Nothing special really, biturbo audi engine swapped over to a single hta 3586. Just put these on the server for a friend and I thought I would share.






































Finished project from a copy set of manifolds here: https://honda-tech.com/forums/welding-fabrication-53/havent-posted-while-finished-my-personal-car-2935359/

 

I recommend you bevel those pipe joints..

 

Everything gets broken apart and beveled or beveled by hand before final.

When busting out new stuff with the intention of jigging it for recreation I rarely prep anything. I tack with a mig over dirt, sharpie, you name it. It speeds stuff up a lot between that and not making any real effort to bevel. When i am doing something once, i do it right. If you cant tell a lot there has been smacked off, rewelded, tweaked, tacked, etc.

 

Looks good but, what's that piece on the collector? Decoration?

 

Looks like a 2.7 bi turbo S4 engine?

Looks like an interesting setup! My buddy is got his motor out of his B5 replacing some bad k03's (shocker right, only 50k miles on the car too). I told him he needs to just skip putting back more k03's or even k04's... go to a single like this or a twin gt28 setup.

I take it if your jigging it up, this is something your going to have the posibility of recreating another one of?

 

part of the support that drop down to the transmission.

 

yes on the 2.7t
I could, I will build at least one more exactly like this to have on hand. this one wont be cheap tho.

 

Interesting. Don't know that I've seen that before. How's it work?

 

It works fine, its kinda showy for no reason really. A much simpler tab could be made to simply bolt to but instead i use an arm that comes up and the lower tab just barely sits into a cup with a slight pre load up.

Or it can be used with a shorter arm and supported by a heim, I have done both and the end result is the same. With the bellows it keeps everything happy.

 

How do you plan on welding the material that is under the brace you created? When you're tacking stuff together, you could get away without using filler. If you ever have to break anything apart for modification its gonna be a pain to get it off. Most of the fitment looks really good, when you're certain you have a piece where it needs to be the only thing i'd recommend is cleaning it up. When you weld that manifold up all of that sharpie writing will be burnt into the material and the only easy solution will be to coat it.

That bend on the left side of the last picture that has the gap in it, i'd recommend putting a bunch of cold tacks on it and weld it because when the gap closes it'll try to pull together and could potentially throw everything off including the downpipe etc.

Practice this when you are tacking, turn your machine up to 150-200amps put the tungsten where it needs to go, close your eyes and cover the torch with ur other hand (so you dont get exposed to all of the light) slam the pedal until it ignites, release immediately and you'll have a nice concave tack that will be easy to cover up when you weld.

After reviewing all of the pics i noticed the driver side header has some gaps in it too, fabrication is really all about patience and sanding until you get a desired angle. Its never as fast as you think its going to be but the key is in the prep work. If you prep your stuff properly (sanding, cleaning, BEVELING etc) then you'll have a much nicer product in the end.

 

only thing i don't understand is why go through all the trouble of fabbing this up just to tear it all apart to bevel everything?

I always bevel before i tack, fabrication effciency keeps doing this kind of work profitable. Really watch those gaps also.

 

there are no gaps.

optical illusion / shadow

 

There looks to be a lot of gaps.

My "fabber" used to tack with filler, used to drive me crazy trying to weld over the top of it. I've made manifolds like you where you've not beveled pieces, when doing a new "custom" manifold your never sure if something is going to want reworking so you don't bevel and move onto the next piece. I never do it now though, even if you have to rebevel the odd bits it still works out quicker.

Nice work though, what drill is it your using? I like the laser cross-hair. That would leave no excuse for the fabber when he drills the hole in the wrong place. :lol:

 

Guys, I thank you for your concerns, trust me, there is not a single place where you can stick even wire through a gap. As far as contamination goes, everything gets cleaned, I wouldnt waste money back purging everything just to have my puddle have all sorts of crap in it.

The contrast, clarity and shadows / blacks are blown out in these photos because im an artsy fartsy photo person like that. An area that looks gapped is simply an optical illusion. uneven bevels and deep bevels will do that. some of its beveled completely, some half way where i took off some material to correct an angle, some not at all. i appreciate the advice, this isnt a normal project and this isnt my first rodeo. so much is going on there its hard to explain. maybe if i had taken a shot with the engine in the bay. this was built basically in the car because it had never been done before and the fit is absolutely nuts.

btw, I can (as should anyone else) get full pen with no bevel if i feel like it, just isnt as pretty. Oh and on the bevels, when everything is broken apart to individual runners, it is so easy to spin them on my wheel and make pretty new matching bevels, run everything over the scotchbrite wheel, final pass around each butt with a file, wipe down and then weld. As opposed to making everything pretty then trying to keep it that way during the mayhem. Personally i dont like changing my gloves when i transition from pulling the engine and trans to holding prepped SS or AL 100 times. I will leave my pretty white gloves in the box ready for when everything is sitting on the bench. I by no means claim my methods to be better, correct or to even make sense, its just how i do stuff.

 

Looks nice, I could ask you a million dumb questions but its called mock up for a reason

 

ask away and i will attempt to answer...

 

getting all the way thru schedule 10 with no bevel is gonna be way to much heat, thats my only opinion on what you typed. otherwise you must have some kind of patience to work on those cars, i couldnt deal with it.

 

some more showing fitment.

 

Nice work!

 

Any more updates on this?

 

not really, I have been setting up a new shop. Its done but I am slammed currently. I will get some fresh pics next week. Thanks for the interest.

edit, here are some pics I had kicking around of the rs4 manifold I modified for this car. I did an entire write up on it for another forum in regards to the finish work and stuff. if people are interested in it I will post it as a separate thread....

Modified B5 RS4 intake manifold for b5 s4 single turbo conversion. Without the bi-turbo Y shaped inlet pipe going all over it and the factory fuel rails swapped for 034 machined units in -10 now I decided to make it sexy.




Not bad for some time and effort and not that much cost wise for materials.




Next up for this one is some mild porting of the bottom of the runners to match the 2.8 big port heads, other than that I will run as is.


For reference, this is what this exact manifold looked like this morning. Had a TB adapter welded on I had to cut off in addition to the other stuff.


two more i found on the net to give an idea of what I did for those curious. the one port left is for my brakes and fuel pressure. I have something trick for my BOV control...

 

Pretty ballsy tacking a whole turbo setup together before laying a single bead. Regardless of fitment there will always be some warpage or shrinking. There's no chance that everything will line up again after welding. I've gotten to the point now where I weld a runner completely before even starting the next runner in case of warpage. Saves alot of post welding fitment.

 

^^As long as fitment is good,which his looks pretty good, you really shouldnt have to worry too much about shrinkage and warping when welding in a jig. When I weld runners I will break all the other runners off of the manifold while in the jig except one,I will then weld the runner.Once it cools I will pull it off and move on to another runner ect.. This will substantially help alot to keep runners from shrinking.

The build looks great keep updating us with pics!!