smoothing out bay - need some advice on filler - pics
6-29-2010 evening
i decided to spray a little primer to see better where i have to sand more and obviously fill so i can smooth things out eventually. any ideas as to what type of filler to use and should i take it down to bare metal??

see that line up the middle? bondo? metal glaze? what should i use?

a lot of work to do there!!






also i am thinking about a dark color like a brown - how do you all think that would fare?? all i want to do is smooth out the area around and in front of the shock towers so it looks cleaner and smoother. they globbed seam sealer all over the place in my bay from the factory and i am just trying to clean that up before my color change.
i decided to spray a little primer to see better where i have to sand more and obviously fill so i can smooth things out eventually. any ideas as to what type of filler to use and should i take it down to bare metal??

see that line up the middle? bondo? metal glaze? what should i use?

a lot of work to do there!!






also i am thinking about a dark color like a brown - how do you all think that would fare?? all i want to do is smooth out the area around and in front of the shock towers so it looks cleaner and smoother. they globbed seam sealer all over the place in my bay from the factory and i am just trying to clean that up before my color change.
6-30-2010
today i managed to get 99% of that excess rubber sealer off with a few coats of aircraft paint stripper and some elbow grease and scrapers.
here is what the excess rubber looks like at first - wavy


after some elbow grease and 2-3 hours











i believe the first ones are the ones after i sanded and the ones towards the bottom are before sanding, they are backwards - i believe.
now i need to figure out if i should use some filler in some spots or just paint(i mean i still have more sanding and scraping to do - i just mean after i am done sanding and scraping).
body filler?? yay? nay? i am thinking about hitting the flat parts at the left and right( where the abs accumlator and battery used to be) - there will be no more accumulator so i want that area clean and my battery is an odyssey pc680 which is ounted to the frame rail - so that battery area will also be empty.
today i managed to get 99% of that excess rubber sealer off with a few coats of aircraft paint stripper and some elbow grease and scrapers.
here is what the excess rubber looks like at first - wavy


after some elbow grease and 2-3 hours











i believe the first ones are the ones after i sanded and the ones towards the bottom are before sanding, they are backwards - i believe.
now i need to figure out if i should use some filler in some spots or just paint(i mean i still have more sanding and scraping to do - i just mean after i am done sanding and scraping).
body filler?? yay? nay? i am thinking about hitting the flat parts at the left and right( where the abs accumlator and battery used to be) - there will be no more accumulator so i want that area clean and my battery is an odyssey pc680 which is ounted to the frame rail - so that battery area will also be empty.
i have no advice one way or another, because those parts are going to flex during turns, and without spot welding the seam rigid, your body filler will just crack, personally though, i would be more inclined to use short strand fiberglass first given the nature of the contours.
thanks for the advice Spawne32. i am still debating what exactly to do. i am still researching that part. i have a feeling i am going to redo this more than once to get it right the way i want it. never thought of fiberglass because i thought that would definitely crack. i still may weld, grind and metal glaze - or try the seam sealer then glaze. i want to see what my auto body supply guy has to say next week.
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well fiberglass is better designed for working with body seams and holes
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=36
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=36
thanks Spawne32 once again. i just got back from my freinds shop and he said to just use filler and glaze!! i am confused. i am considering your options heavily right now. thanks for the input.
all i ask, is that you consider the fact that the description on the fiber glass says to use it for exactly what your gona do. lol but by all means, use what you feel is correct, i typically only feel comfortable using filler and glaze on flat surfaces without seams, i have an issue on my car currently because my dad decided to use filler and glaze on the holes we welded up and they wound up cracking underneath the paint from the movement of the trunk lid, where as i should have used fiberglass.
id like to point out that your using the fiberglass as a base, you still need to use glaze after you sand the fiberglass smooth
so -
1. everglass
2. filler? (rage maybe)
3. metal glaze?
am i on the right track?? or is that too much material?
i can use the everglass to build by the seams. then filler to smooth out some and then metal glaze to get my smooth looking finish right? what do you recommend for the other 2 products if i use the everglass?
1. everglass
2. filler? (rage maybe)
3. metal glaze?
am i on the right track?? or is that too much material?
i can use the everglass to build by the seams. then filler to smooth out some and then metal glaze to get my smooth looking finish right? what do you recommend for the other 2 products if i use the everglass?
the everglass takes the place of the filler, you will sand the glass the same way you would the filler, then just glaze to fill the pin holes, and then sand and prep for primer
also, i recommend all evercoat products,
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=1
and evercoat zgrip if you do use filler anywyhere else on the car, rage is good too but its not necessary, you still wanna use your metal glaze to get the cleanest finish possible.
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=1
and evercoat zgrip if you do use filler anywyhere else on the car, rage is good too but its not necessary, you still wanna use your metal glaze to get the cleanest finish possible.
best way to think of it, your making a cake, filler/fiberglass is like your cake, your metal glaze is like your iceing. and you want as little as possible of both, cus if you start dumping it on there, its more likely to crack.
great info man. i just called a body supply store near me and they have to order the everglass for me.. so now i wait... they have the glaze in stock though.
if you browse alot of the build topics on the various forums, you will see alot of people working with fiberglass under the hood, but its truly an art form, you will get the hang of it, and you can always just sand it down if you screw up.
now for an area like my firewall which requires no filler or body work should i just scuff it up with a scotch brite pad??
pics of todays sanding. i did 90% of the shock towers and areas forward of them.


pics of todays sanding. i did 90% of the shock towers and areas forward of them.


7-3-2010
today i decided to tackle the rust hole in my drivers side rear quarter. got some fiberglass repair kit and off to work.
before sanding and a smoke for size reference


after sanding


after fiberglass






then i decided to break out the sander and get to the dings on the rear quarter as well.
today i decided to tackle the rust hole in my drivers side rear quarter. got some fiberglass repair kit and off to work.
before sanding and a smoke for size reference


after sanding


after fiberglass






then i decided to break out the sander and get to the dings on the rear quarter as well.
i agree with guy before, i use the short strand reinforced filler from evercoat, but i DO NOT like there metal glaze, it builds all the resin to the top and gums up the sandpaper , i like keystone keyflo dries very quick and easiest sanding glaze ive ever used
thanks for the input Rukus!
7-4-2010
went out to sand sown the fiberglass repair for my rust hole to see what it looks like.
so far this is what i got. i have a few low spots in the middle and around the edges where i tried to feather edge as best as i could and i have a pinhole on the edge of the repair! i am trying to figure out if i should fill in some fiberglass there without the cloth to repair it before i use filler on that spot.



7-4-2010
went out to sand sown the fiberglass repair for my rust hole to see what it looks like.
so far this is what i got. i have a few low spots in the middle and around the edges where i tried to feather edge as best as i could and i have a pinhole on the edge of the repair! i am trying to figure out if i should fill in some fiberglass there without the cloth to repair it before i use filler on that spot.



realistically you should have welded a patch to that panel in that hole rather then using the fiberglass, but it should hold up. Looks like your doing good so far, as you can see the reason why you need to use some sort of glaze or filler on top of the fiberglass after you sand it. Ive never had an issue with the evercoat metal glaze but ive never used it on top of the fiberglass, my car didnt need any fiberglass when i first did the body work but more then likely id be doing alot of that work next summer. If you contact evercoat they might actually be able to give you better advice on what to use to fill on top of the fiberglass.
as always thanks for the advice. for the panels that are perfectly fine should i just scuff them down with a scotch brite pad then use sealer before i paint?


