TODA C2 Camshafts cant find any good info on them
A set has come up forsale and im interesed in them
I know super street is lame, but in there B vs K shoot out the B series powered coupe is what they choose running toda C" cams and a 2000c motor. Power numbers were some were
So im wondering what C2s" are capable
I know super street is lame, but in there B vs K shoot out the B series powered coupe is what they choose running toda C" cams and a 2000c motor. Power numbers were some were
So im wondering what C2s" are capable
FYI ive got a 84.5x89 dart block that im building....
Its a long block built for boost, but I dont have the time for a nasty turbo setup that the motor is capable of.
Im looking to make 240whp NA, this isnt my daily driver but its a street car
Its a long block built for boost, but I dont have the time for a nasty turbo setup that the motor is capable of.
Im looking to make 240whp NA, this isnt my daily driver but its a street car
You just need to try harder.
Here: (This is your only spoon feed only because I LOVE TODA RACING, and have only run Toda and Jun Cams for over 13 years)
http://www.todaracingusa.com/catalog...idCategory=143
Toda Spec C2
Intake Lift 12.5mm
Int. duration 260@ 1mm -- 295@ 0mm
Exhaust lift 12.5mm
Exh. Duration 260@ 1mm --- 295@ 0mm
This cam mixes the midrange power of the Toda B cam with the top end of similar to that of the JUN Type 3 and Skunk2 Stage 2. Power gains from 4500rpms all the way to 9000rpms. This is truly, the best overall cam for both midrange and top-end power. They might not give the top-end gains of the Skunk2 Stage 3 but you get more midrange and these cams can be used on the street with the right set-up . Due to the crazy off-VTEC lobes the idle is ever so slightly rougher than stock, just like the Toda B cam. I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams along with a Toda, Power Enterprises, or Gates timing belt.
You need over 11.5:1 compression and uprated complete valvetrain beyond Type R to run these. valve lash and seat pressures are at oem specifications.
Your one spoon feed.. hope it was tasty ;-)
Here: (This is your only spoon feed only because I LOVE TODA RACING, and have only run Toda and Jun Cams for over 13 years)
http://www.todaracingusa.com/catalog...idCategory=143
Toda Spec C2
Intake Lift 12.5mm
Int. duration 260@ 1mm -- 295@ 0mm
Exhaust lift 12.5mm
Exh. Duration 260@ 1mm --- 295@ 0mm
This cam mixes the midrange power of the Toda B cam with the top end of similar to that of the JUN Type 3 and Skunk2 Stage 2. Power gains from 4500rpms all the way to 9000rpms. This is truly, the best overall cam for both midrange and top-end power. They might not give the top-end gains of the Skunk2 Stage 3 but you get more midrange and these cams can be used on the street with the right set-up . Due to the crazy off-VTEC lobes the idle is ever so slightly rougher than stock, just like the Toda B cam. I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams along with a Toda, Power Enterprises, or Gates timing belt.
You need over 11.5:1 compression and uprated complete valvetrain beyond Type R to run these. valve lash and seat pressures are at oem specifications.
Your one spoon feed.. hope it was tasty ;-)
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I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams along with a Toda, Power Enterprises, or Gates timing belt.
You need over 11.5:1 compression and uprated complete valvetrain beyond Type R to run these. valve lash and seat pressures are at oem specifications.
Your one spoon feed.. hope it was tasty ;-)
You need over 11.5:1 compression and uprated complete valvetrain beyond Type R to run these. valve lash and seat pressures are at oem specifications.
Your one spoon feed.. hope it was tasty ;-)
Definately invest in a stronger t-belt. my Toda B's and Toda springs have destroyed my Toda belt after 2 years of use...
As for the valve lash: OEM is:
0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007 in.) on the intake side
0.17-0.21mm (0.007-0.008 in.) on the exhaust side
So I wasn't far off when you're saying 0.2mm cold
Don't know how that happened to you. People tend to overtighten high tension belts thinking they are like OEM and will stretch over time when they won't.
As for the valve lash: OEM is:
0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007 in.) on the intake side
0.17-0.21mm (0.007-0.008 in.) on the exhaust side
So I wasn't far off when you're saying 0.2mm col.d
As for the valve lash: OEM is:
0.15-0.19mm (0.006-0.007 in.) on the intake side
0.17-0.21mm (0.007-0.008 in.) on the exhaust side
So I wasn't far off when you're saying 0.2mm col.d
when it was loose and 'oem spec' for tightness, my motor sounded like WW3 going on. tightened it a bit, it's super quiet now...odd eh?
anyways, i don't mean to thread jack. i think i'll post up another thread on this soon with pics of my shredded tbelt
Ya I just change my timing belt more often than most people - mainly for peace of mind.
And I run it tight as ****.
I have used a PE belt, and am currently using a toda timing belt.
This is with spec C's and toda valvetrain.
And I run it tight as ****.
I have used a PE belt, and am currently using a toda timing belt.
This is with spec C's and toda valvetrain.
It's these or Pro2s setup with the right compression and header. To get the most out of it, to many people build these cars the wrong way.
How would pro2s be to much? I'm running a 2.0 84.5x89 build
Ive got 1mm over sized valves and a street port, motor is going to be clayed and im ordering pistons with valve reliefs for extra clearance.
Cams will determine what my compression is going to be
My dynamic compression not my static
Ive got 1mm over sized valves and a street port, motor is going to be clayed and im ordering pistons with valve reliefs for extra clearance.
Cams will determine what my compression is going to be
My dynamic compression not my static
Many people have said it was never "too much" on a 2.0 litre, only to find that it was not as "streetable" as you believe. Check the ads on the marketplace. There are a lot of them for sale from people that believed that their build "on paper" was ready for the Pro2s only to find that they didn't like the powerband, idle rpm, and characteristics that were given by the pro2s for ones that were more usable on the street, LIKE the TODA C2s.
Don't just look at the build sheet. Look at the feedback from those who have sold their cams for something else.
Don't just look at the build sheet. Look at the feedback from those who have sold their cams for something else.
i'm using toda c2 and the tuner can't seem to tune my car to reach 18.00 kg-nm of torque. previous cams s2 stage 2 i can get torque 18kg-nm. i decided change to toda cam is beause i want the power soon as possible.s2 s2 peak torque is at 6k rpm.while toda c2 peak torque at 4k rpm. but my tuner only manage to get 17.88 torque only....he says my car CR is low. he said try get toda c.
is this true? toda c can compensate my low CR of car??????
is this true? toda c can compensate my low CR of car??????
You just need to try harder.
Here: (This is your only spoon feed only because I LOVE TODA RACING, and have only run Toda and Jun Cams for over 13 years)
http://www.todaracingusa.com/catalog...idCategory=143
Toda Spec C2
Intake Lift 12.5mm
Int. duration 260@ 1mm -- 295@ 0mm
Exhaust lift 12.5mm
Exh. Duration 260@ 1mm --- 295@ 0mm
This cam mixes the midrange power of the Toda B cam with the top end of similar to that of the JUN Type 3 and Skunk2 Stage 2. Power gains from 4500rpms all the way to 9000rpms. This is truly, the best overall cam for both midrange and top-end power. They might not give the top-end gains of the Skunk2 Stage 3 but you get more midrange and these cams can be used on the street with the right set-up . Due to the crazy off-VTEC lobes the idle is ever so slightly rougher than stock, just like the Toda B cam. I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams along with a Toda, Power Enterprises, or Gates timing belt.
You need over 11.5:1 compression and uprated complete valvetrain beyond Type R to run these. valve lash and seat pressures are at oem specifications.
Your one spoon feed.. hope it was tasty ;-)
Here: (This is your only spoon feed only because I LOVE TODA RACING, and have only run Toda and Jun Cams for over 13 years)
http://www.todaracingusa.com/catalog...idCategory=143
Toda Spec C2
Intake Lift 12.5mm
Int. duration 260@ 1mm -- 295@ 0mm
Exhaust lift 12.5mm
Exh. Duration 260@ 1mm --- 295@ 0mm
This cam mixes the midrange power of the Toda B cam with the top end of similar to that of the JUN Type 3 and Skunk2 Stage 2. Power gains from 4500rpms all the way to 9000rpms. This is truly, the best overall cam for both midrange and top-end power. They might not give the top-end gains of the Skunk2 Stage 3 but you get more midrange and these cams can be used on the street with the right set-up . Due to the crazy off-VTEC lobes the idle is ever so slightly rougher than stock, just like the Toda B cam. I recommend using Toda cam gears with these cams along with a Toda, Power Enterprises, or Gates timing belt.
You need over 11.5:1 compression and uprated complete valvetrain beyond Type R to run these. valve lash and seat pressures are at oem specifications.
Your one spoon feed.. hope it was tasty ;-)
No. Camshafts won't change your static compression, but may alter your effective compression. What are you trying to do with this car besides "power as soon as possible"? Cams have characteristics like many other parts other than making power. Please be specific as to what you're trying to handle here.
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