94 Honda Accord LX - Stalling when idle/engine shaking hard
I hope I am posting this thread in the correct section...sorry in advance if I'm not. I did some research as well and found a few possible results for what I am experiencing...but I am hoping to get some quicker responses possibly from some people here...
So here's the situation. Just did a major workup to this vehicle which I got relatively cheap off a buddy of mine...94 Honda Accord LX, 2.2 (non vtec) SOHC...put everything back together and finally got fuel/spark etc...but the problem is that it won't stay idle...the engine just dies basically and at a very low idle when my foot is on the gas pedal, the engine shakes pretty violently...I'm very close to having this car on the road after fixing so much stuff up...(I think it's something probably really silly like a timing issue or a hose that might not be connected somewhere...I'm not really sure)
Please Help...
Thanks,
Joe
So here's the situation. Just did a major workup to this vehicle which I got relatively cheap off a buddy of mine...94 Honda Accord LX, 2.2 (non vtec) SOHC...put everything back together and finally got fuel/spark etc...but the problem is that it won't stay idle...the engine just dies basically and at a very low idle when my foot is on the gas pedal, the engine shakes pretty violently...I'm very close to having this car on the road after fixing so much stuff up...(I think it's something probably really silly like a timing issue or a hose that might not be connected somewhere...I'm not really sure)
Please Help...
Thanks,
Joe
Ok...firing order is 1,3,4,2...here's what happened...bought the car about 8 months ago off a friend's father (his old car or whatever)...New(refurbished) cylinder head/head gasket, new camseal, new thermostat/gasket. new water pump/gasket, timing belt, serp belt, sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, new distributor cap & rotor, o-ring, new gaskets on the manifolds (intake/trottle body), new fuel filter, new oil filter, obviously new oil, flushed most of the antifreeze out and replaced it with a half and half mix, new oil pressure switch, new coolant temp sensor on the left of the cylinder head, new air filter...Completely removed and cleaned: oil pump/new gaskets, fuel rail & injectors, valve cover/new gasket, oil pan/new gasket, oil dipstick, strainer in oil pan, timing belt covers upper and lower...etc...
Basically the whole thing was covered in oil because the timing belt went(was missing like 4 inches of teeth), which then led the the valves on the head getting bent, which was a completely separate issue from the overall oil leak that this started with in the first place...so I had a buddy who knows his stuff come by and help me with the timing belt and torquing the head bolts down to the specs in the manual and online...he also had to adjust the valves on the new head cause it was sent unadjusted...
Once I get it started everything is fine...even when I open it up out on the highway it was solid and felt good under my foot like the belts were nice and tight and there was some new power underneath...however, once I start coming to a stop, it starts to really start shaking and the only way I can keep it from stalling is to pop it into neutral and have my left foot on the brake and rev the gas at the same time...once I come to a complete stop the engine basically starts to 'put,put,put,put' then stop. I also noticed when I did get it to idle at one point by really slowly taking my foot off the gas, the engine shakes like crazy and I know the engine mounts are all on there good as we went over them with a 1/2" impact...in addition I also noticed when I put my hand in front of the tailpipe the air flow was also coming out in a 'put,put,put..' pattern and not very smooth at all...
So...could I have simply missed a vacuum hose near the back of the throttle body by the idle air control valve/does that need to be replaced maybe? Is it possibly a timing issue with the distributor, and I should loosen the bolts and move it around a little to see if it stays idle or helps adjust it? Did I plug in the wires from the wire harness in the back of the throttle body into the incorrect sensors by chance? Does the ignition timing need to properly be reset and then corrected with this "light tool" that my buddy was talking about? Ideas?
I thank you all for your help so much...any guidance helps...
Basically the whole thing was covered in oil because the timing belt went(was missing like 4 inches of teeth), which then led the the valves on the head getting bent, which was a completely separate issue from the overall oil leak that this started with in the first place...so I had a buddy who knows his stuff come by and help me with the timing belt and torquing the head bolts down to the specs in the manual and online...he also had to adjust the valves on the new head cause it was sent unadjusted...
Once I get it started everything is fine...even when I open it up out on the highway it was solid and felt good under my foot like the belts were nice and tight and there was some new power underneath...however, once I start coming to a stop, it starts to really start shaking and the only way I can keep it from stalling is to pop it into neutral and have my left foot on the brake and rev the gas at the same time...once I come to a complete stop the engine basically starts to 'put,put,put,put' then stop. I also noticed when I did get it to idle at one point by really slowly taking my foot off the gas, the engine shakes like crazy and I know the engine mounts are all on there good as we went over them with a 1/2" impact...in addition I also noticed when I put my hand in front of the tailpipe the air flow was also coming out in a 'put,put,put..' pattern and not very smooth at all...
So...could I have simply missed a vacuum hose near the back of the throttle body by the idle air control valve/does that need to be replaced maybe? Is it possibly a timing issue with the distributor, and I should loosen the bolts and move it around a little to see if it stays idle or helps adjust it? Did I plug in the wires from the wire harness in the back of the throttle body into the incorrect sensors by chance? Does the ignition timing need to properly be reset and then corrected with this "light tool" that my buddy was talking about? Ideas?
I thank you all for your help so much...any guidance helps...
after doing a good tune up if it needs it disconnect the vacuum line from the EGR valve see if it is stuck open if it opening because a failure of an upstream component it will cause the engine to act like it has a vacuum leak at idle
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jerryjike
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Jun 19, 2018 03:46 PM




