inspecting head, help me look for damage (pics)
Hey, I'm using my old B16 head for a B20 build. I'm trying to find any potential sources of failure before problems arise when my motor is all put together and running.
Few questions about my B16 head... thanks for the helps.
first off.. WTF! Looks like one of my exhaust manifold studs is missing. I probably still have it in a ziploc of parts somewhere, but is this a problem? Can I just screw it back in with vicegrips and bolt my header back on the way it was?

I see some sort of carbon deposit or maybe a burn mark on my valve rocker arms. Does this mean something is damaged or can I just scrub this off with simple green and call it good? This grunge is on a few of the valve rocker arms.

How can I check to see if my valves are seated properly? I want to lap the valves (i'll figure that out later.) Can I just pour some water in the intake/exhaust manifold holes and check for seepage into the combustion chamber around the valves?

And finally... what is the best way to clean up my head and get it ready for the machine shop or re-assembly? There are lots of carbon deposits on and around the head, I'm thinkin simple green and nylon/wirebrushes and maybe some scotch brite action. Is there anything I should be careful of before cleaning the head all up? I have removed all sensors, and plan to re-assemble the head with lots of assembly lube to prevent rust and dirt from fouling things up.

Thanks much HT!
Few questions about my B16 head... thanks for the helps.
first off.. WTF! Looks like one of my exhaust manifold studs is missing. I probably still have it in a ziploc of parts somewhere, but is this a problem? Can I just screw it back in with vicegrips and bolt my header back on the way it was?

I see some sort of carbon deposit or maybe a burn mark on my valve rocker arms. Does this mean something is damaged or can I just scrub this off with simple green and call it good? This grunge is on a few of the valve rocker arms.

How can I check to see if my valves are seated properly? I want to lap the valves (i'll figure that out later.) Can I just pour some water in the intake/exhaust manifold holes and check for seepage into the combustion chamber around the valves?

And finally... what is the best way to clean up my head and get it ready for the machine shop or re-assembly? There are lots of carbon deposits on and around the head, I'm thinkin simple green and nylon/wirebrushes and maybe some scotch brite action. Is there anything I should be careful of before cleaning the head all up? I have removed all sensors, and plan to re-assemble the head with lots of assembly lube to prevent rust and dirt from fouling things up.

Thanks much HT!
if you care about that head I would just take it to a machine shop to have them reseat the valves. The way to test the head is to do a pressure check with the vlaves. Usually they do a leak down test with the block connected, but that could also show blown rings.
It almost looks like that is a high mileage head because of the wear from the cams. Either that or the person used itr or ctr cams and didnt adjust the valves. Just my .02
It almost looks like that is a high mileage head because of the wear from the cams. Either that or the person used itr or ctr cams and didnt adjust the valves. Just my .02
as for missing head stud ... DON'T USE VICE GRIPS ... why not use 2 nuts and use the first one you put on the stud to be a bumper stopper for the second one that you will use to introduce it to the head thread.
just my 2cents ... I want 48 change
just my 2cents ... I want 48 change
yeh that's a given, two nuts, you don't think I have two nuts? I've got three man. I've got nuts to spare.
btw lmao your avatar, my shirt says sinner >.<
bummmmmpweasel has occurred.
btw lmao your avatar, my shirt says sinner >.<
bummmmmpweasel has occurred.
a new stud is like $3 from the dealer
90026-PE0-000BOLT, STUD (8X37)1995DEL SOL3.37
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit
90026-PE0-000BOLT, STUD (8X37)1995DEL SOL3.37
http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com/i...&submit=submit
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i wouldnt even waste your time cleaning it. most any reputable machine shop is going to give it a thorough cleaning before they start and after they are done. i wouldnt waste my time.
adam jeffery
adam jeffery
Get the new stud started in the hole. Thread a nut onto it about halfway down. Then, thread another nut onto it, and run it right up to the first nut.
Now, when you turn the second nut, it will bump into the first nut and not be able to go down any further, thus causing the whole stud to turn. Keep turning until it's in. I learned this dealing with transfer case studs on my winter crapwagon Heep.
Don't use vice grips, you'll eff up the threads.
Dude just take it to any reputable machine shop, they'll clean that ****, feeler gauge your valve's, and probably even replace that missing stud for like $50...
maybe by the time all these ppl put their .02 in you will have 50 dollars!!! :D
Machine shop ftw. I always prefer to use a tap and die set to make the studs virgins when installing the head. Just my 4 cents.
Machine shop ftw. I always prefer to use a tap and die set to make the studs virgins when installing the head. Just my 4 cents.
Oookay, more helpful replies. Thanks to all for participating 
Taking the head to a reputable machine shop would be a stellar idea. However it's not exactly viable... I don't have the cash to spare for that service right now (jobs comin up to fund the new block and parts will pay for the head too methinks)
and how the F do you find a reputable machine shop. There like 2 in the yellowpages, and they don't do port/polishing or anything like that. I'll probably have to send my head over to the neighbor island to get this done up right. Don't forget how small this freakin island is.
yeh two nuts ftw. I was tired and stoned when i wrote vicegrips, i'm sure that's not what i actually meant. i blame the drugs.
I'm going to replace the LMA's before the head goes onto the motor, just general maintenance. For some reason no one mentioned checking out those...
anything else? help me get this head prepped up for the screaming b20 beast.

Taking the head to a reputable machine shop would be a stellar idea. However it's not exactly viable... I don't have the cash to spare for that service right now (jobs comin up to fund the new block and parts will pay for the head too methinks)
and how the F do you find a reputable machine shop. There like 2 in the yellowpages, and they don't do port/polishing or anything like that. I'll probably have to send my head over to the neighbor island to get this done up right. Don't forget how small this freakin island is.
yeh two nuts ftw. I was tired and stoned when i wrote vicegrips, i'm sure that's not what i actually meant. i blame the drugs.
I'm going to replace the LMA's before the head goes onto the motor, just general maintenance. For some reason no one mentioned checking out those...
anything else? help me get this head prepped up for the screaming b20 beast.
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