EM1 SUSPENSION BUILD (doing it right)
okay i recently ran into some good luck and ended up with an EM1 that is in MINT condition... and BONE stock. SUPER virgin like the mother mary man
TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE BUT IT IS!!
would like to hear thoughts and experiences on em1 or honda suspension builds...
ive never had anything but koni/gc before im open to any/all input about them.
but i would also like to know what are the best buys out there and what brands are worth spending money on.
HERE IS MY GOAL:
TO BUILD AN AWESOME DAILYABLE EM1 (NOT NESC. DAILY DRIVER) THAT GETS OUT TO HPD EVENTS FREQUENTLY AND UTILIZES AS MANY OEM PARTS AS POSSIBLE/WITHIN MODERATE BUDGET.
DONT WANT ANY BLING (WILL PC ALL LCA'S, BRACES, ETC BLACK AS COPS AROUND HERE LOVE TO HASSLE CIVICS WITH SHINY PARTS).
DONT MIND A SUPER STIFF RIDE AS IT WONT BE AN ACTUAL DAILY DRIVER MORE OF A WEEKEND DRIVER
WIFEY DOESNT LIKE THE VTAKKIN AND BUMPY RIDE AS MUCH AS US LOL.
so lets make a list of what i want to order up:
-COILS
-LCA
-LAB
-SFB
-FCK?
-RCK?
-SUSPENSION BUSHINGS
-STRUT TOWER BRACES
-SWAY BARS
-STEERING WHEEL AND HUB/ETC (WOULD LOVE TO KEEP CRUISE CONTROL) CTR wheel have cc?
-WHEELS/TIRES/SPACERS (right now im on si's with shitty 205 50's)
-SOLID SIDE MOUNTS, FILLED REAR MOUNT, TOURQUE DAMPENER
OKAY WHAT ELSE??
what should i keep in mind or focus on during this part of the build?
also i would LOVE to see pics of super dope slammed, tucked, deep dishy em1's out there. i really like the LOOK of FLUSH fitted coupays these days. haha okay actually i was thinking of ANY track assassins out there who are set up for time attack or what have you.
TOO GOOD TO BE TRUE BUT IT IS!!would like to hear thoughts and experiences on em1 or honda suspension builds...
ive never had anything but koni/gc before im open to any/all input about them.
but i would also like to know what are the best buys out there and what brands are worth spending money on.
HERE IS MY GOAL:
TO BUILD AN AWESOME DAILYABLE EM1 (NOT NESC. DAILY DRIVER) THAT GETS OUT TO HPD EVENTS FREQUENTLY AND UTILIZES AS MANY OEM PARTS AS POSSIBLE/WITHIN MODERATE BUDGET.
DONT WANT ANY BLING (WILL PC ALL LCA'S, BRACES, ETC BLACK AS COPS AROUND HERE LOVE TO HASSLE CIVICS WITH SHINY PARTS).
DONT MIND A SUPER STIFF RIDE AS IT WONT BE AN ACTUAL DAILY DRIVER MORE OF A WEEKEND DRIVER
WIFEY DOESNT LIKE THE VTAKKIN AND BUMPY RIDE AS MUCH AS US LOL.so lets make a list of what i want to order up:
-COILS
-LCA
-LAB
-SFB
-FCK?
-RCK?
-SUSPENSION BUSHINGS
-STRUT TOWER BRACES
-SWAY BARS
-STEERING WHEEL AND HUB/ETC (WOULD LOVE TO KEEP CRUISE CONTROL) CTR wheel have cc?
-WHEELS/TIRES/SPACERS (right now im on si's with shitty 205 50's)
-SOLID SIDE MOUNTS, FILLED REAR MOUNT, TOURQUE DAMPENER
OKAY WHAT ELSE??
what should i keep in mind or focus on during this part of the build?
also i would LOVE to see pics of super dope slammed, tucked, deep dishy em1's out there. i really like the LOOK of FLUSH fitted coupays these days. haha okay actually i was thinking of ANY track assassins out there who are set up for time attack or what have you.
Last edited by hondamanbran; Jun 26, 2010 at 09:56 AM.
If you're going K you might want to think about swapping an EG/DC2 steering rack/crossmember/LCA setup at the same time. It allows for better front engine clearance.
That will affect your choice of suspension bushings as you'll have to get a semi-custom set. I know Suja 1 does it with their hard rubber bushings. This will also affect your choices for sway bars as you'll be looking for a DC2 front at least (if not front and rear) and make sure the rear will bolt to your EK rear LCAs (that should be as easy as chosing the right endlinks). Lastly, this will allow you to run a traction bar if you so desire. Most traction bars will not work with the EM1/EK9 front LCAs.
That will affect your choice of suspension bushings as you'll have to get a semi-custom set. I know Suja 1 does it with their hard rubber bushings. This will also affect your choices for sway bars as you'll be looking for a DC2 front at least (if not front and rear) and make sure the rear will bolt to your EK rear LCAs (that should be as easy as chosing the right endlinks). Lastly, this will allow you to run a traction bar if you so desire. Most traction bars will not work with the EM1/EK9 front LCAs.
Sounds to me like you're going to ruin an otherwise nice car.
First, I would focus on replacing every worn part on the car and doing all of the service that needs to happen (bushings, timing belt, fluids, etc).
Then, I would possibly do some mild engine bolt-ons, like an intake and a header.
I would then focus on suspension. All you need to do is get a nice set of Koni/Ground Controls and a larger rear swaybar.
Then, get some sticky tires. I'd stay with a 15" or 16" wheel.
After that, you should be done. The other BS parts like front camber kits, rear control arms, etc won't do anything significant for lap times.
You won't have spent a wad of money and you also have parts that can be easily removed so the car can be made stock again. The EM1 is getting valuable enough now that doing something stupid to it (like swapping in a K) kills the value of an otherwise nice car.
If you want to swap a K, get a cheap 92-95 hatchcrap or coupe. They aren't valuable and spare parts are cheap and plentiful.
As for this:
You've got to be joking, right?
First, I would focus on replacing every worn part on the car and doing all of the service that needs to happen (bushings, timing belt, fluids, etc).
Then, I would possibly do some mild engine bolt-ons, like an intake and a header.
I would then focus on suspension. All you need to do is get a nice set of Koni/Ground Controls and a larger rear swaybar.
Then, get some sticky tires. I'd stay with a 15" or 16" wheel.
After that, you should be done. The other BS parts like front camber kits, rear control arms, etc won't do anything significant for lap times.
You won't have spent a wad of money and you also have parts that can be easily removed so the car can be made stock again. The EM1 is getting valuable enough now that doing something stupid to it (like swapping in a K) kills the value of an otherwise nice car.
If you want to swap a K, get a cheap 92-95 hatchcrap or coupe. They aren't valuable and spare parts are cheap and plentiful.
As for this:
also i would LOVE to see pics of super dope slammed, tucked, deep dishy em1's out there. i really like the LOOK of FLUSH fitted coupays these days.
Sounds to me like you're going to ruin an otherwise nice car.
First, I would focus on replacing every worn part on the car and doing all of the service that needs to happen (bushings, timing belt, fluids, etc).
Then, I would possibly do some mild engine bolt-ons, like an intake and a header.
I would then focus on suspension. All you need to do is get a nice set of Koni/Ground Controls and a larger rear swaybar.
Then, get some sticky tires. I'd stay with a 15" or 16" wheel.
After that, you should be done. The other BS parts like front camber kits, rear control arms, etc won't do anything significant for lap times.
You won't have spent a wad of money and you also have parts that can be easily removed so the car can be made stock again. The EM1 is getting valuable enough now that doing something stupid to it (like swapping in a K) kills the value of an otherwise nice car.
If you want to swap a K, get a cheap 92-95 hatchcrap or coupe. They aren't valuable and spare parts are cheap and plentiful.
As for this:
You've got to be joking, right?
First, I would focus on replacing every worn part on the car and doing all of the service that needs to happen (bushings, timing belt, fluids, etc).
Then, I would possibly do some mild engine bolt-ons, like an intake and a header.
I would then focus on suspension. All you need to do is get a nice set of Koni/Ground Controls and a larger rear swaybar.
Then, get some sticky tires. I'd stay with a 15" or 16" wheel.
After that, you should be done. The other BS parts like front camber kits, rear control arms, etc won't do anything significant for lap times.
You won't have spent a wad of money and you also have parts that can be easily removed so the car can be made stock again. The EM1 is getting valuable enough now that doing something stupid to it (like swapping in a K) kills the value of an otherwise nice car.
If you want to swap a K, get a cheap 92-95 hatchcrap or coupe. They aren't valuable and spare parts are cheap and plentiful.
As for this:
You've got to be joking, right?
-i pay next to nothing for parts as we have a very big stock of new and used Honda parts, both OEM and AFTERMARKET. so yeah i got a decent aem v2 intake bnib, WHAT headers does every recommend for fattest powerband (possible) stock slugged b16?
-THE CAR HAS HAD OVER $3400 in OEM parts (NO LABOR AS IT WAS A TOYOTA TECHNICIAN'S for 90% of its life). so almost everything is new or damn near, VERY VERY awesome

-im probably throwing some koni/GC's on it this week, while i debate and wait on the coils.
-i really dont like to go any bigger than 15's unless i have to, i like wide 15's.
-no kswap in the near future, for the stated reasons and the obvious one of why **** up a good thing, unless youre that BORED concept. and im not that bored.
-the more i think on it, the more i am convinced that one of my biggest goals here is to stick with as MUCH oem parts as i can. i have always done as much with OEM parts as possible, when it comes to honda's as they are designed well and i get killer deals on the parts that are a plenty.
THANKS for the input i LOVE you guys LOL
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