I finally got new race tires, but they are rubbing in the back at only 30mph while turning and I know the fronts will at higher speeds. I found the standard Eibach setup http://www.autoanything.com/suspensi...0A2587738.aspx

Someone also suggested this one for me http://www.beaksproducts.com/EK_Quick_Swap.htm

Anyone use these before or have any opinions, I need to get it in before the 27th.

The pic is to show how much my car rolls at speed

 

The Beak's kit is great for the price. I wasn't aware that they offered everything together like that. The ITR bar will help exceptionally with your body roll situation, and the Beak's will prevent subframe tearout. IMO much better than the Eibach kit. Are you still running stock shocks/springs?

You can get the swaybar directly from Acura for like $74, but you'd still have to buy the other parts. I pieced my kit together that way. Here's what I got:
USDM ITR bar: $74 from Delrey Acura
ASR brace: $179 from jhpusa
Blox nonadjustable EJ/EM1 endlinks: $30 from jhpusa
Energy suspension D brackets: $15 from Summit.

Total: $298, plus a little shipping. The ASR brace will help with chassis flex, whereas the Beak's subframe reinforcement won't, so there's a bit of an advantage with the ASR. Beak's also offers a rear lower tiebar that does the same thing, but would cost you more in the end. Either are good solutions... your choice.

I'll have to see if I can dig up some before/after pictures of my car's roll. I know I've got some.

 

Found it.

Here's my tail without the ITR bar/ASR combo:


And here's with:


I'm on Eibach sportlines with Koni Reds. Stock EX front sway.

 

Yeah I'm running Tokico Illumina's on stock springs. I bent my frame being a dumb teenager >.> and the bend is in the front wheel well so I can't get it lowered. Straightening it out and getting new springs is on my to do list but will be way more expensive and time consuming than this fix

Also I'm guessing your on the aftermarket springs in both? It doesn't look like theres much difference in how close the outside wheel well is to the tire

 

advice, get a set of coilover sleeves, and don't drop it. the roll is also coming from the fact that you have soft springs. get some pretty high rates, like 400-500lbs springs. that will help.

this is not to say don't get the rsb, get that too, when you have enough $$$

 

Which will reduce the roll more

 

some say higher spring rate, some say sway bar, but it is called a sway bar for a reason.

here's how my car sat, no rsb, cheap ebay springs, and koni spss3 shocks,



how it looks in the turns,



imop, get the sway bar. but without the springs, you won't be competitive in ST

 

It may not look like that much of a difference from outside, but appearances can be deceiving. It's not the compression of the inside wheel that matters so much as the unloading of the outside wheel. Unfortunately, you can't see that in the picture, but you should be able to tell much less of an angle across the back bumper, indicating that it lifts the outside wheel much less than before.

The inside wheel should compress hard no matter what sway you're running, when you're throwing it as hard as I was. What matters is that there's less body roll, thus increasing grip across all 4. Believe me, from the inside, it feels like a completely different car now. It's much more tossable, I've gained 5-10mph on most corners, and I no longer bottom out the wheels on super tight stuff.

That said, yes, I'm running aftermarket springs on all 4, and I can tell you that they make at least as much of a difference as the swaybar, and probably MORE of a difference. Ultimately, you should get your frame problem fixed and lower it.

Too bad you don't have access to a hydraulic puller. I've screwed around with bent stuff on my Jeep before, and you'd be surprised how quickly that crap can be fixed sometimes. If you have a good point to connect it, and a large tree, you might be able to straighten things yourself somewhat, but that's iffy in a Civic.

 

Lol .1 seconds behind the two guys my age running Mazda 3's with race tires and suspension, while I'm on falken-912's there are two subie RS's that are a couple more seconds ahead of us tho.

How fast were you going in that pic -again the main reason I'm needing a sway bar is to stop the tires from rubbing- and I can't tell if your tires stick out from your well or not. My new tires are 205/50 15's and they stick out beyond the body

 

have you rolled the rear wheel well ? fairly easy ,extremly cheap they even do it on cop cars . but springs and swaybars will make a world of differance

 

race tires? like hoosier, or hancook? in ST? or do you mean re11, and star spec?

what size rim are you running? the 912's aren't that wide, unless you're running a narrower rim, which will cause it to balloon out?

 

Holy crap thats alot of body roll.


I would reccomend a bit bigger rear bar, than the eibach. Like a 22mm and up.

But higher spring rates will do much more

 

The pic has my old Falken 912's that are on 14's the new tires that I'm having trouble with are Kuhmo XS 205/50R15 They are on 15x7 rims. I don't want to roll the wheel wells and there is no bar in the back right now. Does anyone have a quantitative way of measuring how much roll will be reduce by how thick the bar is?

And by race tires I mean ones competitive in ST. Not sure which ones they are running exactly tho.