UPDATE BELOW - 6/22/10 - new pics

ok, i have a 95 ex f22b1 boosted. recently i had some oil on the turbo(where the filter goes). i pulled the DP and had sludge near where it connects to the exhaust. then i pulled the intake manifold and had some streaks of oil in the runners.

so i decided to pullthe motor today!!! i am considering a rebuild or just some new gaskets and a new turbo for the time being till winter when i plan on either building an f22 or f23 or swapping in a boosted k24.

when i pulled the motor and timing cover and oil pan i noticed oil on the rear and on both sides of the timing cover(and behind and under the timing cover). my oil pan gasket was fried and cracked, valve cover gasket was recently replaced but it was probably leaking before cuz it was hard as hell. also, the gasket on my oil filter sandwich(for my oil line) was bad.

so new gaskets i am thinking of getting-
-valve cover
-front crank seal(and any others arond the timing belt)
-oil pan gasket
-gaskets for the tranny( where the axle and intermediate shaft go in)
the lip on my intermediate shaft that connects to the tranny is bent slightly and there is oil all around there and on the back of my flywheel( and no its not my rear main seal- i recently did that when i did a new clutch/flywheel)

here are some pics - please ask questions or make suggestions!!! thanks

 

Accord is clean.

Its hard to say where its coming from.

 

thanks and thanks!

 

The oil tracking in the intake manifold is most likely from your PCV if you still have one.

The rest of the oil is all over the place so its hard to say where it could be coming from exactly. Before you pulled it you could have cleaned the motor off with degreaser and then ran it a few times checking for fresh oil tracks.

I would do all the maintance stuff and seal while its out, valve cover seals, cam seals, distributor oring, etc... then while your at it throw on a fresh head gasket with h23 arp head studs, might as well while its apart since its cheap insurance.

If the turbo is leaking a little oil, maybe time to send it off for a simple rebuild or if you have a little extra money and its is rough shape... maybe a good time to upgrade.

 

good ideas!! thanks twkdcd595

and i did have a pcv but i was constantly changing the thing so i am switching to a catch can setup

 

hey, nice accord. I would love to see you drop a k24 in this! I dont think it will be too hard. If you get another motor, do take not that I am pretty close to you and have a f22b2 for sale.

we should also meet up this summer. A few of us maryland guys are trying to throw a regional accord meet if youre down..

 

thanks and keep me posted. i just want to get her running again. she isnt my daily driver but very fun to drive.

 

6/22/10
removed head down to the valves. exhaust valves have white deposits on them, and exhaust combustion chamber is black compared to intake side.

tops of number 2 and 3 pistons have excessive carbon - its like a powder and flake type material i can just push around with my fingers














valve seals are going to be installed next, however i want to get the head checked out first. i am going to do a full cleaning on my valves and tops of pistons. i am not sure if i want to dissassemble the block or not. the block seems in good shape. but maybe i am going to change the pistons and rods too. too early to tell - any ideas or suggestions bring it!!!

 

im about to change my headgasket and install headstuds.

do you know if theres an easy way to clean the piston tops?

 

Carb cleaner and a brush, with a little added elbow grease. Rotate the crank so that 2 pistons are too the top then clean them. Then rotate the crank so that the other 2 pistons are at the top and clean. If the engine is still in the car make sure to do an oil change and coolant flush when your done.

 

what ghost said. any feedback on my stuff? this is turning into a build thread - looks like it!

 

Looking for suggestions on your block. Make sure to change out all of the seals while you have it out of the car. If you want to be safe this would also be a good time to check/replace your main and rod bearings.

 

6/23/10
i just tore down my block today. i am confused however about the rod and bearing numbers.
they are as follows
MAIN
1 /// 2 /// 3 /// 4 /// 5
da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95 block side bearing
4 95 a1 /// 2 95 j1 /// 4 95 e /// 4 95 a1 /// 4 95 e

da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95
4 95 e /// 2 95 j1 /// 4 95 e /// 2 95 e /// 4 95 e girdle side bearing
on the block casting it says CCCBC, but my helms says it would say something on the crank but it is like a serial number - its not like what they describe in the book.


RODS
1 /// 2 /// 3 /// 4
da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95
4 95 k /// 4 95 j /// 4 95 k /// 4 95 k pin side bearing

da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95 /// da 95
4 95 k /// 4 95 k /// 4 95 k /// 4 95 k cap side bearing
and they are all stamped J 2

any ideas? i am going to see what my machinist says first. obviously my next step is getting the block cleaned up, bored and honed. also my crank looks great. all the journals look fantastic, but i am still going to have my machinist check it out and possibly polish it.

EDIT - i found new numbers and letters on the crank CCCB and 42343, rod and main respectively