Any tips on replacing the rear drums and shoes? I've got a set waiting to go on but have never really done it myself.

Any special tools that would make it go a lot smoother?

First question, and a noob one... How to do you take off the drum to access all the goodies inside? I see the two screw holes on the drum itself. What do I need to pull it off?



And please don't reply with "just upgrade to disc" comments. eff you ricer.


Have a nice day

 

Screw bolts into the holes you see. Make sure to do a little on each side slowly pulling the drum off. Make sure the e-brake isn't applied. It takes for f-ing ever to wear out the shoes on a rear drum. Most likely yours are fine. You should get rear discs if your looking to upgrade, paint your drums red and rice it up.

 

^^^^lmoa

 

Buy a Helms manual if you dont have one. Youll need it to look at the pics and see how it goes together. It will probably take you a while on the first try the get it all back together.

 

Rear shoes are pretty easy on a Civic if you know how the parts go together.

If you've never taken a drum brake apart before, you're probably going to have trouble reassembling it. I'd recommend having an experienced friend help you out for your first attempt. Removing the hub and bearing assembly from the spindle makes fitting everything back together much easier but requires a 32mm socket. Make sure to stake the hub nut and to not overtighten it when reinstalling.

To get the drum off, I just smack it pretty hard on the side with my 5lb hammer. Strike it right on the edge where it meets the backing plate. It will usually pop loose and you can slide it off the wheel studs. If the shoes are adjusted a little tight, and/or the drum is corroded onto the face of the hub, and/or the drum has a lip worn into the edge of the wear surface, it will sometimes stick and you'll need to screw two M8x1.25 bolts into the threaded holes on the face of the drum to pop it loose from the hub.

Here's a tutorial for replacing the rear shoes on an '01-05 Civic, which has a similar (but not identical) setup to the '92-00 Civic: http://www.civicforums.com/forums/43...placement.html - Don't follow his advice for adjusting the parking brake though; when installing new shoes, you should always adjust the parking brake using the ratchet mechanism on the brake itself rather than the cable adjuster on the handle inside the car. You want the brake to engage fully after 6-8 clicks of the handle.

 

idk how upgradin to disc makes me a ricer...........???? havin a sleeved poormans type r doesnt make me a ricer cuz i have rear disc, anyways, UPGRADE TO REAR DISC!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Disk brakes are easier to service and just plain look nicer. Apparently the drum brakes actually have better braking power, though you can swap some other calipers and disks on if you have disk brakes.

Anyway, if you put disk brakes on, just swap the hub assembly part and not the whole trailing arm. The bolts that go into the chassis like to snap... And if you don't take the trailing arm off, you don't need an alignment.

 

dont hit the drum with a hammer on a honda youll shatter it. theres two holes with threads on the face of the drum run two bolts in there itll pop the drum off. get yourself a drum brake tool kit. itll make the chance of you loosing an eye less likely. pull off both drums but only dissassemble one at a time so you can use the other as a template. then remove and replace.

 

lol what? They're made from glass?

You can hit them with a hammer. They're made out of the same gray iron as most car companies. If they were aluminum drums, I could see the point in not hitting them.

 

Okay, so a 32mm is needed. I think I have one from removing axels on a different car.

M8x1.25 bolts for the drums themselves if needed I assume.

Well I have the PDF repair manual for these EG civics. But it doesn't say **** about removing the drums. All it says is "remove it" lol.

Well I let the car sit for about 1 year so the brakes are all rusted and corroded. Or else I wouldn't be making this thread.

Are there any special tools needed for doing the stuff on the inside besides pliers?


Thanks for the helpful replies. Keep'em coming. This thread isn't about disc brakes you tards. So take your ricing ethuggin' honda **** else where

 

No special tools needed really. Have a couple cans of brake cleaner on hand and clean the hell out of the assembly prior to taking it apart. Then clean again when it is apart, especially moving parts and the backplate. Having it as clean as possible is a big thing.

Have some good grease on hand as well, use it on the contact pads on the back plate and the "self adjusting" (lol) mechanism.

I can't stress enough clean clean clean the hell out of everything inside the drum.



.

 

Upgrade to disc. only cost about 150-250.
hammer and flathead set it up and tap it till it comes loose. your not gonna damage it chances are that its rusted and bad to begin with.

 

Just take it to a shop so you don't screw around with your daily driver. That at, you can worry about upgrading to larger disc brakes down the road.

 

yes, i have brake cleaner and good grease on hand.

i got the entire brake package for $105. front discs w/ pads and rear drums with shoes. so rear drums will do for now. a rear disc conversion will cost a lot more than my entire brake package itself. so fck off.

it's not my daily driver right now but will be. my mr2 is my dd for the summer.

Do I need any sort of punches to transfer over the pins on the old shoes that hold the ebrake arm?

 

No punches needed. The pins are held on by horseshoe shaped clips, I usually spread them apart with a flat head screwdriver.


U-Clip:

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Yes, I've been reviewing a print out of that page (page 19-29). Thanks.

Well when smart people are unsure, they ask. So, how do I take off the hub?



Thanks for any helpful replies.

 

You don't take the hub off.
there is about 3-5 springs that is holding the shoe together.
remove upper spring, retainer springs, self adjust and lower springs, then the shoes could come off

BTW is your car that high? i see jack on blocks..

 

Me and my friend did this when I first got my EJ8. We used my seat bolts to pop it off and didn't think to just go to an autoparts store to match the bolts for stronger types and snapped one in the drum. Got the drums off, and dissassembled both drums at once. His dad came to help us put them back together (all we did was put the spring in upside down of something). after that we had to heat the drum up to pull the bolt out. That was the only pain. The funny thing was, the guy at the autoparts store said the first time he did drums, he dissassembled them both at the same time too, and this was before we even explained to him that we had done the same thing haha.

 

Okay, so i guess it's gonna be one of those finger cramping repairs doing these drums...?


Yea, definitely blocks and jack. good eye! However, my jack is one of those cheap *** $20 ones. It doesn't get very high so I need the blocks to get it where I wanna be.


I guess these civic drums are a bitch to replace. I help do drums and shoes for a 92 tercel a few years ago and it wasn't like this... stupid hondas (Toyota guy here... see sig).

 

^ Hondas are amazing and extremely easy to work with. Only a Corolla driver could mess up working on a Honda. You should probably give your mom her car back. She needs it for work tomorrow.

/sarc.

 

damn... must've hit a soft spot LOL.

 

Haha, I take any shot I can at Cavvy, Cobalt, Toyota (I respect not ricer Celicas), Eclipse, etc... you just set it up so perfectly.

 

Here is a link
have fun and it's probably easier than a toyota.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/43...placement.html

 

Its so much easier to take the hub off. I've done it both with and without, and it's definitely worth the 3 extra minutes it takes to remove and reinstall the hub (if you're using pneumatic tools).

See the little groove around the edge of the hub nut cover? Just pound a sharp screwdriver into that groove and twist it a little. Repeat several times all around the circumference of the cover to work it loose and eventually the cover will pop out, exposing the hub nut. Be somewhat gentle with the cover as it is easily bent up - although it is not an absolutely necessary part if it does happen to get damaged.

 

BTW I was checking out your build tread, you suppose to use a impact wrench to get those 2 screw out, and if you use a regular screwdriver it will strip most of the time.