I've been having this problem for a while but it has recently got worse. I have a 2000 civic lx sedan automatic. When I'm driving my dash lights pulse kinda light they are dimming then getting bright over and over. As I drive the pulses are faster. Recently the power of the motor seems to pulse too. I can feel it in the steering wheel and my feet, but its not too bad. Any ideas on fixing this problem?

 

Check whether 7.5A dash fuse 15 is blown. If it is fine, have the alternator tested.

 

Also check the terminals, cause i had the same problem on my 97 coupe and I had a bad terminal wich I changed and problem fixed. Check the alternator first.

 

alternator diodes are burnt out

 

All fuses are fine. Battery and alternator passed the autozone test.

If the diodes were bad it wouldnt pass the test, right?

And how would I check the terminals?


Thanks for the help

 

bump

 

go to wal mart or autozone and get a terminal cleaner. just clean up your terminals, big 3 never hurt anyone either.. you could possibly get away with using a wire brush too..



http://www.b20vtec.com/forums/audio-...6-big-3-a.html

 

A bad alternator might be missed in the test if the problem was not occurring at the time.

 

An actual Honda dealership tested my alternator once when I went to get a new battery on their warranty. They said it was good. The car wouldn't start a week later so I pushed it off and tested the alt. myself and it was garbage. Then I replaced it. Sometimes "tests" done by other people aren't very good.

 

I'll have it tested again this week. Ill try the terminal thing as well.

Any other ideas?

 

Change both terminals, and I bet thats it!!!! cause my car was doing the same exact thing and sometimes It wouldnt even start, I had to move the positive terminal around just to get it to start. ANW they only cost like $3 each...

 

The belts not like falling off is it. lol sounds like an alt to me.It is similar to have a sub/amp in your car when the bass hits the lights dimm.Same concept really it is drawing power.Thats what a capacitor does it holds a charge to keep from frying your alt.Its gotta be the alt.Althoughhh i remember my buddy having a 6th gen sedan auto with similar problems.His car would pop the fuse for the battery light to come one everythime his key turned ahead.Turned out to be burnt wiring in behind the block below the cooling pipe where there is like 3 unused plug ins.If it pops fuses left and right its worth a shot to check it and not overlook it.

But i have after selling people alternators that i drove in a car and removed.They would bring them to get tested and they come back saying they don't work.It can go both ways.Start your car and get a screw nail wrench anything and see if it sticks onto the back of your alt.That will narrow it down for you

 

Sounds like the alternator to me. DO you have some gigantic ridiculous stereo system on it thats been beating it to death for a while now? And the testing doesn't always mean anything, especially if its a pimply 16 year old at Auto Zone. Test it yourself a couple times if you can, before and after driving it.

 

autozone test sucks. all they check for is the alternator is putting out 14 volts or higher. but it doesn't check how many amps it puts out. ie. it should put out between 65-75 amps at 14.4 volts to be good. but you alternator might be putting out 5 amps at 14.4 volts. but would still pass the test due to the voltage matching.

 

^^ this. when i got my car checked all he did was check to see if the car was running at 14.0+ V, which it was but he showed me the test and the amperage was down in the 20s under load so i knew my alternator was dying. the VR on the alternator blew out some fuses including my battery fuse and every bulb in the headlight assembly. its something i recommend you get fixed asap

 

heres a solution.Get your car at operating temp.When it starts to act up removed you battery terminal.If the car shuts off your alt is toast.Do you battery light flick in your dash? Im after been trouble shooting atlernator trouble before by this.If theres a slight hesitation when the terminal is removed its expected but if the car dies you found your problem.

 

i wouldnt recommend this method. i still say get it tested and check amperage

 

is there any particular reason? i have done it before and it works.If your alt is good the car will run off the alt.Then just hook your terminal back up and try something else.Its worth a shot and its very simple.and dont forget to set your clock if yourfortunate enough to have one lol.I had to get one off an se ej2 lol dx by...

 

it can send voltage spikes. i know plenty of people who have done it and have nothing happen but its just one of those precautionary measures like putting jack stands under a car. yeah sure a jack will hold it up but whos to say it wont fail. yeah a bit of an exageration since a failing jack will kill you lol

 

Had a jack stand save my dude's life. So with this reasoning, don't do that terminal test bahah.

 

...that can potentially damage sensitive circuits like those in the ECU.

 

Don't guess, troubleshoot



^ in your sig.Ive done it before and it works sorry for commenting jeezz

 

Don't guess, (Don't Blow up your car), troubleshoot

This part is invisible in his sig. You need special glasses to read it. They didn't come with your Civic? You can buy OEM ones at Honda. Cheap too!

...Okay, I'm done ha.

 

It's a risky form of troubleshooting that should be avoided and not recommended because it may under some circumstances cause more harm than good.

 

well im sorry for filling your thread up with useless junk