I know you an use the MSD box and by pass the ICM but i don't have much faith in MSD and the OEM ICM has died on me more than once probably due to heat.

Is there a way to bypass the ICM with MSD inline?

thanks

 

you can run a summit digital box and use the ignitior stil. the digital box takes the load off the ignitor so they dont heat up and they burn out. or step it up to a m&w ignition which i think gets rid of the ignitor. or run an msd distributor and extrernal ignitor.

now that im thinking about it im curious if just taking the ignitor out of the dizzy and extending the wiring to get it out of the heat environment would help

 

I like the summit digital boxes. they are actually Mallory Digital Hyfiire systems. They can't be beat for the price. I have them in both my NA and Turbocharged application. I've gone throw a few internal coils myself in the distributor. This was a great way around it.

 

Thanks for the reply guys. Car made an outstanding 452 hp on pump gas yesterday on the fresh build and potential for more but the msd was breaking up a bit up top so id like to get away from anything msd. The stock i know is good for 900 hp but i blew the internal coil before i started the project so that is why i went with msd to begin with.

The summit digital box sounds like a nice options but i don't like the fact the ICM still needs to be there. Id like to get rid of it completely. M&W has an external ICM have any of you ran one of these? How does the Summit box get wired in with the ICM and take the load off of it? Is the ICM still there just for the tach signal?

Also since you mentioned running the ICM outside the cap would help i wonder if that is a possibility as well and if anyone has done it b/c heat is really the biggest enemy of the ICM.

 

We did an MSD external Coil and removed the internal coil completely. The MSD cap and the external wire that went to the external coil. M&W10 is also a good option, but don't know your budget, so that may or may not be an option.

After using an MSD External coil, Digital box (Mallory) and removed the internal coil, the spark has been fantastic.

 

Pete the problem im having is the ICM, I'm running 6A box with SS external blaster coil and I have not had any issues with the SS blaster coil. The issue is with the ICM which is still there regardless if i use a 6A or Summit box.

Is the Summit box (Mallory) that much better then the MSD 6A? To me they are all pretty much the same and like you said they just stamp their name on it. Running the Summit box just basically replaces the 6A box but it does not get rid of the ICM. Unless i suppose you use the trigger wire from the ECM and hook it up directly to the 6A or Summit box.

Are you running the trigger directly to the Summit box and bypassing the ICM? or did you keep the ICM still with the summit box?

 

Also budget is not an issue ive already spent a fortune on the car so a little more to make the ignition bullet proof is worth it but only if its reliable unlike the MSD stuff.

 

Is this even possible?

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...ght=bypass+icm

 

if money isnt an option the get your self a m&w pro10. i think t1 sells a whole kit for b series ready to go. thats your best bet on a honda ecu based tuning solution. if your running a stand alone then there are more options and cop is the way to go

i think there is a way to put a resistor inline to trick the ecu to think the ignitior is still in place but its been years since i read that post so who know how well it works or if even.

 

I believe the M&W pro 10 is the way to go especially since it does get rid of the ICM. How reliable is this unit? I would hate to waste this money on something that is not refined and polished. I'm running S300 on mine.

 

Actually, the SCI and MSD 6A were analog ignitions while the Summit/Mallory are digital so that they can achieve better signal (so I'm told, and have experienced... I'm not a guru on this) But I did notice a significant difference in heat and better efficiency on my spark plugs.

I used an external coil and removed the ICM entirely and rerouted the wires to run on an external coil. The only thing I used from MSD, was a distributor cap that was made to have an external coil
http://www.spdweb.net/knowledge-base...nition-install

I used the positive and negative control wires ( I believe they are tied to the ECM) and not an independent cam trigger, since most Hondata users use the ECM as the signal for spark.

MSD is NOT the same as Mallory. They are different companies. MSD typically has better casings and the cost is there, unlike the Mallory systems, but for your purpose, they have a big track record and work fine. I personally have found no need for an M&W10, but that's just me. I've had them for several years, and never had a problem. Even saved myself a few bucks on new plugs all the time because of the better effficency

 

like shodan says the summit unit will work fine but the pro-10 will work without question too and is a more powerful unit. there tired and true units.

 

There's not a lot of detail there about the wiring inside the distributor. A bunch of us want to know for sure. Will the MSD (or Mallory) box fire at the correct time with the proper dwell and trailing edge triggering (or is it leading edge?) by just running the lead from the ECU to the trigger wire on the box, or do we still need the trickery coming out of the OEM Honda ignitor to make things fire properly?

 

you take the positive and negative coil wires that come off the ignitor and extend those to the digital box.

 

Thanks. That's how I have mine set up now. I'm wondering if the diagram shown in the link from jetspeedz's post really works. It shows the complete bypass/removal of the ICM (ignitor).

 

My understanding is you need a 1k ohm resister to the ECM between the trigger wire or it will set off the fault code. This info came from Jeff Evans.

 

I took Shodan's recommendation and the Mallory setup works beautifully. The ignition driver doesn't even become hot anymore, which definitely means it takes the load off the ICM. For ignition parts, I like to run a setup that is easily replaced and always in stock at local vendors if needed urgently. The Mallory gets a huge thumbs up.

 

I'm gonna fork up the money and get the M&W Pro 10 since its bullet proof and no ICM in any way. Its the way to go for high hp setup and good spark on high boost.

 

Good. Glad you've made a decision. In case you can't get any replacements for the M&W, The Mallory is fine for both High HP Turbo and NA projects. Tony the Tiger and I have been using this method since '99

 

Exactly. Not much "wiring" inside the distributor to worry about.

 

Thanks Pete for the help and info again. Ill keep the Mallory in mind. Also going to replace the SS blaster coil with Crane ps92. Is there an alternative to the MSD dist cap that also has an external coil option? I have been able to find one

 

I know you're pretty anti MSD, but for the distributor cap, that is the best option. Really.

 

Actually i have never had a problem with MSD and used it all the time. Its just this time i think it was the source of the problem so i want to get away from it but really i just want to avoid having a ICM b/c i don't believe they hold up at all from the heat and the small heat sink they have is a joke.

The issue im facing now is Hondata recommends using Resistor spark plugs while M&W specifically state in their manual to use Non-Resistor plugs. I know if i ask Hondata they stick to their post and will say the same so ill ask Tony @ T1 and see what he says and contact M&W as well

 

I think you're over complicating this a tiny bit, but I understand you want to make sure you're thorough.

 

I'm running BKR7E right now which is resistor based and you may be right but i just want to be sure before spending money on the M&W kit and finding out it does not play nice with the S300 b/c of spark plugs. I'm sure the resistor plugs will be fine. Ignition is just such a pain b/c of EMI and RF if one thing is out of wack the whole system gets pissed