Hey guys, I posted a while back about CV joints and got some good help. It's in reference to a 1999 Honda Accord LX 4 Cylinder Auto.

About 2 months ago I went ahead and changed out the CV axles because they were both busted open and clicking while turning. I bought the parts from Autozone. They only had one new one and one remanufactured, so I got them.

All was smooth for a few days, but I noticed the clicking coming back again , now it's doing it any time I stop the car and make a 90 degree turn. I can't really tell which one its coming from (whether its the refurbished one or the new one), but all 4 boots are still intact and look in good shape.

Is there any reason that there would be a clicking while turning that is NOT related to the CV joints? I have half a mind to go to AZ and tell them that their refurb'd axle is a piece of trash and get a new one, but if that doesn't solve the problem I don't want to have done all that work again for nothing.



Cliffs: Replaced clicking CV's, clicking persists. Anything else that would make that noise while turning from a dead stop?

 

Just because an axle is remanufactured doesn't mean it isn't a POS. Remember, a human decided what parts to reuse, how to reuse them and return that part to circulation.

Sounds like you have recieved a bad CV axle/joint.

 

Regardless of why it doesn't work, if it's not working, yes it is a POS. Of course a human had to inspect it this I know, the fact of the matter is that it is not working, and therefore, is garbage to me.

 

Make sure you whipe off all the grease from the axle. You don't want it to be easy when shoving it up the tail pipe of the retard that peddled that POS.

 

Clicking while you're driving straight means it's the inboard joint. Clicking while you're turning means its the outboard joint.

Like mentioned before, it can still be a bad part even if you bought them new.

 

Thank you for helping me narrow it down to the outboards. I'll try and see if I can stand outside of the car with someone else driving it to see which one it actually is and then take that part back. I hope I can actually decipher it.

 

I also had this happen once. it was a bad axle. It was put in at a shop as an emergency, and i didn't ask if it was new or reman.

 

Grab another axle (as a warranty replacement) and put it in. I'm on my 3rd autozone axle, and they all developed play in the outer CV joint and started clunking. I just go in there and keep getting new ones.

 

Do you guys think I have any room to get the New axle at the cost of the remanufactured one? This is a huge inconvenience for me to have to do this again when I work 6 days a week =(

 

They may give you a new one if you pay the difference. I would bet they will only replace it with the equivalent. Just tell them how inconvenient it is if they give you any trouble. ask for the manager.

 

Yeah I'm going to give it a shot. Thanks.

 

good to know. guess i shoulda did a search before starting a new thread. damn noob.

 

This is exactly why i dont like using aftermarket axles in customer cars. Yes, they're cheaper, but you get what you pay for. This is a very common problem, as is fitment issues in older models.

 

Ask for the manager, make sure you get the manager and tell 'em how much of a hassle it is and you might be able to.

 

to be honest with you, everything ive seen thats a duralast product is junk, unfortunately, i have a az radiator, but it busted on me on fridya and they could get it next day, but yea id prefer going to napa myself, also check out rockauto.com they got good prices on parts and you can usually select the brand you want

 

Reman axles are NOT worth it unless you just don’t care about your time. I can get two brand new axles for $170 and not deal with some Autozone/Kragen garbage that’s been rebuilt in Mexico.

I wish more people would stop shopping at Autozone and Kragen; they’re like the automotive parts equivalent of AIDS.