My personal vehicle, just so you know.


Recently switched cams to the pro2's and also, switched to eCtune from cromepro.

I did some low cam tuning this morning and from 2-7800rpms i'm holding a good 12.8-13.3 AFR..
The car pulls retarded w/o vtec..
Here's my problem, When i engage vtec, it seems to only like to stay in the 6000rpms range( meaning anywhere in the 6k range, 6300,6400,6500) and it engages smoothly, but it doesn't pull as hard as the low cam, which i find weird.. AFR as it stands on the high cam seems to be coming out to about 13.1 and holding pretty steady..
I have the gears currently set at +2 exhaust / 0 intake... maps are clean and the car feels great, i'm only revving it to 9200rpms right now.. and like i've stated in my previous post, it does create positive manifold pressure around 8grand, which is kick ***, but it just doesn't seem to feel like it should.


Thoughts? I can post some maps if needed.. i dont wish to post a lot cause well, i dont wanna give away all my secrets, but i'm looking for advice on tuners or users of the pro2's..just some insight, i'm not looking to really replicate any gear settings.. just information.

 

Also , if you care to know, mildly tuned p30 ign maps are being used,..tuning wise its pretty dead on, i'm looking to see if i should raise vtec to 6800 or 7k, or maybe think of something else..if i go anymore advanced on the exhaust, i get "Some knock".. remember i'm shorting the power stroke if i advance the exhaust.. i can retarded the intake but that will retarded my timing... and ya.. so any advice, nobody knows everything, this is why i'm asking.. just to see if anyone has any ideas.

 

just wondering why you cant just reset the timing after setting the intake cam back a degree?

 

DFE should be great help with this, he was helpfull to me. FYI both mine and d-robs tunes are posted the file sharing site that whoever did a while back.

 

Well they did say that the Pro series cam has seamless vtec transition so you don't "fell" the vtec kick anymore...maybe that is what you are looking for that is deceiving you. You could also try the Tuner3 cams, as they worked wonders on my buddy's B20 setup.

 

Are you tuning this on the street vs a dyno? A dyno would show you where to set your VTEC engagement and if the car is actually lagging a little in the 6000rpm range. I know dyno time costs money and times are tight for lots of people but they are great tuning/diagnostic tools in situations like this. Do you know if Skunk says the cams should be seperated by 4 degrees, if they mean crank or cam degrees? I know you spoke to Brian about this.

 

Brian and I had a pretty good 30-40 min in depth convo about this..

Brian specifically told me that it should be 4 degrees seperation via crank.
Pro series gears use 1 degree = 1 cam degree.. 90% of the cam gears out there usually use the 1 degree = 2 cam degree system.. With that said..
On the last tuner2's i had +2 intake / - 3 exhaust , i was trying to compensate for some milling, GE 3layer hg, and 050'' taken off the head, the block is flat and checked, so nothing but a slight resurface was done... I "lost" my digital timing light, so i kindof just threw my dizzy back to where it was on the last setup.
I've have changed tuning programs since the last time i tried +4 on the exhaust, i went to ectune who's dwell ign and low/high cam ign tables are dead on and more in depth then crome and also, more accurate... I took brians advice and went to 0 on the intake and +2 on the exhaust.. and the car seems to like it...but i believe there's still so much more....if i go +4 on the exhaust, i shorten the power stroke and i start to run into alot of knock problems..brian said these cams will like vtec anywhere between 6-7k..with that said, i did tune the low cam all the way to 7500rpms before it started to drop off..From there, i'd engage vtec at 5k, and tune the high cam all the way to 9300rpms currently now.. where the high cam really started to take off, and the low cam kindof started to fall off i'd cross change the maps and i'd engage vtec from there.. My tunes on the street have been proven many times, specially on my motor that its almost the best you can get.. i tune some of the ign on the street as well, the dyno i'd use for cam gear tuning, specially on bigger cams, but my street tunes are pretty dead on, specially with the new program...

I just wanted to see what others were running, the cams tonight , seem to be working well.. I also fixed a slight, offset problem as i melted a alternator wire..and wasn't getting the correct voltage.

 

I'm pretty sure the pro2's are the best i can go , aside from the m24x or the pro3s.

The "vtec" xover is very smooth, its VERY Loud and it really comes on strong..its not a like OMG VTEC BBQ Thing.. the pro2s are exactly what i'm looking for.. its just seeing what others are running

the pro2's and pro3's are pretty constant on gear settings universally.

 

quick question.. what engine?

 

Maxxed out b20vtec..

13.0cr

 

He's running a 2L

 

btw how have you been, i know we haven't really spoke in awhile..hows everything going.

 

I'm in the middle of swapping my ported GSR head and performer X intake manifold on. I just finished port matching the intake this weekend and I'm adjusting the valves now. Hopefully if all goes well with scheduling, I'll be driving down to see D-Rob at IMW around the end of the month and we'll be doing a full tune on my M22x cams to see how much we can get out of them. Then we'll be installing some pro 2's and doing direct back to back tests and posting the results. Should be fun, I'm looking forward to it.

 

I expect it to be well..neptune?..

 

So you've got the compression for these cams.. My buddies got these cams in his b18c5 and i'm actually debating on putting these in my b18c-r gonna wait and order everything (valvetrain)

I've rode in his type-r and it's nasty man.. vtec sounds amazing..

*edit nvm..he's running pro 1's.

 

Seems like alot of people are running the Tuner3's now with great results. A year or two ago, I couldn't find much info on them at all lol.

 

I have Hondata S300.

 

....the pro2's , i'm not complainning just looking for some more insight.


i'm.. pretty much loving every aspect of the low end on these cams..the car is a rocket from a dig..

 

I agree that your tuning needs to be on a dyno.

 

Yes, Dyno tune that baby definately!
Thats also the best way to determine your crossover(I know you now that).

 

You really need to get a timing light on that car... especially after that cam change. You can't tell me you don't know a single person that owns a timing light.

The timing values you have could be skewed a good bit and you would never know it without checking it. I think that is the FIRST thing you should do and worry less about the damn cam gear settings without a dyno.

 

Has anyone compared tuner 3s to pro2s on the same motor?

 

On my vehicle the gain on low cam is nuts (20whp 15ft/lbs over the stock low cam) so you really feel the pull, my vtec is set to just after 6k so the engagement is smooth but the bump in power is minimal till just after 7k so the pull into vtec isnt that strong but from 7.5k-9k it pulls back to a 20whp gain

This is on a 12:1 B16 though, but I hope it helps

 

I actually had come across a guy on a local forum who was going to allow me to use his, since mine was stolen.

I've been tuning cars since i was 19( i'm 26) now.. so trust me, i know dyno tuning is a must.. I've always street tuned cars before going to the dyno, i'd used dyno time to tweak the gears and timing...and not have to spend alot of time on the fueling side because basically the majority of the tuning has been done. I've been tuning for quite awhile, and believe me, i know what your getting at, however that still doesn't help me..

I was looking at just comparisons , i like to study maps, specially since i switched tuning programs.. Cam gear settings matter a shitload more right now because of the cams.. p2v is not a concern and wont be.. since its pro2's its v2v on this motor, i'm not too concerned because, I used stock sized valves.. however.. i just wanted a good place, i daily drive this car as well, so its not like i can set them to 0/0 and be on my way.. Dont reply like your talking to a moronic person because you aren't.. and you know that.

Timing issuse should be addressed shortly however, thats not a problem i'm having.. plugs are almost perfect on idle and WOT runs.

 

The way i've set my cross overs in the past on my cars and other cars i've tuned has worked very well, i went to the dyno on the last set of cams, and didn't even get a chance to finish tuning my car because i ran into slight problems...however, the dyno plot was smooth, and very very good for just a street tune..
I do plan on taking it to the dyno..after i work out the kinks on the street, it saves money, time and less hassle.. most people dont think about that, but street tuning before dyno tuning would probably save people 2-3 hours of dyno time..

Setting your WOT fuel and cleaning up your ign maps allows you to try other things while not having to worry about cleaning up a shitty basemap while on the rollers...