-107 teeth

 

thanks 24-ten!


member me my name was EF9KIID but i got banned



But this is my new account....hey i heard u were going to the big boy ef meet on aug 29...ill see u there man

 

thanks man good stuff

 

i did this swap.. not too hard if u already got multi point fuel injection and people will yell when i say this... you can just wire the vtec to rpm sensitive switch and be done with it... dizzy might line up a little wierd and need custom fab.. but the top bolt can hold it on.. i ran mine no prob...

or u can convert to obd1 and get p28...i beleve then ur gonna have to use a dizzy from the same car.. but if u got all this money go for it...

much more reliable power from d16a6 comes from turbo or supercharger.. and the mini me rod stroke ration sucks.. really better off going to b series or entire vtec engine..

 

4 wire O2 wiring unless you disable it and run a one wire

 

i would have to disagree with you on two counts, only be cause i just did this swap = D16aA6 to Y8 head
the y8 belt works fine.
i can only see it being loose if the belt is very old or maybe an off brand, even so, the tensioner can take up enough of the slack so it should not be a problem. i recently put on a brand new y8 belt from honda, it was very tight actually. it fits like a glove with no slack what so ever.

as for the bolts, if you use ARP studs, the A6 ARP studs are are actually shorter then the Y8 and not the other way around.

there is a difference on the d16 block, which you are correct. there is one shorter out of the 10 holes in the block. the one near the Vtec area on the block. the ARP studs can still be used even if they are all the same length. the top can be screwed down lower than stock honda bolts, making arp studs more mod friendlier. also you can use an extra washer if you so desire. it would be more preferable if you use 1 stud from the A6 and 9 from the Y8 length.

 

cool. i also did this swap, and i used a new belt. it was loose. why yours fit tightly and mine didn't i cannot say.

or you could just get the arp kit for doing specifically an a6 with a y8 head..

http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/.../i-269933.aspx

 

the d16z6 and y8 belts are both smaller than the d16a6...

 

Why did you get banned?

 

to many threads...lol but i didnt know the rules

 

yeah i agree with you on this. it might just be one of those flukes.

thats good to know but i dont think they do the 9 + 1 diff sizes in that kit.
i am actually close enough to ARP, i can get the specific 9 + 1 size.