I need some help, im goin to do a swap withing this month but i need some help about what motor to go with. I found a full jdm h22swap for only 1k from one of my friends n i was thinking about buyin it n puttin a bseries tranny on it. I heard h2b is a sick setup. But other ppl tell me i should just go b20vtec or type r. I need some help on with motor will be better for all motor. It will be my dd my goal is to reach atleast 300hp with out a bottle. the motor will be going in a ekhatch. Some help will be greatfull thank you.

 

H2b

 

B-series (hehehehhehe)

 

i was thinking about doing b20vtec bc of the torgue it has. but h2b has more horse power. anyone has a h2b dd? someone told me that the weak thing about it is that its to heavy n the walls arent that strong.

 

H2B, basically a poorman's k-series swap. Several of my buddy's running H2B in EG and EK, running low 12's with basic bolt ons.

 

i don't know how realistic it is to have a 300hp dd motor...i guess to each his own...i'm partially biased towards a B20V only because i had one for a daily driver for like 3-4 years...it's not on the bottle but i'm sure i put down about the same amount of torque as an H2x motor....what do you think??

 

Ok, i dunno about everyone else, but seriously , Stop posting that **** dyno graph.. you prove nothing considering this is not really related, for all you know he could go a built gsr for all motor.

That dyno is different from alot of others
The car / motor is different it will perform differently if tuned or built by another person

stop whoring that graph out.. seriously.

 

Yea I was kind of tired of seeing that graph in every ALL MOTOR thread...

 

that graph needs to.get banned already.

 

HAHA what the spec of the engine in the graph ?

 

B20V with RS ITR cast pistons (first set of RS ITR cast pistons ever made) Portflow GSR head and valve train Blox B cams/BDL cam gears B&M fpr and 195 lph walbro RC310 injectors with RS OBD1 injector plugs Victor X manifold 70mm BDL throttle body Stock B20B crank and rods (first motor ever to use ARP rod bolts) Stock B20B sleeves (84mm bore) ITR oil pump and ITR water pump GSR timing belt sms replica header on the streets for daily driving rmf megaphone header for the drag strip hondata s300 with 2 step

 

thanks, sorry to thread jack, thats some good number for not alot spec

 

the way the title of this thread is typed makes me get pissed off.

 

Low12's? I don't know about that. I must be doing something wrong running 12.91

 

I ran 12.4. I don't think you're doing something wrong. Out of three of us (2 other buddies) we are all running h2b in identical chassis and I'm the only one to break 12's. One of them made 216 whp and the other 208. The one with 216 managed 13.0 and the other guy 13.1. First time out I ran 12.9 then 12.8. After getting tuned with the euro R I picked up 13 whp although different day of tuning I ran first run a 12.7 @ 111 mph then a 12.4 @ 111 MPH.

 

Edit: read post above wrong lol
I made 196whp and ran 12.91@105.

 

I hate threads like this. 300hp all motor daily? Possible? Yes. Impractical for someone that clearly doesn't know much about hondas/cars? Yes.

 

Quoted for truth

 

i know a guy running consistent 11.9's in a gutted hatch /w h22 euro-r on slicks

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uvvzYainUrA
in this video he runs a 12.1, but last i've talked to him he's pushing the stock engine into the 11's

 

I have nothing to add to this statement.

 

Give me $15k and I'll make it happen for you.

 

FAST.

thats all you need to know, however, it would get walked by a faster car that makes less power
________
YAMAHA TRX850

 

for the whole point of this thread. H2b FTW. i just finished mine, Evolution H2B Kit. JDM H22 longblock, Kidd racing headers, B16 tranny. beast all motor for it being stock, i will outrun any b20vtec built, type r, stock Ks, h2b tegs. and yes its my DD. Highly recomended

 

H2B. I would say from a reliability stand point its a no brainer. 200hp and 160ft with out having to tear into the motor. The only draw backs are that I can see would be depending on the chassis having to bang frame rails, additional swap procedures (grinding on the back of the block, BS removal, crank pulley shave, ect) and being able to deal with the "hood pop".