First off I'll start with the Intake Question:

What benefits will I see from switching from a 3" intake with 3-4" adapter for the 4" filter, down to a 2.5inch pipe with a 2.5inch filter?

With what I have now (3" intake, 2.5inch header, 2.5inch exhaust) I notice that my 80-110 is FASTER then my 0-60 (weird I know). The car has never been chipped (but soon will be).

I am going to be getting my car chipped and tuned soon for just those base things, so it runs right and most likily get better mileage. I've already decided in dropping the pipe size down from 3 to 2.5, and get a filter that is a proper fit. What will change?

Secondly My Tranny (oh god flame wars will start I'm sure):

My Tranny lost 3rd gear strength a long time ago. Say I am in 3rd, about 40MPH, and I let go of the gas, the engine will jolt (like its lost the gear) and the shifter pops out of place. I've been fine with that since most of the time I am highway driving and stay in 4th and 5th, and first and second during town driving.

The problem in-lies with this, my tranny now drops 5th and 2nd. I was driving on the highway in 5th gear, and my gear just poped right out. Not sure If I hit a bump and maybe knocked it out, but it came out of gear (waaa). When I get home, I turn my circle before I park, and I usually leave it in second, it too has poped out 2 days in a row.

My question is this, is it because my clutch is starting to wear down (after 9 months of heavy abuse on a stock Luk clutch) or are my gears in the tranny ****ed up. I wont mind buying a new tranny, I'm getting a competition clutch set soon (stage 4 in prep for my turbo application, which i still need to buy all the parts lol) so If I have to, a new tranny wont phase me, but what do you all think?

ALSO NOTE: That I am driving a Del Slow with a d16z6, just for clarification, yes my tranny is hydraulic.

Thanks in Advance.

 

the tranny jolting is your "isb" i have no idea what that is but im pretty sure its a $25 dollar bearing.My parents car had the same trouble.If you were to take your gearbox out and grab onto the main shaft,the one the clutch slides onto.You will be able to wiggle it around(spozed to have no play).So your clutch slip? My parents went so bad that oil spewed everywhere and half fuc*ed the clutch

 

JUNKYARD TRANSMISSION TIEM! cheaper and more cost effective than having someone do the work for you. d-series transmissions are a dime a dozen.


as for the intake question, honestly there's no difference. put your stock intake back on and drive the honda for gas mileage. they seem to have this connotation of being a family appliance, much like a toaster. save your money for a legitimate swap. then you'll get to experience a "quick" honda. if you want a "fast" honda be prepared to shell out some dough.

 

I do all my work, as for as going to a junkyard, I can easily get a 60k tranny from a website for like 150-200, granted a junkyard may only be 50-100, but still. either way I guess ill be replacing it. Time to buy GEAR-X tranny internals for the perfect racing application :D

 

If you only have bolt ons, then you dont need any tuning. your already tuned!

Tuning is for changing of AFR's and since your bolt ons dont change the AFR, you dont need it.

 

so, to you, an intake with bigger pipe then stock, a higher flowing filter, bigger headers, and a larger exhaust, wont change anything. lol. I have a east coast tuner who says otherwise. its not as huge of a gain as a turbo or built motor, but tuning it (especially for the price im getting) is totally worth it. better flowing pipe means you can change the air/fuel ratio, and then you have a bigger exhaust to handle the higher need.

200 for chipped ecu and base tune, not bad if you ask me.

a 3" pipe allows for a lot more air flow, I want to back that down to 2.5. you don't run 3" turbo piping and then have a tiny exhaust, and you don't do the opposite, you want the proper size all the way through, and my tuner that I go to says the same. tiny upgrades can be decent if you take advantage of it.

with more air coming in, header, exhaust, 2.5 all round, and a proper tune, I'm looking at like 10 more hp or so, plus my gas mileage will increase from a proper tune. any change affects performance and gas mileage, to maximize both, you always need a tune.

 

The factory air/fuel maps are perfectly capable of coping with the small differences in airflow caused by a simple I/H/E. They have to be, because when the ambient temperature and barometric pressure changes, your air/fuel maps change by as much as an I/H/E will cause. If the ECU couldn't cope, every car would run like crap in the summer. They're DESIGNED to account for fluctuations in airflow... That's why your car has a barometric pressure sensor, an IAT, a MAP, and an O2 sensor. That's what they do.

I'm not saying a tune is a bad thing. I think they're great. Really. If I had a dyno and a romburner, I'd be screwing with it constantly. I'm just saying that I don't think they're worth the cost until you get into cams/valvetrain mods or forced induction. Will they help you eek out that last .5 HP from your CAI and header? Yes. Is 1 HP worth $200? Not to me.

Tune all you want, that's just my $.02.