I have a 1991 CRX DX (D15B). I have been having lots of problems, but mainly it won't start and if it does, it backfires out the intake and dies. If it DOES idle, pressing on the gas pedal will actually cause it to die. Checked timing belt timing and it was right on. Decided to do a compression test, here are my results but i'm not entirely sure how to interpret them. Seems like #1 is lower than the rest....possible piston ring or bent valve?

After 5 cranks: 1:139 2:160 3:161 4:153
After 8 cranks: 1:152 2:165 3:173 4:171

Definitely not perfect compression, but is it bad enough to cause engine not to start and plug fouling/timing problem?

ps. I already checked fuel supply and replaced spark plugs, plug wires, and distributor. Exhaust and O2 sensor fairly new. Timing belt and water pump brand new.

Thanks for any advice.

 

first check for spark,take one spark plug out Keep it attached to the wire and see if it arc's when you try to start the car.After that loosen your fuel filter bolt a little put the key in the on position so the fuel pump should be priming,with the bolt a little loose you should see a little gas come out.Best of luck.

 

its not bad enough for it NOT to start. i ran my old engine with worst compression i've ever seen with little problems for months. (After that I just swapped out my engine because it was only for a matter of time til it went out on me haha)

1: 70! 2:120 3:123 4:125

 

wow def should be higher then that....i did a compression test on my d15b2 in my sedan and its all hitting 200 psi at ease.

 

Did you perform your test @ wide open throttle? Most procedures specify to do this @ wot so the engine gets more air to compress for a higher value.

But the true point of this test is to compare all cylinders to each other to see basically if they are doing the same amount of work.

On average healthy stock engines should produce 150 to 190 @ closed throttle and 200+ @WOT and it should be about even across all 4.

 

yes sir what u say is what exactly what i did...unplug my dizzy, unplug my injectors, have my foot on the pedal to have the throttle all the way open and crank...i made 3 revolution for each test for each cylinder

 

I didn't do it WOT. I will try that and see if the numbers come up a bit. The spec is 185 psi at WOT. I assumed also that all the cylinders should be the same. I know its getting fuel into the cylinder because I can smell it in there even though I removed the ECU fuse to do the compression test. I'll check for spark also. Has anyone ever heard of the EACV going bad? I was told by a good (I think) mechanic that this could be the problem. The valve is getting the voltage it needs and the resistance check is good.

Thanks.