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Please help. Burning 1qt oil per 100 miles-problem arose overnight

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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 07:41 AM
  #1  
alcatranz518's Avatar
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Default Please help. Burning 1qt oil per 100 miles-problem arose overnight

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Hello all,

This is my fist post (obviously) and I am in dire straights. I am stuck in NJ for work until mid-August, living at a hotel and trying to diagnose/fix a problem I aquired overnight.

My V is a 2000 with a B20Z, standard shift, AWD and 151,xxx miles. Bought the car recently around May and she ran great. I installed a OBX header and HAI (please no flaming, I am stressed enough right now) , now its blowing oil out the exahaust, approx a quart every 100 (YES 100) miles. This is driving me crazy. I checked the PCV and its like new. I did a compression test and read an EVEN 168psi across the board. Plus, wires, cap and rotor are all new (changed them while I was trying to diagnose the issue) Oil is changed every 3500 with 5W30 and a bottle of Lucas. The weird thing is, she still gets 27mpg consistantly, just the oil consumption is killing me, being I drive about 100miles a day.

I do not beat on the V, but driving in NJ you do have be agressive, where when I do have to push past 1/2 throttle, the smoke flies like a diesel out the tail pipe. The plugs ARE reading a bit black (dry, not wet), and I thought MAYBE valve seals or rings...but that can't be a problem that happens overnight, right? I am at a loss, I hope someone knows what this problem may be that I can possibly be overlooking.

Last edited by alcatranz518; Jul 6, 2010 at 08:16 AM.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 12:14 PM
  #2  
Splaturn's Avatar
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From: Stockton, CA, USA
Default Re: Please help. Burning 1qt oil per 100 miles-problem arose overnight

Have you done a leak down test?

If it's smoking like a diesel upon acceleration, seems as if oil is getting past the rings. Coolant still looking good? Oil looking a tad milky?

Rings and seals can seemingly go overnight, so don't rule them out just yet.
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Old Jul 6, 2010 | 03:42 PM
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alcatranz518's Avatar
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Default Re: Please help. Burning 1qt oil per 100 miles-problem arose overnight

Haven't done a leakdown test, I do not have the tools unfortunately for it. The coolant and oil appear ok, coolant level unchanged and still topped off and the colors of each are nothing out of the ordinary.

I JUST had the oil changed 2 weeks ago, 5W30 with NO lucas, when I noticed I needed oil a week later, I put Lucas in. (normally I only add it once a year, but since I went thru a quart in a week, I thought maybe the 5W30 was too thin.)

I checked inside the intake, its SUPER clean, so no oil is passing thru the intake tube. I removed the PCV valve and triple checked it. It works fine, the hose and system are passing air as well, being I placed the blowgun at the PCV inlet and heard the air going into the intake.

I did notice the car even smokes now at idle. Nothing lines up for me with the symptoms. I am at a loss, and being my predicament here in NJ, I NEED to fix this soon....and preferably cheap.

EGR was mentioned by my boss...but that would throw a code I would think, plus I can't see how that would cause so much oil burn. But if I am wrong please let me know, I am definitly open to suggestions.

I am nervous to think the car had an existing problem and the place I bought it covered it up with Motor Honey.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 04:36 AM
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From: Providence, RI, USA
Default Re: Please help. Burning 1qt oil per 100 miles-problem arose overnight

I bought a 2000 Civic EX that was doing the same. Upon teardown of the motor, I found that the oil rings were so gunked up and carbonized, they were stuck on the ring lands and no longer contacting the cylinder walls. Compression rings were intact and, like you, compression was perfect. (190 across the board in fact)

My machinist notched it up to either a massive overheat or a long period of operating the engine with a clogged PCV.

I've seen a rotary engine with a blown apex seal RUN after pouring ATF into the chamber, so don't underestimate the ability of a high viscosity oil to hide this condition for a short period of time.

Sadly, you're looking at a fix that requires opening up the motor. A quicker solution may be to grab a JDM B20 from the importer in Newark @ $895 with a warranty. Anyone that knows what they're doing should be able to swap it out in a day. The bad block would garner a lot of attention in the Northeast sales forum for a CRVTEC, so you could at least recoup some of the cost.
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