thread closed!

 

It's most likely going to be you clutch setup not disegaging properly. Try shifting without using the clutch by rev matching your shifts. If It doesn't grind that way then your tranny should be fine. If you don't know how to shift like that. Don't do it on your new tranny.

 

Yeah, sounds like a problem I had a few weeks ago, I could not go into 1st gear and reverse from a dead stop. Bought a new master cylinder and still nothing.
Had 75K kms on my last ACT clutch setup.
Bought and installed an Exedy Stage 1 kit and shifts perfect now.

 

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It's the competition clutch.I had this problem before with a friends motor.Competition clutch and other after market clutch companies don not produce clutches with oem specifications.Try action clutch or better yet exedy.I've never had issues with action or exedy.

 

like others have said, it's the clutch. you can tell looking at that transmission it hasn't been ran. btw what did you pay? i bought one new in the box two years back for $1200 shipped

 

I just bought one on Ebay for $1185 shipped. Waiting for it to come in Monday. Seems like dealers are getting rid of this stock

 

ithinkyourtransmissionisgrindingbecauseyoudontusep aragraphsorperiodstoendyoursentencesjustkiddinglik etheothershavesaiditsyourclutchnotdisengagingyoure anexperiencedtechsonothingcouldhavegonewrongduring theinstall

 

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I thought you would have bled the system completely already since I think I read you say that you got a new master cylinder and slave cylinder?

if you didnt, then definitely look there.

I remember on my first teg (ACT HDSS / ACT Streetlite), there were some funny clutch issues that I thought were related to the new clutch. In reality the CMC and CSC were due to be rebuilt/replaced. It was fine for the OEM clutch, but the added stress the new clutch added was too much for the CMC and CSC. once i replaced those, the pedal effort was much nicer and the weird issues went away.

 

Definitely sounds like a clutch issue. Have you tried adjusting your clutch pedal at all to just try different setups to see if anything works to get the clutch disengaged?

You can bleed the clutch. But it should have been okay previously. Crack it open to see if any air comes out. I won't say more than this, since you say you're a decent mechanic.

Also, 2 1/2 quarts is too much. Don't go over 2.

 

Like the others said. Try your best to adust the clutch settings before you pull out the unit. You can try removing the Clutch boot to inspect the fork for binding as well.

 

I replaced the clutch slave a while ago but not the master, what should i open to check for air the master? also i never adjusted my clutch ever and dont really know how to, so can someone tell me how to do that? im gonna try and bleed the clutch and adjust the pedal once i figure it out. then ill go to try and replace the master cylinder, but how do i know if its failing, i believe it would leak behind the firewall correct?

 

you adjust the clutch via the master cylinder push rod. the part that attaches to your pedal/lever.

yeah, you typically replace the slave and master together. now that you've mentioned that you did it separately, i'm blaming the master...but it could still be something else. you bleed the system from the nipple on the slave, just like you would your brake calipers.

 

crawl under your dash and inspect the area around the clutch master cylinder push rod. if there is any sign of fluid leaking than this might be your problem. if there is no leak than i would suspect the hydraulic portion of the clutch system is fine (might have air in it though). get a friend to pump the clutch while you watch the fork to see how far it is moving.

 

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yep COULD totally be the cause.

 

if the clutch master cylinder is leaking, that is most likely the cause of the grind. the fork probably isnt moving enough .

 

did you grease where the fork/ throwout bearing slides? just throwing some ideas out there. and btw Honda/Acura MTF is freakin garbage. Syncromesh all the way

 

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I'm not sure why yours grinds. You have brand new synchros in there. I have a brand type R trans that put in last year. Picked it up off ebay and it sat in storage until i needed. Last year was it. I have a exedy stage 1 and shifts lift butter, feels like new compared all of the other manuals tegs and civics i drove. Shift smooth and no problems at all. Reused old school flywheel but other than that tranny is minty.

 

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have you checked to see how far the slave cylinder is pushing the clutch fork?
I've never actually measured it to get a numerical value but just compare it against a friends b-series to see if they are the same. 1/2 inch of free play isn't abnormal i think factory spec is like 3/8ths or something, that isn't a problem so long as there is no air in the hydraulic line.

for the clutches in our cars, I always crack the bleeder valve slightly and let the system gravity bleed for a while, then bleed it as you would a brake system. If you determine that there is air in the system then this should fix it.

 

The problem..


Competition clutches are JUNK!!!!!!!!!!

 

FALSE!!!!!!!!!!