I'm having a hard time trying to align and mount the tranny side motor mount and driver side motor mount....back mounts it's already bolted in thought it was easier to bolt that one first. It looks like it needs like another half and inch or more forward to be able to mount the tranny to the motor mount. I'm starting to think I need a different t bracket than the original h22a to be able to work in a eg. I did my search and nothing about the t bracket. Please let me know any info you might have. Thanx

 

what swap kit are you using?

 

From what i remember doing the H22 swap in an EG, it was a bitch getting those in, im pretty sure i went drive.. rear.. and bolted the trans mount in last... but it took a ton of wiggling and **** to get it lined up.. using a strong flathead screwdriver to line up the holes when its close helps too. Oh and i used the Innovative mounts.

 

i had this same problem with my 95 coupe and fitting in my h22a i used the usdm 92-95 prelude t bracket and the mount was about an inch or two out of line if its the bolt in frame rail bracket by innovative like mine i had to unbolt it mate up the bracket and mount and then pushed the motor back and kinda forced the bolts into place through the frame rail idk if that helps but i know how hard it is it took me bout 2 days to figure out

 

should've done what h22eg'z did i did the t bracket first maaaaaaan that makes it alot easier now that i think bout it

 

lol dude i did it every single way you could think of.. tranny first... trans first... drivers first... i hated that part of the swap the most. It will go in.. just remember your bolting in new bushings that don't have a lot of give.. and remember dont torque down all your mounts super hard so you have a bit of wiggle room *except for trans* < just hard to get to later.

 

man if i had had this forum when i was doing my swap.. i went into my h22 in eg blind with no research just h22a swap fell into my lap all i needed was the mount kit. as for the mount like eg'z said it will go in it's just a pain in the ***

 

I'm using some egay brand mounts sad to say! I did the rear t bracket first and that's where I'm stuck! Good to know that it's a pain to fit. It's by far the longest time consuming swap I've done! Any more sugestions you guys might have? I have tried different ways like starting with the drivers tranny then rear and this is the closest I've gotten. So this is the right t bracket? Prelude off the h22a engine?

 

yea the 92-95 bracket.. that's the only one, the other wont work. And honestly the Ebay mounts may be the thing that's F@kin you over post a pic, it might help. GL MAN.

 

have fun lol.
took my friends and i soo long to do this. I mean it wasnt even funny how long it took to get the mounts in and lined up properly. but boy was it worth it in the end.
Good luck.

 

yeah I've been fighting with it all morning to the point where I got really frustrated! thinkin about going back there again! Imma just sell the damn h22 tranny and go h2b much easier swap except all the fabrication!

 

lol there you go.. avoid fighting one mount and spend 1k or so on H2b Mate kit.... just get it done.. lol, your talking crazy talk now.

 

lolol it took me 2 solid days and my friend and me both said screw it just sell it but i can tell you its worth it you won't be dissapointed.. tell the h22 who's boss cuz she's a sassy bitch

 

I too, had a problem lining up the mounts on my h22 eg swap.
I used innovative steel mount, and in my case, the mounts were tad bit longer (half an inch or so) and took me 3 days to get it in. Eventually I used a prybar and strong screw drivers to get it in.

My advice would be following:

1. Use a mount kit from a reputable company that's proven to fit right. People say innovative mounts fit well, but even with that I had to struggle a bit. Can't imagine dealing with some no-name brand with questionable fitment.

2. Don't tighten bolts all the way until you have all the mounts in and bolts installed.

3. Chances are, two out of three mounts would be easy to fit, the last one would be the hardest. What I initially tried was to line up the mounts, so that the bolt for the third one would just slip right in, but that was way too hard. I realized that the third mount's bushing had to be compressed somewhat in one way or another, so after bolting on two mounts and lining up for the third as best as I can, I had to stick a screw driver through the third one in order to change the direction of the inner sleeve for the bolt to go through. Once it was half way in, it wasn't too hard to make the bolt go through the mount.

It's pretty hard to explain without pics, but hope you understand what I'm trying to say.

Good luck.

 

You pretty much need 2 jacks with 3 people to help you get it in... One jack for the front of the motor and one for the back... While those two people are adjusting the jacks the 3rd person has to sit there and push back and forth trying to get that thing to line up... I had the same xact problem with mine. Had a few friends come over and we go it within 10 mins.

 

motor is in!! Got a big 6ft metal bar from a friend and with a helping hand it finally went in..the last mount on the drivers was easy... it was just the tranny side that was a pain. What half shaft or intermediate shaft and axles did you guys use?

 

i used the 92-95 accord H/Shaft swap axles but also some 90-93 axles work if you have the accord intermediate shaft

 

i used Reaxles.. they make a hybrid axle that just fits right in.. never had an issue with them and they never broke. i had a 92-94or95 prelude half-shaft.

 

on the FAQ info h22 into civic here on H-T. It says 90-91 integra axles will fit as long as you run a 90-93 accord axles without any modifications to the drivers side axle? Like adding the preludes inner joint! Has any one done this? Does it work alright?

 

any issues? Did you have to modify them to fit?

 

So I've searched everywhere and I'm having the same issues everyone else is...

I have a JDM H22a with the IM plenum spacers to get rid of the butterfly valves. The car is a 1992 VX.

I have Innovative mounts with prelude T-Bracket.

The front two mounts weren't bad at all and lined up nicely, but the rear mount is proving to be quite challenging. Everything is bolted up loosely. The Intake manifold is hitting the Brake Proportioning valve on the firewall. I don't see anywhere in the forums where someone had to modify/move/relocate these brake prop valves for clearance. The closest I can get the rear T-bracket to the mount is not enough the intake manifold contacts the brake valve. Not good!

I'm curious if anyone else had to relocate the brake proportioning valve to get this to work, or how they were able to get all 3 mounts without stressing them a ton. There's a LOT of stress on the two frame rail mounts when trying to angle the motor back to get the rear mount to reach; I do not feel that it's normal to stress the front mounts this extreme.

IM contacting Brake Prop Valve
When the IM contacts the Brake proper Valve, this is as close as the mounts line up...

 

I'm having some issues and hopefully someone can help out...



1992 Civic VX
JDM H22A with M2B4 Transmission

Prelude T Bracket

Innovative Mounts

I was able to get the front frame rail mounts in without much of a fight. Everything is still loosely in place, nothing bolted down tight. I can't get the rear mount to come close to the t-bracket. In a nice, neutral "happy" state, there's about a 2" displacement between the bolt holes in the T bracket and the mount. If I torque the motor back to try to align the two, the Intake Manifold will contact the brake proportioning valves on the firewall.

I did not read anywhere online where someone doing an H22 swap had to relocate the brake proportioning valves. I'm afraid if I relocate the brake proportioning valves to gain the clearance I need to rotate the motor towards the rear, the front mounts are stressed a LOT and do not look happy.

If I try the rear mount first, I can't line up the fronts at all.

Did anyone else run into this issue?

 

Any one figure anything out? Putting a JDM H22 in and running into the same clearance issues.

 

Yes. I ended up making my own T-Bracket using 1/4" steel plates and angle iron to make gussets to reinforce. I relocated the proportioning valve near the battery area since I had already relocated the battery to the back, so I had to flare my own lines to accommodate the relocation.

Things to note:

1. I used Innovative mounts. Great quality produce. The 85 duro race mounts are loud and vibrate a lot. Even though this is a race car, I wish i went 75 duro. Trust me when I say this; the 85 duro is stiff...
2. For the front two rail mounts, I made 1/2" spacers to LOWER the motor relative to the mounts. This gave my H22 perfect geometry with the hub. Regarding ground clearance, I currently have about 6-1/4" from the bottom of the header to the ground. I plan on lowering the car another 1" or so. Lowering the motor allowed me to get the best possible geometry for the axles, thus I do NOT have any axle binding issues; full steering wheel lock, acceleration, deceleration, no issues at all. Using Raxles...
3. I balanced the motor on the front two mounts (with 1/2" spacers) and used a jack to support the rear of the motor. When I got the motor leveled out, i used cardboard to mock up my custom T-bracket. Lots of test fits/sanity checks to make sure the bracket was going to hold the motor where i wanted it. All in all, I made the bracket in about 4 hours. I don't have any templates, as it would be best anyways for you to do the same for your vehicle.

Pictures for reference:


Motor nested in the bay


Driver Side Clearance.


Rear T-Bracket to Innovative mount (H22-EG)


Custom T-Bracket (fab'd, ready for paint) Made good use of Plug welds as well as seam welds.


Comparison of JDM Prelude T-Bracket to custom T-Bracket

 

Forgot to add: Making a custom T-bracket, all my mounts are happy. No torque or twist on any of them.