I talk to a shop about tuning my car once I have finished installing my stage 2 cams. The shop told me to make sure I degree down my cams. Is That really necessary? Couldn't they just tune it using the adjustable gears to find a where the car likes it?

 

They can do that in conjunction with the partial and WOT tuning of the car through your management. Please be aware that there will be an increase in tuning costs that may have been given to you as an estimate. They also want to make sure that you're responsible for the piston-to-valve clearances that you had when installing the cams. If there were some "quick degree" points to those cams, now is the time to use those so you can get to the tuner safely. If not, best to trailer the car there.

 

I'm stalling the stage 2 skunk2 cams so it would propabley be best if I take it on a trailer. I know for a fact that it will not idle well. Do you think it would be ok to drive to the shop or no?

 

IMO it is very important to degree the cams and check v2v and p2v to make sure you have enough clearance.

 

how do I check the V2V clearance and P2v clearance?

 

http://www.c-speedracing.com/howto/claymotor/clay.php

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...t=P2V+checking

 

I drove my car to the tuner shop just the next day I had my cams in and broken-in. It wouldn't idle at all, so I adjusted the TB butterfly to where the engine won't die on me everytime I'm idling.

I'm assuming you're gonna be running the Tuner series stage 2 cam?

 

No I have the Pro Series Stage 2 there much more aggressive so I don't think I should drive it.

 

You should be ok driving it at partial throttle at low rpms. Do NOt Go into vtec. That's were you might have issues with v2p clearances if you haven't clayed your motor.

 

Or what do you guys think?

 

I have heard that before what does it mean to clay your motor?

 

Claying your motor will tell you how much clearance you have from the valve to the piston's valve relief.

I used the quick setting that Skunk2 gave me, and drove it like that to my tuner that day. Brian told me that its +4*I, 0*E and I found out from All_Motor(user herer) that it's actually the other way around(0*I, +4*E). All_Motor also said that I might've bent some valves but my engine is running fine though. I'll get my engine leakdown test done soon here though. But now my tuner had my quick settings at -1*I, +3*E. Just make sure there's 3-4 Degree separation between the two cam gears so there won't be any tight V2V clearance.

Where did you have your cam gears set at before you got the motor started up?

 

Real quick.. Could somebody elaborate and tell me what it means to degree your cam's in? I've heard it, asked and never got a response..

 

That means degreeing your cams using adjustable cam gears.

 

hes a mod.. i imagine he was kidding lol

 

Lol. No seriously I'm not kidding. Just because I'm a moderator doesn't mean I know everything in the world.

I understand adjusting the cam gears, I just didn't understand why it's called something else.. You all got me with that terminology.

I'm here to learn too.

So some cams need to be degreed in just so you can start the engine, etc.. They can't be set at 0,0?

 

Not all cams use oem centerline.......

 

in other words it is the process of synchronizing the camshaft with the crankshaft. you want to make sure the camshaft is in the right position before you start making any adjustments

 

Thanks

 

not this...