Car is a 96 Accord DX, 2.2l Automatic.

I bought the car with a bad transmission, although it was drivable. I drove it for a while and noticed that it had a whirring/light grinding noise that began at about 25 mph and increased in volume progressively with speed.

I had assumed that since it had a bad transmission that it was related. After replacing the transmission the sound was still there, so I looked a bit further.

I pulled both wheels off and checked the obvious suspension tightness, etc. Nothing feels loose or has any signs of major wear.

I'll try to explain the noise a bit further.

It begins at 25 mph and gets louder from there. It is quite loud at freeway speeds, enough that it is hard to hear yourself speak.

It is primarily a whirring noise that transitions into a grinding noise when turning right, which traditionally would indicate a bad drivers side wheel bearing.

The whirring noise also transitions into a grinding noise under heavy braking.

When taking a sharp left turn the sound is almost entirely whirring, without grinding.


Everything pointed to a bad drivers side wheel bearing, so I went a head and replaced it today. Got everything back together and the sound is exactly as it was before. I haven't replaced the passenger side bearing yet, but I want to get some opinions before I throw down another $75 for a bearing.

What else can cause the symptoms that I am experiencing? Can brakes do this? Can the CV axles?

Any other simple road tests or jackstand tests I can do to help pin down the culprit?

Also I've already checked for the splash guards rubbing as well as the rotor shields.

Thanks for your help

 

Call me nuts but put it up on jackstands (securely! And use wheel chocks!) and take it for a 'drive'. be careful as it'll "accelerate" really fast (only resistance is weight and friction of driveline). Have a brave partner point out where the sound is coming from.

 

Check your tires. Rotate front to back.

 

The car has nearly new tires, but I'll rotate them anyway.

Can anyone confirm whether or not it is ok to drive without a load on the tires when the car is on jackstands?

I've always heard that it can damage your transmission to put it in drive while on jackstands or a lift.

 

you can check the bearing by jacking the car up. grab the top of the tire and pull and push it. if there is movement you have a bad bearing.

id check your brakes. you could have a dust shield or something rubbing. could also have a caliper jammed or something.

 

Where did you here that from? It is perfectly ok to run the car in drive on jacks. We do it on a lift on a regular basis here at the shop to diagnose.

 

Just a quick update.

I put the car on jackstands and had my wife put her in drive and spin the wheels at 15 mph or so.

I then used my mechanics stethoscope and listened to various suspension components. The entire passenger side of the suspension was noisy and significantly different from the drivers side. On top of that, I could physically observe the CV axle displacing slightly in the hub at the same frequency as the noise was being generated.

So the passenger hub is now at the shop getting a new wheel bearing installed. I'm gonna be pissed if this doesn't fix it finally

 

did you check to see if the bearing was bad? if it wasnt then you just spent money you didnt need to.

 

Problem solved.

For future searchers, this goes to show that the typical rule of thumb, that turning right and noise indicates bad left bearing may not always be the case.

 

my issue sounds very similar but not sure if it is the same... I get a sound but if I am turning right it makes a noise (only happens when turning right) almost like that of a break pad letting me know it is low, but I just changed them out last month so I know its not that. The noise stops if I apply the breaks while accelerating so I was thinking it could be breaks still but this sounds like my issue. Any insight is helpful folks, Thanks!

 

I'd like to say thanks for this thread. I had the exact same experience.

Sounded like pass side wheel bearing, replaced it. No better. Feared poor install. replaced again. no improvement.

Replaced drivers side wheel bearing.

Problem Solved!!!

Lesson, 1995 accords act opposite than usual with regard to front wheel bearing noise.

 

Might as well, while youre in there, so ahead and do both sides. The bearins themselves arent really expensive. Just agrivating installing

 

For $75 a bearing, you could buy the bearing and hub assemble together for $85 both sides at AM Auto. Many have used them and happy with them. No pressing out and in of the bearing.

 

But... but... that takes all the joy out of the install[/sarcasm]

For future searchers, and easy way to check which wheel bearing is shot;

Place parking brake on.
Raise one of the drive wheels off the ground.
Leave the other side on the ground.
Start car,place it in gear and let the engine idle the wheel along.
*With an open diff and the other wheel on the ground the free wheel will actually be spinning twice the speed of what is indicated on the speedometer. So be careful around it and do not allow the wheel to spin to fast. Don't let the wheel spin faster than an indicated 30MPH on the speedo as that wheel is doing 60mph.*
Check both sides for noise and sounds.
The noisy side is the fubar bearing.

 

Hi,
I just had a service A13 on my 2013 civic sedan on Oct 9, and since the evening of the 10th I have noticed a whine or grinding sound while driving. It comes from driver side and I think rear. It stops while in a left turn. I had to replace the rear brake calipers in 2013. Any ideas on this one

 

Idea, don't hijack and a 15 year old thread to boot.